kturbosquirtle

learning is good, everyone has they own pace,,


ALL donations welcomed

kturbosquirtle

i agree, its all a learning process

LightningTeg

I personally witnessed this car drop a valve right after our race. He was right around 600whp on stock valve springs and retainers. Coolant was shooting out the exhaust like a geyser.


The K series are stout motors, but the springs and retainers really need to be replaced if you want any sort of longevity out of it. To flat out ignore the advice of everyone here to "be different" Is just stupid. But hey not my $$$

Good luck.

Aradin

That's good advice for any NA engine turned turbo honestly. Boost pressure presses on the back of the intake valve and causes the springs to be less effective. Essentially boost tries to push the valve open and the spring has to fight that. The more boost you run, the less effective they get. Combine that with more frequent high RPM operation on a stock valvetrain and it's a recipe for disaster.

I don't get why some people insist on learning the hard way. You can change the springs and retainers without even taking the head off the engine.

1988dxsedan

iTrader: (2)

Valve springs and retainerd do not mean studs, gaskets, cams, etc etc etc. It could mean all that, or it could be just springd and reatiners.
I am not a k series guru, but the b series you can replace the valve springs, retainers and keepers pretty easily with the head still bolted down in thr chasis. You can make or they sell a tool to go in the spark plug hole, hook to air source, amd that holds the valve in place while you remove the keepers retainers and springs. Reassemble, reinstall cams. Done. The valve springs depressor tool that bolts to the head to compressor the spring is like 70 bucks tops. You can make the air fitting to go in the spark plug hole for under 20 bucks ide guess, or you can buy one already made. Just trying to say that by doing springs your easily insuring your motor to over 600 mark. By not doing all that other crap you think goes along with a valve spring upgrade, you keep cost down. I personally swapped my b series springs out the exact way im describing, head on vehicle and all. Something to consider. Do it right once. No sense is risking your hard work and hard earned money on something as inexpensive and simple as a valve spring. I honesly opted to oem retainers and keepers as well due to the quicker wear of titanium ones that I read about.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

It's alright. you simply missed the entire point. You're starting to self-rationalize a bit now. So, don't concern yourself with it any further.

I'm not trying to be disrespectful; No... seriously.. For Real.. I'm simply trying to avoid needless argumentative deflecting

D-Rob

I don't peruse around H-T too often any more, but this one caught my eye.

For the love of all things holy, if you plan on making 600+hp on a stock K20 block, stick some stiff valve springs in the thing. The pistons won't break, and the rods won't bend if you know WTF you're doing tune-wise until about 800hp.

kturbosquirtle

if you want to donate springs and retainers by all means go ahead, dont know why people cant boost a stock motor. if im adding internals that motor isnt stock to me anymore its built, deff not doing that unless i dont mind claiming i have a fast built motor, rather have a semi fast stock motor

kturbosquirtle

appreciate the concern but i want numbers out a stock motor, meaning no upgrades. i want to test limits on a stock motor since no one on this site does **** like that, they want to add after market parts and boast about their power. im only here to show how much power a OEM out the factory motor can make without any internal upgrade. i dont see why people cant just see what im doing and support my goal instead of bashing me. if i dont have the money for upgrades like that why keep telling me something i "need" repeatedly :/ #oemmotorFTW

kturbosquirtle

Only reason i said im not upgrading even if its easy is becasue if im doing that i might as well do the whole head one time, idk about you guys but i pay a shop to do all work so i dont get held responsible. and paying someone countless timess to do upgrades as i go along is gunna be more money spent than me upgrading it all one time

kturbosquirtle

im more into seeing the hp limit of a OEM UNOPENED STOCK k20 and its potential with no upgrades.
im more into trying to make the most power without any upgrades. theres pleanty of people i know that have just springs and retainers and if i do the same then im just going to have the same set up as them, thats not different to me. the satisfaction of running a faster time than someone with a built motor will satisfy me alot. i blew countless motors in my time trying to learn limits this is just another one.

i inboxed you a month or so ago to seek further advice but you couldnt respond back so i decided to keep it stock
maybe next time i upgrade i can have the honor of having you reply .... if im lucky ofcourse

D-Rob

I'm rarely here, so if you PM'd me, it likely got overlooked. E-mail is the best means of contacting me, or calling my shop during business hours. I'm always down to help my fellow man, if my input is followed.

I wish you luck, but you're going to drop a valve before anything else happens. And when that does, kiss everything goodbye.

kturbosquirtle

may i have a way of contact with you i have a couple of questions, its crunch time and any advice will help sir

pogeeboy27

iTrader: (3)

3 second search reveals....
Contact Us - Innovative MotorWorks

pogeeboy27

iTrader: (3)

It's common sense. So were you able to get in contact with them or did you want one of us to do it for you also?

kturbosquirtle

i was hoping you could do that for me, inbox me when your ready to relay some messages to him, i have a couple, thanks for the initiative

1988dxsedan

iTrader: (2)

no disrespect taken. Didnt think I missed the point. Was only trying to draw the conclusion that 200 bucks in springs is cheaper than destroying an entire engine and starting over. Which we all already seem to know, and I think the OP knows it, just wants to be difficult I guess. Can always brag about the number on your stock k20 with only valve springs. Thats what drob does lol check his k series threads, he has already proven what stock k series will do (with valve springs of course)

GrantMC2

So, did this **** itself?

kturbosquirtle

No just bought parts

B and B

iTrader: (3)

Ya'll keep saying springs and retainers. I thought the K20 OEM retainers were chrome-moly, and I would like to know of any failures directly attributable to them.
I am running them with Ferrea 6000 and Ferrea locks with Rocket springs. I liked how they snapped tight on the Rockets
Replacing weak, tired stock springs, I can understand.
I assume the warning is about valve-to-piston contact and the resulting mayhem?

B and B

iTrader: (3)

Try holding them responsible and let us know how that goes.

Wow...Newb comes in dis-respecting a K engine Ninja

kturbosquirtle

you be iight

B and B

iTrader: (3)

I ain't mad, I has K20A/6spd also, setting.
What'd you buy?

kturbosquirtle

same motor

kturbosquirtle

no one with a k20 turbo car with feedback?