rasinhell

haha I know the title makes me seem like an *** face... =P Just messing. Anyways i've read every single flywheel thread in this forum and honestly, i'm still in the dark as to what I should do.

I've picked up a B18A1 longblock. There is no tranny on it and I need a clutch so I figured if i'm going to get an aftermarket flywheel, then now is the best time to get one. The motor, i'll be running stock for a couple of months, but I do plan to boost. Now i've heard a bunch of people say things like the rpm's dropping so fast that the car dies, however, i've also heard as many people saying it is BS and unrelated to the flywheel.

So this thread is for people who actually have light-weight flywheels and not for those who share hear say. So please post:

Motor (Boosted Only): <- dont know if this is really relavent.
Flywheel weight:
Pro's:
Con's:
Recommendations:

boostedcivicsir

my car never stalled on a down rev. it is in the tuning.

Motor: (84mm sleeved b16 to4b (for now, t3-t67 on the way)
Flywheel weight: unknown, it is a clutch masters. RPS Cyn-r-g on the way
Pro's: quick spool good free reving
Con's: found out from RPS the co-effecient of friction isnt there thats why my clutch started slipping at 17 psi.
Recommendations: i am going with an RPS 6 puck now with a Cyn-r-g segmented flywheel. i was talking to their tech guys and they have sold me on their setup.

rasinhell

hmm.. I'm sorry, i'm a newb. You might have to fill me in. The co-efficient of friction?

Do you mean to say that the lightened flywheel revs so fast that the clutch is not gripping or something like that? Is it recommended to get a better clutch like stage 1 or 2 w/ a lightened flywheel?

boostedcivicsir

the guys at RPS told me the CM flywheel is too hard and the ceramic pucks cant grab onto it. which made sense because i have a few miles on the clutch but not like 30,000. and it failed at 9000. plus i like the segmented flywheel design of the Cyn-r-g http://www.turboclutch.com check out rps.

bubs

Motor (Boosted Only): h22
Flywheel weight: 12 lbs.
Pro's: Revs really fast and works great for rev matching.
Con's:
-Normal driving requires more throttle from a start, not that big of a deal, but it's a lot easier to stall.
-Doesn't feel as "torquey" below ~3k rpm.
Recommendations: I had the flywheel before I went turbo, so I can't tell you what the difference between stock/lightweight is on an FI setup. I think it was worth it, it's nothing that will blow your mind though. Stick with the name brand stuff, I got screwed from buying a generic ebay clutch and flywheel.

tilt

Motor (Boosted Only): b18c1 and d15b2
Flywheel weight: 7.5 and 8 lbs
Pro's: rev matching/downshifting is much easier and quicker... this is a huge plus if you autox or roadrace. engine feels much livelier/rev happy.
Con's: if you are pushing it, shifting needs to be done quicker as the revs drop quicker also
Recommendations: lwf is the bomb

dustin

Motor (Boosted Only): b18c1
Flywheel weight: 8-9? (clutchmasters)
Pro's: Lighter.
Con's: None.
Recommendations: w00t

rasinhell

how is daily driving with a lightweight flywheel?

bubs

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Plugg’d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how is daily driving with a lightweight flywheel?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's about the same as stock once you get used to it, just requires a little more throttle off the line.

dustin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Plugg’d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how is daily driving with a lightweight flywheel?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's hard to tell the difference. It's easier to take off from a stop in a B18C1 hatch w/ lightened flywheel than in a DC2 chassis w/ stock flywheel, IMO.

dasher

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Plugg’d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Motor (Boosted Only): Turbo B18c1
Flywheel weight: 7lbs
Pro's: revs up quicker, less overall weight in car, faster acceleration
Con's: you have to raise the idle to at least 900 to make sure the car doesn't stall
Recommendations: 7lbs Aluminum
</TD></TR></TABLE>

tthame1

Motor (Boosted Only): 81.5 B16
Flywheel weight: 7 lbs.
Pro's: Revs insanely fast and seems to build boost a little quicker
Con's: Easier to stall the car driving it every day, definately not as forgiving as a stock flywheel
Recommendations: Contrary to what a lot of people think, the lighter the better for any application. You are removing mass that the engine has to turn. As long as you can drive it, I'd say go with a 7 lb flywheel. Think about it, all of the race cars run twin disk setups that weigh around 15 lbs total (clutch and flywheel).

CleanLikeJdm

I have a 8lb Fidanza flywheel on my ls.
The whole thing with some driveablility problems,
and how you lose certain aspects etc etc,
I've never came across, I could barely tell the difference when I first put it in.

It's Not hard to drive, and Barely takes any getting use to.
So I'd say go with the lightest, Most of the time I don't even have to shift too fast,
And the revs will just be dropped to the right rpm.

So it's not like you have to learn to drive stick in a whole new fashion,
Just make sure you get a good brand name.

platinum00

Motor (Boosted Only): D16y8
Flywheel weight: 7.5 lb
Pro's: Revs to 9k with a quickness. Gets me into boost sooner
Con's: RPM's drop quick when coming to a light. never stals though, just gets to around 500 rpm then picks back up to 800 or so. Harder to launch consistant
Recommendations: get a LFW around 9-12 lbs

platinum.

D@nnY

I had a 7.5 lb and i took it off ....when the wheels spin its going to reline before you have a chance to let off a little...

its a bitch to launch with high hp and youll screw up your tranny shifting liek a mad man to keep the revs up

platinum00

i will agree with you there.

if i loose traction. its at redline in like 1 sec.

i just dont even try to hit the gas till 3rd.

platinum.

Rain_man

Motor: Turbo B18B
FW Weight: 8 lbs
Pros: Rev matching is quick and easy.
Cons: It's a little tricker to get going b/c your gas pedal control needs to be finer but you quickly adjust.
Recommendations: Get a lwf.