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So we just got my car together and dyno tuned on Monday. Everything was going great untill last night. Found out I had developed an oil leak, and not a little one. It wasn't leaking when it left the shop, and I've been checking the oil level pretty regularly so I'm almost 100 percent sure it happend last night. Anyhow, my question is this, what would cause it to just start leaking? My only thought is I am on the stock crankcase ventilation system and maybe there was to much pressure from the turbo? It seems like it's all tight as I was messing with it today. I was thinking about taking if off and hitting the threads with teflon tape (I think sealent was used the last time) and re-installing it, but would you guys trust it, or just get another one? I don't want it to happen on the highway or something you know.

B16Drag

I used teflon on my thread when I installed mine and thank goodness no leaks from there... (PITA to fix behind the motor in the bay with those lines)

Bond

so it's leaking from your attached feed lines or from the "body" that screws onto the oil filter threads?

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The body that srews onto the filter threads. Your right, it is a major PITA getting to it. I wish I had a lift.

Schister66

Sorry for the somewhat off-topic post, but this is the reason i went with the Oil Pressure sender line rather than the GE Sandwich plate. I had heard of a few mishaps with them. Good luck with it. I hope you get it figured out...there's nothing worse than leaking oil

kyden

sounds like the o-ring on the back of it is leaking.

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That's what I'm thinking too. Golden eagle said they'd send me a new one. I wonder what caused it to start leaking in the first place? To much oil pressure? I wouldn't think that would be it. Maybe it was just a crappy o ring to begin with.

Anyhow, I didn't put on the sandwich plate so I'm not familiar with how it goes on. Does it screw on with the nut holding it in place, or does it slide on and then you torque it down with the nut? I don't have my tools here so I haven't tried loosing the nut yet, but I'm really hoping I don't have to disconnect the feed line to un-screw it as that's not leaking and it's going to be a pain in the dick to get my wrench in there. I know that you can over tighten the sandwich plate and pinch the O ring, so does anyone know the torque specs? I forgot to ask GE when I called them.

Si GUY99

When you say you used "sealant" do you mean teflon paste? If it was me I'd buy a hondata IM gasket and swap that out at the same time since it will be easier to work on the sandwich that way. Or I think Ive heard of guys running a line from the block to a brass "T" on the fire wall and no sandwich your call.

underpressure02

Mine leaked from new, a slow drip where it meets the block. I think the o-ring is a use once. It got worse when I took it off and put it on another engine.

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It would be one thing if it was a slow drip, but it's almost like a faucett! Does it screw on to the threads or does it slide over and then get held in place with the nut?

kyden

its a captured o-ring. it sits in a groove. the center of the adapter screws onto the block.

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Thanks.

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Should I use teflon paste or something on the o ring where it mates to the block, or should I just get another O ring and hope this one seats better?

Bond

I personally would use some sort of sealant with a new o-ring gasket. i don't know about the tq spec. i would just call them and as again. when i put mine on i will use some ultra grey permatex and call GE for a tq spec.

B16Drag

I would agree with Bond. I didn't use ultra grey permatex on my "o" ring but I did use teflon on the threads attaching to the "adapter"

I'd use the ultra grey permatex if I were you along with the teflon tape on teh thread.

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RESOLUTION:

Turns out the nut that holds it on was loose. Must have rattled loose or something with all the vibrations in the car. Thank god it was an easy fix!

Bond

Good to know!

I'm still going to put teflon tape on the threads and then sealant on the mating surface between sandwich and block