drift2004

i had a p28 and chipped with hondata, i was always gettting a cell 14 so my idle always sucked. i bought a new p28 never been chipped before and i send it to go get chipped and when i turned on the car the ecu started to smoke. what could have cause the problem?

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

Who did you mail it into get chipped ?
That soldering job really doesn't look all that great.

Also it looks like your IC4 74HC373 slot is still empty, almost like they replace the coexisting IC9 module instead....

We always include a warning with ecus we perform work on stating:
If you recently performed a motor swap, a common mistake is to burn q31 on the ecu by mixing up the 2 wire plugs on the engine harness!

(Intake air temperature sensor should be a green wire & red/yellow stripe wire. (on most vehicles)


The ecu is probably still usable.
Remove q31 and repair the wiring issue with the vehicle.

0xenocron

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The ecu is probably still usable.
Remove q31 and repair the wiring issue with the vehicle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

IAT plug is a Green and Red wire correct?

Dont plug ANYTHING with a yellow/black wire into the IAT sensor.

Also, now check your IAT sensor to make sure it isnt melted itself...

You can also Cut J1 on the ECU and do the following test with J1 cut and the ECU plugged in:

Turn Key to ON position (Key On, Engine Off) and watch the CEL light. It should go on for 2 seconds and then clear off. The fuel pump should prime during this time as well.

drift2004

thanks for your help!

i had sent it to a electronic place local to my house, they has done another ecu for me with no problem.

Also it looks like your IC4 74HC373 slot is still empty, almost like they replace the coexisting IC9 module instead.
what is that i dont know much about the ecu unless you show me.

You can also Cut J1 on the ECU and do the following test with J1 cut and the ECU plugged in:
where is j1 i can seem to find it?

for the burn q31 can i use anyone from any ecu or does it have to be a p28?

the funny thing about it i have not changes any wiring what so ever, just the ecu, and it worked before without melting the ecu but ill try it out. if not i will replace it thanks!

0xenocron

J1 is in the Top-Right Hand Section of the red outlines area in that blurry pic

drift2004

hey so your saying to physically cut it out? or desoder the points?

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

Better picture

Juan_Mitosis

HEY! I Just opened my ECU because of a solid CEL + Limp mode. and noticed my Q31 is also burnt! What could've caused this? Could it have had been mixing up the TPS and map sensor plug or something? Anyways I'm gonna solder this myself right now, I'll let you guys know the results!

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

The burnt Q31 is almost always the result of someone plugging in the Evap purge solenoid plug into the IAT plug. This is a very very common thing to happen.

Just remove the piece in the ecu and fix your wiring and you should be good to go. Normally the ecu will function just fine witout Q31 there.

And to do Xenocron's test.. just cut the J1 jumper. Also can you please take a picture of the top of the ecu as well, in the area where the chip is.

iBrandon

that soldering job is horrible....

Reason why it burnt out is because like stated above, the two plugs were crossed on your harness..

Just take a pair of wire cutters and snip the j1 wire in half and separate the ends so they are not touching...that will default it back to the stock ecu program.