Johnyquest

As the title says, i'm out in the garage building my motor -- or still dissasembling for that matter. I have all the parts ready to go back in, but the big problem is in trying to take the crank out (d16z6) I notice the motor has two 'end caps' so to speak that hold the crank in place along with the girdle.
I took all the bolts out, but it almost seems like they are siliconed on there, and that could possibly be the reason I can't get them off. I'm afraid to pry hard at them because I don't know what lives between the block and this plate. In case you guys aren't sure what i'm talking about exactly, these are the front and rear endcaps that the crank snubs stick through.
How do you guys get them off with all the silicone **** holding them on?

Thanks,
Matt

BoostedEG6

I know sometimes you can spin the crank and they will come loose.... if not I dont know what to tell you... I have never had that problem before

93LSivic

Im going to suggest that you not build your own motor if you dont know what an oil pump and a rear main seal plate are.

Im not trying to be a dick, sorry if it looks to be that way.

But to remove them simply remove the 10mm bolts on both of them. Then you should be able to pry them off, but be sure not to stick the screwdriver inbetween the mating surfaces so you dont nick the aluminum. Scrape off the hondabond with a razor blade and clean both surfaces before you bolt them back on.

GET A HELMS!

BoostedEG6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im going to suggest that you not build your own motor if you dont know what an oil pump and a rear main seal plate are.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha I didnt even see where he said where the crank sticks threw....

Johnyquest

I'm fully aware that it's the rear main seal + that the oil pump lives in the front. Regardless, I don't know where to pry from. I just don't want to break ****, and you're right, I dont have a helms

I am fully capable of doing a motor build -- it's for the most part pretty simple. I built a chevy 350 with my dad, but unlike hondas, the rear main seal lives between the oil pan and the block, as opposed to there being a 'plate.' Other than that, it's all the same idea. I was just a little stuck and better cautious, right?

Matt

eddyboy

Just pry it off. The front and rear main seals do not hold the Crank girdle in place. The only thing between the block and those seals are two dowel pins.

I do agree with 93LSivic however. Even though building and engine is not too difficult, you still need to know all the torque specs and clearances for the motor. I highly recommend you picking up a HELMS manual.

GL

platinum00

stick a breaker bar in there and pry up. it will come loose. those are pretty sturdy peices down there so dont worry about giving it a little mussle.


platinum.

FBPninetynineEM1

i would recommend taking a towel putting it over the cap and hit it a few times from a side angle with a rubber malot...a breaker bar can easily damage the surface and edges of the caps when pry between the two surfaces...just my 2 cents from experience!

FBPninetynineEM1

also you could try taking two screw drivers and stick them in the bolt wholes and push them back and forth till it wiggles lose

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

There are little flaps on the front and rear covers that you can get a pry bar under and then smack the pry bar with a hammer to pop it loose.

Johnyquest

Got it off 5 mins after you guys replied. Thanks alot. Pulled all the pistons and and the crank. ******* front bearing -- nearest the timing belt was worn down to the copper... which I think mean's the crank is probably fucked w/o a micropolish... so ghey.

I'm gonna notch the block and hone in a few mins... maybe I should take some pics?

Thanks mucho to all repliers. Much appreciated.

Matt

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

Is the #1 rod or #1 main journal damaged?

A micropolish won't necessarily take out the scuffing. It may need to be undersized. If that's what it comes down to, then just get another crankshaft.

slowpokesi

what car is this, i might have a helms online that you can use , i would not reassymble the motor with out a helms, you wont know what tq specs are needed and you might do some serious damage!

Foowee

Just a random thought. You may want to check the clerance of the oil pump gears. If the front bearing was bad you may have had some bad vibes in that end of the crank...

Johnyquest

It wasn't bad, just a bit worn. There are no marks or scratches on the crank -- but you can see the copper coming through on the bearing, likely due to timing belt tension.

Ringlands were cracked on 2 out of the 3 pistons that were left...

I went to go get bearings today, and realized that I don't know how to figure out what sizes I need. How do you all go about it? I got the chart out of the book from Honda which allows you to determine what color bearings you need, but being that I am using aftermarket rods... how does that work? i.e. half the equation to get the correct bearing size is to get the marks off the crank and the marks off the rod, and pick the bearing -- but the rods are all new now... So I'm a bit confused on how to go about it. Do you guys all use honda bearings when you build motors?

Thanks,

Matt

slowpokesi: It's a 95 civic... d16z6. Is the helms online?

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I use a micrometer and dial bore gauge to take all of the measurements.

BlueSi2k

The markings on the rods are numbers right? If I remember correctly eagle's are all 3's from the factory. Im not sure about other rods.

Johnyquest

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueSi2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The markings on the rods are numbers right? If I remember correctly eagle's are all 3's from the factory. Im not sure about other rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ahhh, reminded of the reasons I love ht

You are right that that is how Eagles are, per endyn's website -- But I bought Scat's. I notice Importparts.com carries Scats -- Maybe you guys know if they are sized like eagles?

On a sidenote, besides online, where have you guys picked up your Haynes manuals? I definatley do need one

Johnyquest

...well just to let everyone know, I mic'd the scat rods, and all four come out to 1.8900 exactly. I compared this measurement to the ID of a stock #3 rod, and it's the same. At first I was off by .0025, but then I realized that you have to torque the rod bolts down to get an accurate reading... so I torqued them down, and I got the exact same 1.8900 reading. That means they use #3's as well.

Ordered and building in a few days. Have fun everyone.

Matt

PS- I'll take some pics. Expect them soon.

Greg-s

Where are you getting tourque specs to put it all back together?

Pry it off its cake.