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Well I can’t get rid of boost creep on my setup no matter what I do. I’ve changed the boost reference point from the cold side intercooler cooler piping to intake manifold, had 3 different wg spring sizes 4,7, & 10lbs, had 3 different engines at 3 different compression ratios 9.6, 10.6, & 11.7-1, on 3 different fuel types pump 92, pump/methanol injection, and e85. Had ignition timing all over the place and nothing I’ve done has changed the boost creep. I always get 3-4psi creep over wg spring rate. Now I can tune around it just fine to get a flat boost curve, it just takes more time is all. So on my particular setup what do you think the cause of the creep is?
lol I forgot to mention I’ve by passed that as well. The mac valve is what actually allows me to tune around the creep. Idk its not even that big of a deal, just annoying more then anything else.
Nice man! I bet there is a night and day difference in response on the street with that manifold swap. That’s cool that there is no boost creep with your mini ram, my wg is on the side of my mini ram vs yours being right in front and I get boost creep. Your probably dying to get back and drive it, I know I would be lol.
yeah the dyno graph looks solid as far as the power curve! The topmount made really good power but honestly given the same temps as my last dyno session with the topmount I honestly think the mini ram would match it for power coupled with better response! Very happy with the results! It's a testament to GoAutoWorks and James tuning capabilities all working together in unison! What size wastegate do you have and what turbocharger? Also how much boost pressure are you running? Yeah September can't come soon enough! So ready to drive again lol
Originally Posted by Autoworks
Good work, that power curve is excellent
Thanks Greg! big thanks to you for your outstanding products. The mini ram is really showing its colors and showing that a topmount is not needed for most street setups to make good top end power as the general consensus seems to think. Can't wait to see what it does on race gas!
[QUOTE=GEN2 LS;51637758]yeah the dyno graph looks solid as far as the power curve! The topmount made really good power but honestly given the same temps as my last dyno session with the topmount I honestly think the mini ram would match it for power coupled with better response! Very happy with the results! It's a testament to GoAutoWorks and James tuning capabilities all working together in unison! What size wastegate do you have and what turbocharger? Also how much boost pressure are you running? Yeah September can't come soon enough! So ready to drive again lol
I have a turbosmart hypergate 45mm, spoolin performance mini ram, and stc dbb hunter turbo with .63ar hotside with full 3” exhaust. Currently running a 7lb wg spring and 16psi on the street and 20psi at the track. Sorry man we don’t need to clutter you nice clean thread with my boost creep bs lol.
lol I forgot to mention I’ve by passed that as well. The mac valve is what actually allows me to tune around the creep. Idk its not even that big of a deal, just annoying more then anything else.
I know.. This will prevent it in the first place. Better actuation.
Try a nightcrawler or GM solenoid from a Solstice.
yeah the dyno graph looks solid as far as the power curve! The topmount made really good power but honestly given the same temps as my last dyno session with the topmount I honestly think the mini ram would match it for power coupled with better response! Very happy with the results! It's a testament to GoAutoWorks and James tuning capabilities all working together in unison! What size wastegate do you have and what turbocharger? Also how much boost pressure are you running? Yeah September can't come soon enough! So ready to drive again lol
Thanks Greg! big thanks to you for your outstanding products. The mini ram is really showing its colors and showing that a topmount is not needed for most street setups to make good top end power as the general consensus seems to think. Can't wait to see what it does on race gas!
Thank you sir. The setup looks great and is putting the power where it's needed the most. I'm sure it will be a blast to drive!
Originally Posted by LightningTeg
Nice #s LS. I've been trying to spread the word about Mini rams being the best all around manifolds. People put top mounts on to make 500whp and I SMH
I agree...most people that purchase topmounts seem to do it for aesthetics 1st; they take the "how does it work in my build equation" factor 2nd.
not many updates.... car has been down since it arrived overseas. Needs a retune due to major climate change since it's initial tune. Purchased some SF detent springs for the trans and also their leak proof fel pro gasket that's suppose to be "the ****." Also had a new oil pan fabbed up via Greg @ GoAutoworks to better suite my new turbo manifold. Current oil pan is not setup right and car smokes. Also been busy with work and I bought a new toy...�� Hopefully I'll have the turbo car back on the road within the month.
not many updates.... car has been down since it arrived overseas. Needs a retune due to major climate change since it's initial tune. Purchased some SF detent springs for the trans and also their leak proof fel pro gasket that's suppose to be "the ****." Also had a new oil pan fabbed up via Greg @ GoAutoworks to better suite my new turbo manifold. Current oil pan is not setup right and car smokes. Also been busy with work and I bought a new toy...�� Hopefully I'll have the turbo car back on the road within the month.
That new toy looks pretty sweet! Can't wait to see your turbo car back in action.
Thanks man! yeah it's a very clean car and bone stock other than a front brake upgrade to the larger prelude brakes. Been a honda guy for over 10 years now and to finally have the opportunity to own a true Integra Type R and it be the Japanese spec model at that I had to get it before prices skyrocket anymore. The hype behind these cars is real! In stock form the handling and braking is phenomenal Hell even the engine is quite peppy for what it is. Still love my turbo gsr though when I want that raw power!!!
Originally Posted by Txdragon
This is a thing of beauty!
Thank you sir! just needs a mild drop and some mag blue TE37's!
small updates... Installed new oil pan and oil drain line but still having issues with smoke via the exhaust. Need some advice on my return line as I feel it doesn't have enough of a slope to gravity feed the oil back into the pan. Also my oil dipstick tube is leaking oil from the bottom where it meets the block so that's next on the list.
Smoke is noisy likely from your oil drain return line that upends at the last point in the pan, causing oil back up
‘I’ve seen worse than his for sure, I would think it should still be ok. I’m curious when does it actually smoke, under boost , at idle, deceleration, all the Time?
I wanna say leaking. With blow by wouldn't it be blowing my dipstick out of the tube under boost?
Originally Posted by turboLScrx
Does your turbo require a oil restriction fitting? If so, did you use one
yes I have a restrictor on the turbo.
Originally Posted by turboLScrx
‘I’ve seen worse than his for sure, I would think it should still be ok. I’m curious when does it actually smoke, under boost , at idle, deceleration, all the Time?
The car smokes all the time, faint smoke at idle, blip the throttle and you get a nice cloud. Under heavy boost doesn't seem to smoke as bad but it might appear that way because of the wind turbulence carrying the smoke away as I go down the road.
Only for sure way to know if it’s a turbo seal would be to remove or replace the turbo . Mine will push a little oil through the seal after being under a full load which will cause some smoke the next time I crank the car , but it clears up after about a min
‘I’ve seen worse than his for sure, I would think it should still be ok. I’m curious when does it actually smoke, under boost , at idle, deceleration, all the Time?
Check the fitting that's going into the actual oil pan, it's pointing slightly upward, from a FLAT path, not exactly in a "J" shaped pattern. In addition, considering his symptoms are where oil smoke is doing this almost all the time, from a manifold that sits soo low, points to at least an oil backup from the return line.
Yes, checking the turbocharger itself is optimal, but I wouldn't count the oil sealing rings being down and out. It takes a LOT to kill those, and I'd hate for him to put in another turbocharger or rebuild the current one when the signs point to only a few areas.
If he's not seeing any oil coming from the compressor side, like a large amount of residue, I'd say it's the oil return line.
As for "blowby", (aka excessive crankcase pressure) , just because the oil dipstick isn't blowing out of it's location wouldn't necessarily mean that he doesn't have excess crankcase pressure. If he has a catchcan setup that is properly setup, he shouldn't have that issue, (whether he's using a PCV style system or the coveted -10AN Valve cover system of oil catch ) But yes, he may need to remove the turbocharger and it's turbine housing and check the area around to confirm...
Here's a great diagnostic chart he may want to reference when it comes to these issues, to narrow things down.
Check the fitting that's going into the actual oil pan, it's pointing slightly upward, from a FLAT path, not exactly in a "J" shaped pattern. In addition, considering his symptoms are where oil smoke is doing this almost all the time, from a manifold that sits soo low, points to at least an oil backup from the return line.
Yes, checking the turbocharger itself is optimal, but I wouldn't count the oil sealing rings being down and out. It takes a LOT to kill those, and I'd hate for him to put in another turbocharger or rebuild the current one when the signs point to only a few areas.
If he's not seeing any oil coming from the compressor side, like a large amount of residue, I'd say it's the oil return line.
As for "blowby", (aka excessive crankcase pressure) , just because the oil dipstick isn't blowing out of it's location wouldn't necessarily mean that he doesn't have excess crankcase pressure. If he has a catchcan setup that is properly setup, he shouldn't have that issue, (whether he's using a PCV style system or the coveted -10AN Valve cover system of oil catch ) But yes, he may need to remove the turbocharger and it's turbine housing and check the area around to confirm...
Here's a great diagnostic chart he may want to reference when it comes to these issues, to narrow things down.
sooooooooooo big update... and bad news. So I have narrowed it down to what I believe is a issue within the cylinder head. The turbine compressor housing was oil free and dry. I was in the process of replacing the oil dipstick tube and had to pull the turbo manifold off and glad that I did. Was too focused on the oil line causing the smoking issue that I overlooked the possibility of the head since it was just freshly rebuilt via a machine shop.
Gonna take a break and let the car sit for a good while because I'm tired of dumping $$$$$ into it at this point.
Compression tested the bottom end and it was 175 psi across the board. The bottom end has been running roughly 9 years so dunno if I should just refresh the bottom end up while I have the head off as well or just have the "if it ain't broke don't fix it mindset"
05-17-2018, 07:19 PM
Re: GEN2LS's 500whp 93 octane GSR progress build
) But yes, he may need to remove the turbocharger and it's turbine housing and check the area around to confirm...
