bluelights81

Ya Aradin, sorry, was a typo, I meant the H23 set. They're sitting in my living room along with the rest of my parts.

Broke the block down today, will be bringing it to the machine shop hopefully next week along with the crank to get balanced and micro-polished. I was pretty happy at the condition of the interior of the engine. I've always run Castrol synthetic since I've owned the car for 130K of the 188K miles on it. Couldn't have asked for a cleaner bottom end as well as the valve train in the head. I'm going to spend the time the block's gone to remove ABS and power steering. Also got my Innovative mounts and Kaizenspeed balance shaft delete kit in the mail! From what I've heard, this thing will barely move with those mounts.

bluelights81

Spent a few hours today removing the ABS modulator, lines, prop. valve, etc. Next is the removal of power steering and looking the rack. The block is sitting my trunk along with my crank because the shop are using are closed for the next week. Also came home to find the new oil pan I ordered and stop by my tuner's to pick up the ecu and the injectors, ID1000's.

accordturb96

you will like those ID's. I'm using the same and they run like stock

bluelights81

I had a hard time installing them in the manifold today. I have an AEM fuel rail and each one slid right in with some oil without a problem. However, on the manifold end, the existing o-rings that seat in the manifold (the ones the size of the injector's diameter) gave me some trouble. The injectors wouldn't fit with ease. I used a dremel tool and shaved some rubber off the o-ring (which I've read is normal). Eventually, they sat nice and tight and the fuel rail sat where it's supposed to, and is torqued down to spec. Looks awesome!!

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea typically you have give the manifold side seals a little bit of love, especially if the injectors have Viton o-rings, the material can make it difficult to seat them if it's a tight fit.

Although you can't go wrong with Injector Dynamics, they basically pioneered the injector technology a lot of other companies are basically copying and using as their own. Paul and Tony don't play around when it comes to injectors.

To give you an idea, at the Texas Speed Syndicated Spring Invitational a few weeks ago every single car in the 10 speed index spots were all running ID injectors and these guys make some serious, serious horsepower on all sorts of different fuels.

Flr Power

ID injectors are modded Bosh injectors.

Aradin

The innovative mounts are very good. I purchased the 75A set for my 5th gen awhile back and I am really impressed. The first day was rough and shaky but after about 100 miles the polyurethane broke in and they settled down. Now all I notice is crisper shifting and better engine response. The engine feels like a part of the car instead of just being suspended in the bay.

Flr Power

I have a set of Innovative engine mounts too but 2 of the 3 mounts had fitment problems as seen in pictures.
I politely wrote to them about quality issue and never got an answer.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

what motor/chassis?

My innovative mounts for my civic fit perfectly

Flr Power

F23 into Accord 98.

bluelights81

Mine's a 2000 coupe, don't know if that makes a difference, same motor though. Hope mine aren't like that. Everyone raves about them.

Flr Power

Well, the timing belt side mount was the worse since I also had to remove the top aluminum spacer to give the engine the proper alignment.
Not a good fit but now the engine is solid, I don't crack exhaust pipe and and no more wheel hop...

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

another question, when was this? like what year?

IIRC a few of their earlier mount designs for certain chassis had fitment issues that were resolved. However a number of low volume resellers still had these early kits on their shelves so some were shipped after the revisions

Flr Power

I bought my kit 2 years ago. When you look at the pictures posted by bluelights81, they look identical to mine.
I believe these kit were made for the prelude H22 motor.

bluelights81

Dropped off the block and crank a few days ago at the machine shop and discussed specs for the P2W clearances. Wiseco recommends 0.0025 however my tuner suggested we go 0.003. Turn around time should be no more than two weeks. New parts today from Honda. New master cylinder for the ABS deletion I'm doing, new front brake lines, non-ABS proportioning valve, water pump to thermostat pipe (as the old one was quite rusty), oil pump and new main bolts. I know most people re-use the main bolts, however considering how much money I already have into this project so far, for the cost, I figured it certainly wouldn't hurt. Going to spend the weekend prepping the bay for paint. Currently I have the wiring harness and everything out of the way. Think I'm going to go with a gun-metal gray. The car is silver with gun-mental wheels and the new engine and associated turbo parts will be a silver/black theme, so I think the gray will be nice.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I suggest you gasket match the oil pump at the very least, possibly clean up the casting on the inlet and outlet as well

bluelights81

Gasket match? Fill me in on what you mean. There's no gasket, only like a Hondabond seal I've seen when I disassembled the old one. And as far as porting the inlets and outlets, I've seen that done in others' posts. Does it make that much of a difference? I'm not opposed to doing it if it'll help.

Flr Power

Don't do anything to the oil pump and go with 0.0025 PTW unless you plan racing in the high desert heat of Death Valley.

bluelights81

USPS delivered my Bisimoto valve springs and retainers set today. Also got the 2 wire IACV installed with the nice adapter plate from Rosko Racing. Here's the manifold just about done, minus the throttle body.

scamp91ex

updates??

bluelights81

While waiting for the block to come back, I've managed to delete all the ABS and Power Steering components, cleaning up the engine bay a bit. Also managed to prime and paint the bay. Think the graphite came out awesome. Also got the intercooler mounted up and some mock piping. Man I'm getting excited!!

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea as soon as I can get the head off the block (2 bolts won't give up, tried drilling, extractors, etc. Gonna have to get my oxyacetylene rig out of storage and try not to melt the head lol) and get the motor out I'm going to repaint the bay in my accord. 25 years of other people not caring has left it dirty and nothing will clean it.

I hit a part of it with a generic can of white krylon and the difference between clean white and dirty OEM was blinding. I plan on painting it the proper way if I can get my compressor fixed, movers broke the outlet pipe off in the bung of the tank FML. The car is white but probably just needs to be repainted since it looks like a single stage maaco special. So I need to talk to my painter and figure out how expensive it's gonna be but I think I'm just gonna keep the bay white, maybe put some blue flake in it to blend it with the wheels.

Biggest pain is going to be replacing the burple interior with black pieces. Might just paint/dye everything and find black carpet then have the seats and door panels recovered. Wish I could make the kind of progress you have lol.

bluelights81

Well this project has been a long time coming. Been buying parts since December and have just gotten around to pulling the engine last month. Hopefully it can all start to come together now though. I usually only work on it 3 or 4 hours here and there, before and/or after work as I work nights.

And to be honest, that bay is can painted. I just did it last week. I used VHT's Graphite wheel paint, which I've used before on my wheels and loved the result. The car is silver and my engine bay theme is black/silver so I thought the graphite would be a nice background. Two or three coats of it on top of primer, along with 2 or three coats of wheel clear coat, and it actually came out very well. I don't intend this to be a show car by any means, or else I would've done a professional job and shaved it and spent a lot more time on the prep work. Like you, I just wanted something to freshen it up for the new engine. I only spent a few hours prepping it as well, pretty much only grinding all the seam sealer away with a wire brush tool on a drill and cleaning up any surface rust spots I had. Fortunately for me, being in the Northest, I've never driven the car in the winter, it was always stored, for the 13 years I've had it, so it was in really good condition with hardly no rust. Sprayed the cross members a gloss black and it looks as good as new.

welfarepc

For what its worth, I deleted the balance shafts in my F22A6 build and I run aftermarket mounts with the F22 in my Teg and it doesnt vibrate anything extreme or seem like its going to shake apart. How ever, at certain RPMs it does seem to resonate, perhaps from the lack of balance shafts.

Engine has about 15,000km on it, still runs great.

If you want to take a read:

http://www.d-series.org/forums/showc...greatness.html

bluelights81

As an update to the project, called the machine shop as they've had my block for 4 weeks. They are slammed but should be done next week. Also be dropping off my head for a full valve job with the following parts:

- Supertech Keepers
- Supertech Valve Seals
- Brand New OEM Honda Intake/Exhaust Valves
- Bisimoto's Spring/Retainers kit

Keeping busy with small odds and edds. Got the tranny painted and just got Fidanza's 9 lb flywheel delivered today. Will be ordering ACT's HA3-XTSS clutch with a week or two as money permits.