honda4lyfe91

As the title states which ram horn manifold turbo kit is better? As far as price and quality going along with a gt35r turbo!

http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/goprokit.html

http://www.full-race.com/store/turbo...turbo-kit.html

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

What's your budget? that's the "Better" question you need to ask. Both work.


/thread.

honda4lyfe91

budget to be honest is no limit (10-30k) fuel is issues to limitation and in need of a/c wanting to build my gsr full out daily driver reliability. Getting full motor build from real street, tranny quaife lsd cc clutch. Just curious to know which turbo kit is better manifold reliability. If there is any other ram horn manifold or better manifold which allows a/c also please mention also.

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

You would need a ac compatible manifold...

RAm horn is a good choice IMO,
Just read the FAQ thread you will learn a lot.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2Aforced-induction-forum-faq%2A%2A%2A-1024174/

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I think it depends upon goals and use. Ramhorns "look" cool, but there are plenty of alternatives that are much easier to integrate without cutting the power steering bracket and other headaches to make "A/C compatible". Full-Race is hard to beat in quality, but there are others that do quite well, also.. These aren't the only 2 names in the business.

As $MIKE$ said, check those FAQs out about manifolds, and read, read read.

Good luck.

honda4lyfe91

Thanks for the info guys but what other good companies are there actually for the ram horn manifold, been trying to look for an a/c compatible top mount nearly impossible.

sleepencivic

Been down your same road wanting a nice turbo daily driver with ac and or ps steering. Built a ls/vtec turbo dc sedan, kept the full size radiator, ram horn, drivers side 3 inch two piece down pipe, gt3540s turbo. I got the best of everything bought and or fabricated all the custom ac lines, got 2 spal pusher fans wired up to a separate relays. New ac compressor and condenser.....moral of the story is the ac never worked that good due to the tight constraints of the engine compartment even with wrapping the manifold and down pipe in DEI titanium wrap and turbo blanket the heat and lack of air flow kills the ac performance.


I will never build and turbo b or d series car with ac again.....s2ks and rsx's aren't that bad :0)

large intercooler + ac+ turbo = tight engine compartment and heat

Dark_Teg

I had the exact same experience in my CRX. AC never worked very well. It ended up being dead weight and got removed.

1158

Interesting. My AC works great. I did switch to a civic half radiator. That allowed me to put a small puller fan on the condenser.

What intercooler were you using? Also did you still have the foam impact POS in the bumper? Did you have an oil cooler?

I also had my manifold and DP coated by Swaintech.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You haven't driven the car that hard yet stressing the a/c compressor. NOt even close to enough miles. A/C air compression dies slowly

Same here. no A/C ever again. it works for a while, but not for that long.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Just pull the AC.. No point in keeping the AC, you will end up wanting to get rid of it in the future.

1158

Mac, I've had this car boosted for enough time to know the AC works. 8 years I think. First I had the Nuekin AC ramhorn and then I went to this setup. Granted that was 300whp then up to 360 and then 420, then 470 and now 480. AC working good has never been an issue for me. I drive the car pretty hard. My biggest problem was not keeping the AC cool but keeping the coolant temps under 200 with the AC on.

I've taken it on long trips too. Black car, black interior, NC coast summers. AC needs to works for me. I don't really want to show up to work in a puddle of sweat.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Ok. that's breezy. I'm seeing history from a lot of A/C setups over 10 years. you've been the lucky one.. I applaud you, seriously....

1158

Well it wasn't easy and took me a long time to get it right (I think the Swaintech white lightning coating helps a lot). Like I said, the coolant temps were my biggest problem. I had a period where I would use the AC and coolant temps would climb fast. I had to put the heat on to keep it from going above 210 and then the temp would take forever to drop under 200.

I pulled the foam from the bumper but then it took forever to warm up in the cold. I was having to take the bumper on and off each spring/fall to remove/reinstall it. To stop that I cut out the center section of the foam and made a plate that I can slide in and out depending on the weather. I also have a huge pusher fan on the pass side. It's 13 inch and sounds like a jet turbine.

OP if you want some more info on what I did let me know. I can try to help you but a lot of it is trial and error.

Runnerdown

A number of years ago at my old job we built a setup in an ek with AC/PS and it worked perfectly. This was however using a PWR air to water intercooler so the condenser and still had stock like airflow. The water pump did have a heat exchanger but it was small and did not create any major flow obstruction in the front end.

However, the function of the A2W setup was mediocre, with average IAT not being as low as desired. If I recall the setup was good for high 400's but would heat up quickly after repeated abuse. Space was very limited to get away with a truly stealth setup that was within reason.

frost_white_ej1

if money is not an issue then just get the full race, you can't beat the quality, the welds are flawless and quality is top notch.

honda4lyfe91

money isnt an issues but would like to know by experience quality between fullrace ram horn kit vs go-autoworks ram horn kit

92cxturbo

If money is not an issue, full race hands down. Quailty is second to none....

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Ac is for girls and girly men. Put the windows down and drive faster lol

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

There's no way to quantify that on a web forum. Trying to make a poll out of this thread wastes time, as the question was answered..

Full-Race
Pros:
-manifold had excellent quality construction

-very good customer support when needed , (but chances are you won't need them


-Their focus is on B, K, and F20C series engines only in the honda world,

-you get a sticker that says FULL-RACE so you look like a BOSS..

Cons:
-they are not complete "kits", meaning they lack a lot of the little important items (all the couplers, clamps, ties, brackets needed, filters, intake, etc)

-they're designed to eliminate creature comforts ..even if for a/c. Lots of stuff had to be gutted.

-They concentrate the kit strictly for purpose.. they use nice PWR intercooler, but you feel you should have had a Garrett intercooler for the money you paid..

-Few choices in parts, except for turbochargers, which are typically large and focused on Drag Racing with the exception of the EFR series.

-Created the term "twin scroll" to describe divided housings for larger exhaust wheels, and made it a marketing campaign in 2003-2004.

Go-Autoworks

Pros:
- the company is local business that supports builds for the lower budget-minded individual
-You can mix and match a variety of components in your "kit", from different downpipe sizes to different types and companies of intercoolers
-Include all of the small items, including feed/return lines, couplers, intakes and filters. If one doesn't fit your need, their online-store has their items available.
-they sell supplemental components including fuel pumps, brackets and injectors.
-Their intercooler piping kits are made with most 92-01 chassis in mind.
-You get a cool Go-Autoworks sticker!!! (Just not as BOSS as Full-Race)

Cons:
-Cast manifold kits are made for 5 bolt Ford-Style Housings in mind, which limits turbocharger choice.
-Limited turbocharger choices for faster responding setups in smaller sizes
-Piping kits are generally fit for OEM styled intake manifolds (get tricky if using a Skunk2 Ultra series, Jenvey, or Kinsler intake manifolds)
-A/C versions of Kooks "Ramhorn manifolds" fit, but require lots of trimming and cutting of bracketry to fit properly.

So, you be the judge on what best fits your needs. There is rarely ever such a things as a "best" component. Only what's best for YOU.

honda4lyfe91

Thanks alot the info you provided me its more than enough to which to decide for

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Personally I love my PWR intercoolers

Balor_Gr

go-auto
Turbocharger : Garrett GT35R Ball Bearing +$650 (includes water line kit)
Wastegate Size : Tial 44MM MVR STANDARD
Blow Off Valve : Tial Q 50mm
Charge Pipe Coating : Natural/None
Turbine Housing Coating : Natural/None
FMIC Coating : Natural/None
Charge Piping : Standard
Compact Air Filter : none

final price 2925

FR

- Turbocharger: Garrett GT3582R .82 a/r ($1,500)
- Downpipe Coating: None ($0)
- Manifold Coating : None ($0)
- Turbine Coating : None ($0)
- TiAL Q BOV: Blue ($260)
- TiAL MVR Wastegate : Blue ($349)

final price 5,214.61


Imo the price difference is big, taking into account go-autoworks
turbo kits are nice.On the other hand full-race is like Mercedes Benz pricey but also have big value even used.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Again, balor, look at whats included... couplers, bolts, clamps, filters.. it adds up, but now you don't have to go to several places for the little things.
Ad that to the full-race price, and the full-rave costs more overall

frost_white_ej1

as op said
lolz!

on the side note i have a strange feeling about this thread after reading some of op other post.