ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

I am starting a build thread, first one ever and im putting it on the forum mid-project and I might jump around a little since Ill be working on different sections of the vehicle concurrently.

First off I feel to a high degree that not only should attention be paid to the restoration, modification...etc of the vehicle but also to the service and maintain the vehicle at the same time to assure the reliabilty that Honda stresses.

Here I am disassembling, cleaning, rebuilding, the windshield wiper linkages with 316 Stainless Steel Hardware and relubricating the necessary areas.

builthatch

what an odd first post.

subscribed.

iamthefollower

can't wait to see what all is being done to this.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Rust repair

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Cant figure out why it will upload some photos and not others, any help HT?

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Rust bubbling that is now being repaired.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Another area of deep rust and pitting near the skirt on the drivers rear quarter.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Here I have cut out both areas of deep pitting. Epoxied in some aluminum strips with 3m auto mix panel bonding adhesive. The strips will help support body filler.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

All the rust has been cut out or ground through completely. I will be adding RCi fuel cell to trunk, thus have removed neck and support which helped me to get at the rust thoroughly. All bare steel will be coated with epoxy primer for guaranteed corrosion protection. I will be adding a brand new (cut from a complete new inner panel) well liner also using more 3m auto mix.

Former User

Your pictures seem fine. Can you be more specific?

And glad to see you back again and keeping us updated.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

My photos were too large, I have been reducing size and it has been working fine now.

Thanks.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

The trunk is nearly prepped and the oem tank has been dropped. All existing fuel lines have been removed. The trunk has been sanded down to bare metal in the rusty areas and down to primer in the rest. The trunk will be sprayed with pre clean, then epoxy, and finally paint.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Here is the patch panel, glued in with some 3m auto mix. As you can also see I have epoxied in a .1 in stainless steel sheet over the fuel filler hole since it will not be used. This way the inner panel will remain completely sealed to the roadway and all its elements for a clean and rust free design.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Another major area of rust and pitting that was repaired with a dewalt grinder and some evercoat.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

An update on the engine aspects. As of today I had had a b16 turbo, with stock sleeves and built bottom end pusting 360 hp as you can see in my video. I am employing and will continue to employ a Garrett GT3582R. A couple weeks after tuning my wrist pin shattered. The piston held on and I was able to salvage every thing but pistons and wrist pins. I currently have a b18c at ERL performance getting sleeved and bottom end built.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Here is old b16a with shattered pin. Engine being replaced with b18c ERL Performance sleeved and assembled bottom end with 83mm CP 10:1 manley turbo tuffs, I will be assembling a brand new ITR head onto the motor with all stock ITR components when I get it back from ERL Performance.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Here is the tiny junk shattered wrist pin. Lesson learned. Always get upgrade pins. Never buy SRP pistons.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Test fitting fuel system before paint. Here you can see the fuel pump and the post pump filter, both aeromotive.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Originally I was going to use your basic Earls Performo flex hose for fuel (hose on right). That was untill i read online to test the fuel in the line a couple days. After those couple days smell the hose. If the hose smells like fuel the fuel is seeping through and deterioating the lines. So I had to throw away the performo Flex and move up to Earls speed seal Teflon hose (on left). Teflon line is a much better product, PSI holding, life expectancy, durability, heat tolerance, and correct me if im wrong but has a lifetime warranty.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Another advantage teflon line has over rubber line is that teflon has a larger inner diameter while also having a smaller outer diameter than its rubber counter part. Teflon is also impervious to any chemicals it will enounter from the elements outside to the additives they put in fuel.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Here is my RCi fuel cell with some HCLA steel bracketry to securely hold down the 66lbs of fuel that will fill it. It was powder coated satin black.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Here we are with a simple test fit of the complete system prior to any paint or primer.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

As you can see I have the sump mounted rear ward so as I accelerate the fuel will be forced into the pre pump filter and then into the Aeromotive Tsunami pump. I cannot believe some peoples set ups with stand alone systems. I have seen the sump facing frontwards and the pump frontwards of the sump. I have seen people blatantly not following RCi 's instructions to not secure the cell with the tabs provided, but do so anyways (best example is the kiwi metallic integra featured in Honda Tuning.)


http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/f.../photo_13.html

link to that integra with improper mounting^^^^

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Bulk head lines ran to front. Bulk head fittings are great for maintaining a sealed pass through of fuel lines, so the elements outside stay out. The fuel system is much more easily serviced this way.

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Here is patch panel (inner well liner) finished glued mainly and welded in very few spots. This is my first time ever with body work and have no formal training so I will be playing the game as it comes.


Let me know what you think of my work HT.