forged rods and oem pistons?
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forged rods and oem pistons?
can i use forged rods and oem pistons; i have eagle rods for my b16 and i want buy pistons from b18b for lower compresion ( i want 400whp) becouse i red that forged rods are floating,so i must use aftermarkt pistons; the same thing i want to do with my jdm zc1 engine - buy forged rods (ebay ****) and npr pistons from d16a6 (it will be 8,5:1 - i want about 280whp)- can i do that?or i must buy forged pistons to? what with wirst pin?
#2
Man U FTW
forged rods and OEM pistons is completely backwards of what you want to do if you must cheap out....the weakpoint in the stock engine is not the rod, its the piston. Replacing the rods and leaving the OEM piston IS NOT going to do anything for you. Also for 280whp, stock internals will be just fine...i've seen stock B16s (one local at SLS) make 389whp on E85
#4
Man U FTW
The D CAN do it, but again the weak point in either setup is going to be the OEM pistons before the rods. Lowering the compression with B18 pistons may help, but you're still going to be running stock pistons. They all have the same fail point, the ringlands. I'm sure you could make 400whp on it and i've seen it done before, but personally i wouldnt be first in line to do it.
IMO if you're going to build it, put new pistons in it and skip the rods if anything....or tune on E85
IMO if you're going to build it, put new pistons in it and skip the rods if anything....or tune on E85
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Re: (Schister66)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">forged rods and OEM pistons is completely backwards of what you want to do if you must cheap out....the weakpoint in the stock engine is not the rod, its the piston. Replacing the rods and leaving the OEM piston IS NOT going to do anything for you. Also for 280whp, stock internals will be just fine...i've seen stock B16s (one local at SLS) make 389whp on E85</TD></TR></TABLE>
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#9
Man U FTW
Re: (bzyq2001)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bzyq2001 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hehe it's not like that; i want know, that i can fit forged rods to oem pistons</TD></TR></TABLE>
i guess i dont understand why, but i do believe they have different wrist pins....you may want to check in to that more. I'd go to the all motor forum...they like to do weird ****
i guess i dont understand why, but i do believe they have different wrist pins....you may want to check in to that more. I'd go to the all motor forum...they like to do weird ****
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if your going to go through the trouble of changing one you might as well wait and do both. its really stupid and a waste of time and money just to change either the pistons or change the rods
#11
Re: (bigbadboy)
you should change the pistons, but if your stuck on using stock pistons they will need to be machined to accept wrist pin clips. by the time you have the machine work done you could have had 1/2 the money for forged pistons.
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Re: (Schister66)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The D CAN do it, but again the weak point in either setup is going to be the OEM pistons before the rods. Lowering the compression with B18 pistons may help, but you're still going to be running stock pistons. They all have the same fail point, the ringlands. I'm sure you could make 400whp on it and i've seen it done before, but personally i wouldnt be first in line to do it.
IMO if you're going to build it, put new pistons in it and skip the rods if anything....or tune on E85 </TD></TR></TABLE>
stock rods for that power are a bad idea, ticking time bomb. D-series rod's arent exact replicas of b's. 220-260whp is about the limit on a useful lifespan on them
IMO if you're going to build it, put new pistons in it and skip the rods if anything....or tune on E85 </TD></TR></TABLE>
stock rods for that power are a bad idea, ticking time bomb. D-series rod's arent exact replicas of b's. 220-260whp is about the limit on a useful lifespan on them
#15
Man U FTW
Its not that you cant physically make them work together, its the fact that the B series piston ringlands are the weak point in the engine, not the rods. If you want to do it, there's nothing stopping you. You're going to have to get them machined IIRC in order to get the wrist pins to work.
Basically, if you're going to use stock pistons, then use stock rods and save yourself money.
Basically, if you're going to use stock pistons, then use stock rods and save yourself money.
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now i'm talking about d series not b, sorry tahat i'm writing like that, that nobady understand i red that i must take pistons to machine shop and they will do space for locks, but why?? the wirst pin has the same size in oem and in forged
Modified by bzyq2001 at 3:39 PM 11/17/2007
Modified by bzyq2001 at 3:39 PM 11/17/2007
#18
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Re: (bzyq2001)
OEM wrist pins have their own lock in place type deal in the rod making the rod and wrist pin one unit. The piston will only then free float on the wrist pin. After market have the locking clips on either side to keep the pin from sliding out of its hole letting the piston AND rod can both float on the pin creating less resistance and making it easier to pivot.
Now if you were to try to put aftermarket rods and stock pistons together your choices are have a machine shop press fit the pins into your aftermarket rods, have them machine in clip loops so the pins dont fall apart, do the right thing and get all forged or just leave it alone because its all going in one ear and out the other!
Now if you were to try to put aftermarket rods and stock pistons together your choices are have a machine shop press fit the pins into your aftermarket rods, have them machine in clip loops so the pins dont fall apart, do the right thing and get all forged or just leave it alone because its all going in one ear and out the other!
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