When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Bought the car at night outside in the rain just by observing it from a distance then towing it home and it wasn't untill the next day when i found out the car had some nice surprise after a full inspection.
The plan for this car is nothing more than a fun clean daily turbocharged street driven car that is responsive to drive around making "choo! choo!" as Moog from mighty car mods would say. I will be utilizing parts i have laying around the garage and what ever good deal i can find to get the most out of it with a small budget i will try not to cheap out on important aspect of the build but will cheap out on things i know i can get away with. I have done plenty of motor swap and 6 turbo kit piecing a 7th and 8th turbo kit as we speak so i am pretty farmilar with the basic of turbocharging and some but not all technical aspect of it, and it's that very reason why i decide to post this thread in here as there will be question that i couldn't find and will need to ask and be answer please bare with me as i know alot of this has been cover or answer before in similar build thread but i look at things as it technology, what is proved yestherday can already be improved today.
There is no realistic goal for this build as my only concern is to get this thing on the road and enjoy it, i will be happy with what ever the outcome is but every thing must have a goal and direction so on with it.
Power goal 300whp reliably on pump premium, but as stated i will be happy with what ever the car makes, i will only be utilizing only a few supporting mods on some weak links and concern area from my research everything else motorwise will be oem.
Car:
94 integra rs jdm front conversion, type r rep all around
Siebon carbon hood
Suspension:
Koni ground control spring rate 380f / 350r
Wheel:
16x9 reps
215/40/16 yokohama s drive
Motor:
Stock healthy b18a ls block with arp rods bolts
Vtec arp head studs
Jdm stock b16 sir2 head with oem type r dual valve spring.
Oem b16 head gasket
Jdm 96+ spec gsr camshaft
Jdm itr lightweight flywheel
ACT heavy duty pressure plate
Competition clutch 6 puck unsprung disc
Oem gsr transmission
lsv oil kit
Turbo kit:
Spa cast topmount manifold
Turbosmart 38mm 2 bolt ultragate 14 psi spring
Garrett ball bearing gt2871r with t3 .63a/r 4 bolt exhaust housing
Fullblown 700hp intercooler with welded intercooler pipe 2.5 coldside and 2.75 inch hotside (overkill but it's what i have)
Hks ssq5 bov
Glowshift boost / oil pressure guage
Aem wideband
2.5 downpipe all the way back to a greddy exhaust
Ems:
Hondata s300 v2
Fuel:
Walbro 255
Rc 750cc
So here are my question and concerns:
Anyone have a similar built or can estimated an ideal whp i will likely be making with this setup at 14 psi on pump? My guess is i should net 300whp with the smaller exahust system and overkill intercooler setup?
^^Will that exact unbalance setup hurt or harm anything beside power loss and restriction?
I know tuning is key! But say if i was making 370whp will i be safe with just the arp head and rod bolts or am i looking to snap those oem rods and destroy block? I heard and read mix opinion on multiple fourms and can't jog it down to a conclusion.
With this being a stock ls bottom end with the arp rods bolts will i be able to safetly rev it to 8k like only on track day's and be reliable if tune is spot on?
What is the psi efficiency range for the gt2871r?
P.s. sorry if my writing suck! I'm not that good with my vocabulary and punctuation.
Last edited by frost_white_ej1; 07-26-2017 at 09:34 AM.
Back with updates! So i am now juat about 1 or 2 weeks from first initial start up, but here are some of the progress so far.
Spa topmount manifold test fit
Was in the phase of ordering a 255 fuel pump luckly i check and this shell already had one 🖒
Got this good used no shaftplay gt2871r for a steal, i'm pretty sure the guy didn't know what he had, comparing the my predator.
Was lucky enough to find this brand new locally for a good price.
Another test fit of the turbosmart 38mm wastegate
Utilizing the old fullblown 700hp intercooler overkill but it save a pretty penny from having to buy one.
Found this brand new for $20 locally not a direct fit but nothing a few cutting, extention, and welding can fix with the extra pipe laying around.
Blow off and dump tube arrived.
Can't have a boosted car without a wideband we'll see how well this x series work.
arp rods bolts and clutch is about to go in.
Big shout out to Mac (TheShodan) once again for coming thru with the new exhaust housing with all the fitting and line, will be using the 4 bolt to vband conversion flange from the previous built.
Magnetic drain plug because the last guy decide to silicon the oil drain and cheap glowshift guage.
Stop by follblown today to grab the rest of the cloupling and clamp i needed.
If you find the cash I'd recommend downsizing that intercooler, even if it means just getting an eBay one.
Also, if you even just rattle-can painted that car and took a bit of time to finish-sand, buff, and polish it by hand it would look 50x better than it does now. Bonus points if you eventually get stock interior back, but I digress...
I vote against that. Keep the intercooler as efficient as possible, even if its the larger size, for something like the size turbocharger you have. There are ways to allow for more space for the JDM conversion, but to reduce the overall size, I strongly discourage it.
If you find the cash I'd recommend downsizing that intercooler, even if it means just getting an eBay one.
Money is not the issue here and i can easily find knock off intercooler pretty easily around my area for dirt cheap it just that i'm not willing to invest in something that is not really a concern to me.
Originally Posted by Chance EG
Also, if you even just rattle-can painted that car and took a bit of time to finish-sand, buff, and polish it by hand it would look 50x better than it does now. Bonus points if you eventually get stock interior back, but I digress...
I'm not worried about the body right now most important thing is to get the car running and tune first, the body shop can take care of body and paint work.
Decide to rattle can ceremic coat the turbo manifold and paint the valve cover since i was at it, the car color is similar to the spoon color so i figure i paint it yellow to give it that spoon sport look.
Once dry enough i slap the manifold and turbo back on for more downpipe mock up, from the way it look i had to cut the downpipe into 4 pieces and alter them to make this downpipe work.
Made some good progress last night and finish mocking up the downpipe and drop it off at a relative house to get all my welding done. 2.5 inch for now, i will go with a full 3 inch system later on when i feel more confident enough with the motor and upgrade a few things here and there.
Over the past week all the part that i needed welding on done, thanks to a good family member. The welding is not really a peice of art to look at but they are good and were free so i couldn't ask for more.
Install and gave her all the bare essential she needed for just a quick first startup.
I always follow greddy step from watching one of their video, always disconnect the distributor and crank the motor untill the dash light come on so it get oil through the system, and on first try! She didn't hesitate and lives! Purring nicely as she was stock, don't mind the battery and check engine light.
nice progress. which paint u use for the turbo exhaust side?
I didn't paint the turbine exhaust housing because i'm using an turbo blanket, i only painted the turbo manifold with autozone rattle can ceremic high heat coating because i was having clearance issue with the oil return line touching the manifold itself.
I didn't paint the turbine exhaust housing because i'm using an turbo blanket, i only painted the turbo manifold with autozone rattle can ceremic high heat coating because i was having clearance issue with the oil return line touching the manifold itself.
That's not going to help with the EGTs and it damaging the oil return line. No paint is going to protect that return line from potential damage, regardless of where it came from.
1- Wrap the exhaust manifold using thermal exhaust wrap.
2- Thermal sleeve the return line itself
That's not going to help with the EGTs and it damaging the oil return line. No paint is going to protect that return line from potential damage, regardless of where it came from.
1- Wrap the exhaust manifold using thermal exhaust wrap.
2- Thermal sleeve the return line itself
I just didn't clarified it all Mac, the ceremic coating is just added insurance, but i did just that of what you just mention, to be honest i got a little paranoid myself and did all that i could think of to try and keep the surface temperature as low as possible when at operating mode, i first ceremic coated the manifold with a couple thick layer, the wrap the manifold in thermal exhaust wrap, if you look at the picture closely you can catch a glimpse of the turbo manifold already wrap up, then i got a fire proof sleeve from ptp to insluated the oil return line and then wrap that up with some extra thermal reflective tape in which i hope will ne enough to solve the issue.
I just didn't clarified it all Mac, the ceremic coating is just added insurance, but i did just that of what you just mention, to be honest i got a little paranoid myself and did all that i could think of to try and keep the surface temperature as low as possible when at operating mode, i first ceremic coated the manifold with a couple thick layer, the wrap the manifold in thermal exhaust wrap, if you look at the picture closely you can catch a glimpse of the turbo manifold already wrap up, then i got a fire proof sleeve from ptp to insluated the oil return line and then wrap that up with some extra thermal reflective tape in which i hope will ne enough to solve the issue.
Oh, good.. I see it now, gotcha.. Nice, clean, thorough work.
06-16-2017, 12:59 AM
Garage budget ls-vtec Integra build
