Pompiuses

I'm building a B-series for road racing (20+ minute sessions). I've currently got a Full Race road race manifold (the one with an angled wastegate to allow for a full size radiator). Due to the massive heat signature this manifold has I got second thoughts about using it for road racing. I really like the design of the InlinePro T3/T4 manifold (not the T3). Does anyone know if my T3 4 bolt GT28RS will work with this manifold? What about the 44mm wastegate? How will these two manifolds compare when it comes to power? I've got a built 81.5x89mm 10:1 B-series with Skunk2 stage1 Tuner Series cams.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Tubular manifold is better than a cast manifold for flow design. Both are going to give off tremendous heat road racing. Thermal coat the manifold and/or use heat wrap 1-2 layers will really help with under hood temps. get a turbo blanket and wrap the downpipe as well and you should be just fine

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I would concur, stick with the full race manifold.

Pompiuses

I've seen too many cracked manifolds because of heat wrap when road racing, so I think fabricating a heat shield around the manifold is the only option, which can get a bit difficult with the Full-Race manifold. Besides a long runner manifold as the Full-Race will radiate much more heat than a short runner like the InlinePro. As far as I've seen the InlinePro shouldn't perform that much worse than the Full-Race with a small turbo like the gt28rs?

SLIM NOTHING

if your looking to build a turboed road race car. contact jeff evans at evans tuning in PA. he worked with is turbo civic hatch years back to make it work great for running at road tracks. I beleive it was 600hp. he succeeded i beleive due to working to keep the oil cooled and so on.

heres a video back in the day at watkins glenn

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCT1v...eature=related

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I remember that video. It doesn't take Evans to setup a good road race car. The equal length is a bit much, but still usable enough if he has the right turbocharger. The GT2860RS or GT2871R are great combos for b16 and B18 hondas planning to road race. Just don't make the mistake of using a .82A/R T3 for this setup. this kills the whole purpose of the car

Casey

iTrader: (5)

if you dont want to heat wrap this is another option. more expensive, but it seems to work well for s2k guys that have used it

http://www.atpwrap.com/html/imports.html

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/im...5-2009-172jpg/

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/im...5-2009-170jpg/

turbociv910

ceramic coating, wrap and a big *** radiator.

Pompiuses

That heat wrap looks really nice. Exactly what I've been looking for.

I've got the .82AR housing. Haven't put it on yet. From the dynos I've seen I should hit 1bar at about 4000rpm on a B18C. Do you think it'll be too unresponsive?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

out of the corners it will be slower response than a smaller turbine housing, your going to have to really keep the rev's up in order to stay in boost out of the turns

Pompiuses

Yeah smaller housing always means more response, but I thought the gt28rs would be very responsive even with a bigger housing.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Can't go by "dynos" for road racing like that. No. you won't like it compared to the smaller housings for that use. Even the Inline Pro manifold won't improve it.

Pompiuses

IOk thank you for the advice. Do you know how much power people typically get with the .63ar at around 1bar with a b18c?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Not offhand. I'll need to recalculate using my emulator. I'll get back to you

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

ROFLMAO!!!!

Pompiuses

Hehe funny...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

hehehhe. I crack myself up...

mighty137

Full-race + ATPWRAP

Pompiuses

Anyone got experience with other Inconel heat shields? Atpwrap turned out to be a bit expensive. This one looks nice:
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/pr...o-shield/51/21

Casey

iTrader: (5)

told you it was expensive lol. what did they quote you? $1000ish?

Pompiuses

$375 for the manifold alone and you have to ship the manifold to them.

LightningTeg

Id go with the inline pro, better packaging constraints and cast iron will retain that heat better. You dont need that much power on a road course in a light honda. I cant remember his name, but there was a twin charged hatch dominating in the street FWD class of redline time attack and he only made around 300whp. But the powerband was great (JRSC + 3076)

Tootsie7944

My car is solely used as a road race car. I have done VIR when it's been 126 degrees track temperatue, CMP, etc.

I'm running a Full-race manifold, GT 3582R turbo (so I am running.82), 600 whp, pump gas, AEM 5 gallon Methanol (40-60 water/meth mixture) which helps keep the intake temps around 50 degrees on the road course. And I am running straight water/water wetter mixture.

I have great response, no lag issues, etc. A good driver will keep the RPM's high enough and pick the right gears so that you're typically above 5,000 the entire time.

I do not run a oil cooler, but my oil temps do not get above 225 degrees at the hottest. My coolant however used to typically get too hot though (it'll hit 220 degrees after about 10 mins on track in 100+ degree weather).

The only thing I can reccomend that helps with overheating is either running no hood (then you have a down force and aerodynamic issue), running a carbon fiber hood w/ vents to get the ambiant heat out of the engine bay, or running a post-turbo -6an radiator to cool the boiling water coming out of the turbo. I have also read that wrapping tubular manifolds can cause cracks and fractures so I personally have never tried that. As far as coating them, it's a waste of time. Trust me, I had mine coated with the best out there and my Phoenix Yellow paint still glowed orange after a session on track.

Honestly, paying ATP or someone similar is your best bet for really solving the problem. You reduce the radiant heat under the hood and it makes keeping everything else cool much easier.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I guess. I've used the coatings and found a noticeable difference. Its still going to "glow" regardless. I tend to use both the wrapping and coating.

Tootsie7944

Maybe I just got jipped on my coatings then because it never did anything for me and has started flaking off pretty badly 3 years later. That's been my experience with full-race though honestly. Most of the stuff I've gotten from them over the years has performed well, but been questionably reliable.