RyanAutry

Starting my car with the turbo kit for the first time tonight.

Stock b16a/RevHard Turbokit

1.) What kind of oil do I put in the motor?
2.) What do I gap the plugs at?
3.) How do I "prime" my turbo?
4.) What is the "break-in" procedure?
5.) My Downpipe is not completed yet. It doesn't have an o2 bung, "yet". Can I start the car without the o2 Sensor pluged into the exhaust?
6.) Can I drive the car to a muffler shop w/o the o2 sensor pluged in?
7.) My Hondata Map is programmed for a JRSC w/440's. Theoredically it should start the car with the 440's installed, right?


8.) Is there anything I'm missing

Thanks,


Soon


Modified by RyanAutry at 2:09 PM 5/7/2003

Honda4CX-T

Well as far as the O2 not hooked up, will give you the worst idle or no idle at all.

intekragsr

1)I would use mobil 1 10w30
2) Stock ignition? I would gap at .030
3)prime the turbo by disconnecting the oil feed line on the turbo, crank the motor to make sure there is oil coming out of the line, pour a little down the hole in the turbo to semi lube it up.
4)no breakin procedure for a turbo.
5)it will start, but throw a cel, and run in limp mode most likely. You can start it. It will be damn loud but sweet.
6)You could, but you live in california. Running open downpipe on the streets will bring you lots of attention and Id hate to see you get a fix it ticket rihgt after you get the turbo on I personally towed my car to the shop.
7)Got no idea.


Make sure you have no leaks when starting it up. The turbo WILL smoke on first startup for a while. Dont be worried about that. Make sure the fuel line coming from the bottom of FPR is TIGHT! I made this mistake on my other first turbo integra and i leaked half a gallon of fuel until I got to my driveway. Clamp that **** like no tommorw because the fuel pressure will be high. Constantly listen for strange sounds for the first test drive. Thats all I can think of for now.

RyanAutry

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda4CX-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well as far as the O2 not hooked up, will give you the worst idle or no idle at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really?

RyanAutry

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1)I would use mobil 1 10w30
2) Stock ignition? I would gap at .030
3)prime the turbo by disconnecting the oil feed line on the turbo, crank the motor to make sure there is oil coming out of the line, pour a little down the hole in the turbo to semi lube it up.
4)no breakin procedure for a turbo.
5)it will start, but throw a cel, and run in limp mode most likely. You can start it. It will be damn loud but sweet.
6)You could, but you live in california. Running open downpipe on the streets will bring you lots of attention and Id hate to see you get a fix it ticket rihgt after you get the turbo on I personally towed my car to the shop.
7)Got no idea.

Make sure you have no leaks when starting it up. The turbo WILL smoke on first startup for a while. Dont be worried about that. Make sure the fuel line coming from the bottom of FPR is TIGHT! I made this mistake on my other first turbo integra and i leaked half a gallon of fuel until I got to my driveway. Clamp that **** like no tommorw because the fuel pressure will be high. Constantly listen for strange sounds for the first test drive. Thats all I can think of for now.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the help. I don't think I will be driving it tonight. Just idling.

intekragsr

Let us know how it goes.

RyanAutry

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let us know how it goes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I will.

Sonny

Use non-detergent oil if you can get it. Pennzoil and Valvoline both make it. I had a hell of a time finding it, but I finally found it at a local Napa. 30w non-detergent Valvoline for $1.70/quart.

Sonny

RyanAutry

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sonny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Use non-detergent oil if you can get it. Pennzoil and Valvoline both make it. I had a hell of a time finding it, but I finally found it at a local Napa. 30w non-detergent Valvoline for $1.70/quart.


Sonny</TD></TR></TABLE>

Should I use this oil all the time?

Why is it recommended?

intekragsr

It should not matter if you use detergent, synthetic, non synthetic. He is not breaking in a brand new motor.

Use whatever oil you like.

FBP Si 2000

Good luck.

b18cya

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3)prime the turbo by disconnecting the oil feed line on the turbo, crank the motor to make sure there is oil coming out of the line, pour a little down the hole in the turbo to semi lube it up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is false. we tried doing this for like 2 hours, trying to figure out why no oil was coming out of the feed. well just cranking the motor over (NOT starting the engine) will not create enough oil pressure to pump oil thru the feed.

just hook up the feed like its supposed to be & start the engine & let it idle for 10 seconds, kill the motor, pull the line off the turbo & make sure oil is flowing. there is already assembly lube in the turbo, & just idling wont spin the turbo anyways.

Sonny

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanAutry &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Should I use this oil all the time?

Why is it recommended? </TD></TR></TABLE>

My bad...I thought you were going to start a brand new rebuilt engine.

Sonny

RyanAutry

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sonny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


My bad...I thought you were going to start a brand new rebuilt engine.


Sonny</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wish.

I guess I should of clarified...

Just the first startup with the turbo.

Honda4CX-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda4CX-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> »
Well as far as the O2 not hooked up, will give you the worst idle or no idle at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanAutry &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Really? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well yes. Your O2 sensor(s) sends the ECU feedback if running lean/rich AF mix so it can idle accordingly.

intekragsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18cya &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this is false. we tried doing this for like 2 hours, trying to figure out why no oil was coming out of the feed. well just cranking the motor over (NOT starting the engine) will not create enough oil pressure to pump oil thru the feed.

just hook up the feed like its supposed to be & start the engine & let it idle for 10 seconds, kill the motor, pull the line off the turbo & make sure oil is flowing. there is already assembly lube in the turbo, & just idling wont spin the turbo anyways.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Strange, mine sure as heck spit oil out after cranking

Straight from http://www.importparts.com website under the drag 3 install manual:

Installation Supplement

Start-Up Preparation

1. Add engine oil.

2. Add coolant if necessary.

3. Connect the battery terminal.

4. Remove the coil wire so that the motor will crank but will not start.

<U>5. Hold the oil feed line for the turbocharger in an empty oil can and have an assistant crank the engine seven to ten times in spurts of ten seconds each. After 1/4 qt. of oil has filled the oil can, the oil feed line may be attached to the turbocharger. This procedure purges the oil line of any debris inside the line that may damage the turbocharger.</U>

6. Replace the coil wire.

7. Recheck all connections and start the engine. Allow the engine to idle.

8. Check the entire system for leakage of coolant, fuel, and vacuum. Correct as necessary prior to driving car.

9. Set ignition timing to factory specs. PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS SYSTEM IS NOT COMPATABLE WITH AFTERMARKET CHIPS THAT ADVANCE IGNITION TIMING. ADVANCED IGNITION TIMING MAY RESULT IN DETONATION, WHICH MAY LEAD TO ENGINE DAMAGE.

10. Gap spark plugs to .030. NGK part # BCPR7ES-11 spark plugs are highly recommended.

11. MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE HAS AT LEAST 92 OCTANE GASOLINE.

12. The vehicle is ready for testing.

spooled b16

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Strange, mine sure as heck spit oil out after cranking

Straight from http://www.importparts.com website under the drag 3 install manual:

Installation Supplement

Start-Up Preparation

1. Add engine oil.

2. Add coolant if necessary.

3. Connect the battery terminal.

4. Remove the coil wire so that the motor will crank but will not start.

<U>5. Hold the oil feed line for the turbocharger in an empty oil can and have an assistant crank the engine seven to ten times in spurts of ten seconds each. After 1/4 qt. of oil has filled the oil can, the oil feed line may be attached to the turbocharger. This procedure purges the oil line of any debris inside the line that may damage the turbocharger.</U>

6. Replace the coil wire.

7. Recheck all connections and start the engine. Allow the engine to idle.

8. Check the entire system for leakage of coolant, fuel, and vacuum. Correct as necessary prior to driving car.

9. Set ignition timing to factory specs. PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS SYSTEM IS NOT COMPATABLE WITH AFTERMARKET CHIPS THAT ADVANCE IGNITION TIMING. ADVANCED IGNITION TIMING MAY RESULT IN DETONATION, WHICH MAY LEAD TO ENGINE DAMAGE.

10. Gap spark plugs to .030. NGK part # BCPR7ES-11 spark plugs are highly recommended.

11. MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE HAS AT LEAST 92 OCTANE GASOLINE.

12. The vehicle is ready for testing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is correct thank god you posted this, but there is just one more thing I would like to add after the oil feed has spat some oil out reconnect the line to the turbo and continue cranking while a friend gently spins the impeller on the compressor side so the thrust bearing or shaft becomes completely lubricated before the engine is turned on just crank until you see some oil coming out the drain on the bottom of the turbo. The only reason it would ever take more than a couple of min. is if the car was still jacked in the air while you were cranking. buwhahahaha

spooled b16

Trust me it is not hard to burn a turbo up if it is not correctly primed I have seen it done. Follow the last two posts for priming instructions

danl

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda4CX-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well yes. Your O2 sensor(s) sends the ECU feedback if running lean/rich AF mix so it can idle accordingly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The ecu doesen't listen to the O2 sensor at WOT, but the engine runs just fine. Fact is I ran with no O2 sensor in my '89 hatch for a few months, same thing in my '90, same thing with my friends '90 crx si, and my other friends turbo '00 civic doesen't even have an O2 sensor at the moment. Just because the car can't use the O2 sensor for feedback doesen't mean it won't idle. It just has to fall onto the regullar fuel/timing maps with no correction.

Priming a turbo, blah. I mean, i'm sure it can't hurt but i've never done it. I pulled my 14b a few times when I had it, never primed it. Put a small 16g on, never primed it. Matter of fact, I was in boost by the time the motor came up to temp. Same thing with my friends '00 civic EX turbo. On mitsubishis, the turbo is the last leg in the oil before it goes back to the pan. Its also the dirtiest. My 14b had over 60,000 miles on it and has the same amount of shaft play and oil usage of my brand new MHI small 16g. All I would do is make sure that their is oil coming out of the oil drain, and I didn't see that mentioned. You can have oil at the feed, but if you have an internal turbo issue and it doesen't come out the drain, you're gonna be SOL.

spooled b16

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The ecu doesen't listen to the O2 sensor at WOT, but the engine runs just fine. Fact is I ran with no O2 sensor in my '89 hatch for a few months, same thing in my '90, same thing with my friends '90 crx si, and my other friends turbo '00 civic doesen't even have an O2 sensor at the moment. Just because the car can't use the O2 sensor for feedback doesen't mean it won't idle. It just has to fall onto the regullar fuel/timing maps with no correction.

Priming a turbo, blah. I mean, i'm sure it can't hurt but i've never done it. I pulled my 14b a few times when I had it, never primed it. Put a small 16g on, never primed it. Matter of fact, I was in boost by the time the motor came up to temp. Same thing with my friends '00 civic EX turbo. On mitsubishis, the turbo is the last leg in the oil before it goes back to the pan. Its also the dirtiest. My 14b had over 60,000 miles on it and has the same amount of shaft play and oil usage of my brand new MHI small 16g. All I would do is make sure that their is oil coming out of the oil drain, and I didn't see that mentioned. You can have oil at the feed, but if you have an internal turbo issue and it doesen't come out the drain, you're gonna be SOL.</TD></TR></TABLE>
look more closely before you post I specifically said make sure there is some oil coming out the drain

look a few posts up

danl

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spooled b16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
look more closely before you post I specifically said make sure there is some oil coming out the drain

look a few posts up </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, my bad.

rainmanEK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda4CX-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well yes. Your O2 sensor(s) sends the ECU feedback if running lean/rich AF mix so it can idle accordingly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bull ****

Your car will run fine, The ECU goes into a Standerd Preset Settings (Safty Mode)

I have run my car and Have many other friends that throw O2 codes or have no O2 sensor at all!

The IDLE will be fine!

Eric

vw-honda-hatches

I have never primed a turbo for the fact no matter how much i crank the motor, oil will never ever come out of that damn line.

intekragsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vw-honda-hatches &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have never primed a turbo for the fact no matter how much i crank the motor, oil will never ever come out of that damn line. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You guys are obviously doing something wrong then.

Poop111444

Yah who says no o2 sensor plugged in screws up the car? My secondary o2 is not plugged in, and when i drove around in my car the first time i forgot to plug in my primary o2 sensor when i installed the turbo. It ran fine. WTF