MisterB

i am currnently running an fmax kit with the mf2 and extra injectors on an f22 accord motor and need to upgrade my fuel. i am planning on an in tank fuel pump and rising rate fpr... which ones should i use and what else should i do i already detonated a grip and blew up the motor and dont want to do it again opions and recomendations are appreciated

BlueShadow

why dont you get a true standalone system, bigger injectors, and a bigger fuel pump? how much boost were you running to detonate your motor? and did you even get it tuned properly?

unless you want to try and run the same setup. you can sell the MF2, ++injectors.

JM Performance

Just curious....did you ever tune your MF2? on a wideband?

MisterB

i was running 9psi and nope i never tuned it which also played a big roll in blowing it up...

smoothludey2

wow, you blew up your motor cuz you didn't have it tuned? damn bro...anyways, get a true standalone if you have the money, get a new fuel rail, fpr, intank pump, and larger injectors....basically get rid of mf2...most tuners don't like that setup anyway.

JM Performance

um...most "people" dont like that setup. many tuners (well, people who have their MF2 tuned ) say it works great


-Matt (still backing up the MF2 at all costs

MisterB

so if i did decide to keep the mf2 and tune it what else should i do, good for around 10psi, in tank feul pump and a fpr will this be ok i would also get feul pressure gauge and maybe a air feul ratio gauge to monitor things

BlueShadow

I'd say 9 PSI is the most you'd want to run on the MF2, but If you're on stock internals I would stay at 7-8 PSI.

ForcedAccord

Well to get a standalone on a f22 engine you have to switch the ECU's to like a LS non-vtec or something for the Hondata b/c they couldn't decode 96+(OBDII)

So unless the AEM will work, then I think any Accords w/ the OBDII are screwed, that could be why he didn't get a standalone.

EDIT: Btw, recommend getting the Vortech FMU to go w/ your injectors and fuel pump. Depending on the size of your injectors, if they are like 310cc probably get the 8:1 Disk.


[Modified by ForcedAccord, 1:09 AM 1/11/2002]

smoothludey2

The mf2 setup for the f-max kit using the lucas injectors before the intake manifold is a really ghetto setup....what it is is an alternative setup if you can't afford or get your hands on a standalone. The mf2 will get you up and running...but if you ask anyone who knows anything they'll take a standalone system over mf2 anyday.

BlueShadow

What are you talking about? from what I've been told a true standalone (Haltech, DFI) reaplaces your ECU meaning your not running OBD anything. the standalone is fully tunable via a handheld terminal or a laptop. this allows you to adjust all the features. (fuel, spark, boost etc)

ow if you are talking about a Hondata though you are correct, you have to replace your OBD 2 ECU with an OBD 1 ECU. Last I heard no one has been able to reprogram andy OBD 2 ECU.

MisterB

so to run a hondata i will have to use a OBD 1 ecu? what about other standalones

John_at_J&S

Consider the J&S Ultra SafeGuard V.2.

It has knock retard, boost retard, and an electronic MAP limiter. Importparts.com has units in stock.

I'm surprised Jhame at F-Max didn't recommend it when you bought your kit.

BlueShadow

well with the OBD 2 --> OBD 1 swap you have get the OBD 1 ECU, resistor box and I think the correct peak and hold injectors. I cant remember exactly what is needed for the swap.

here's a thread with some good info on how a Haltech works

http://www.preludeonline.com/showthr...threadid=37326

http://www.preludeonline.com/showthr...threadid=38174

smoothludey2

if you are doing the obd2 -> obd1 swap for hondata you can keep the saturated injectors if you want, if you want peak and hold then yes, you need the resistor box. I heard the haltech install is very difficult and it's rare to find someone to install it for you without charging an arm and a leg.