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I was thinking I’d print out the drawings of each viable option to do a thorough check.

I just wonder when comparing pusher vs puller, how much efficiency is lost? For example would a 1250cfm puller still work better than a 1500cfm pusher?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Its not really a question of "efficiency". You still have to remember that the air speed of the air coming into the radiator over 40 mph is still faster than any 1500cfm fan can produce "pushing", especially ewhen the fan itself has itself become an obstruction for air flow directed into the radiator itself. You can shift a 12" slightly lower to be below the wastegate, but it's still better to make simple cardboard measurements based upon the fan schematics.

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I did what you suggested, made a cardboard cutout to represent the fan, shifted it as low as possible and offset to the passenger side. The waste gate still overlaps the fan by a couple of inches. And where the diagram shows the fan has a minimum thickness of 1.10", the waste gate is only about 0.75" away from the radiator.

Pretty bummed, I just don't think it's going to fit. The air flow of the smaller fans don't even come close to the 12", and I would still need to check to be sure if a 12" pusher would even fit.

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On the schematic you show one wire coming from the temp sensor, which is a two wire sensor. I assume I can run the other wire to a ground? And does it matter which wire goes where?

Also, should my 30A fuse go on the + wire to the fan?

Thanks,

2kdrift

one of the wires already goes to ground, I would test for ground and leave the grounded wire alone and wire up the other one. But realistically no it does not matter which wire goes to ground if you want to rewire it altogether.


your fuse should be at the source of + so that both the relay and fan are fused, as close to the battery as possible

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Ahh okay, thanks a bunch! This has been helpful stuff, for a wiring noob.

Dammit, I almost want to just get the puller fan and cram it in there, the more I read about all the benefits of it. Wastegate will just rub on the plastic a lil

I'd literally have to move my wastegate, get the manifold re-welded, and a new dump tube fabricated to remedy this. I have no fab tools/abilities and don't even know of a place that could do this, so I'm kinda screwed there.

2kdrift

up to you I really haven't had any issues with my pusher, lots of people run it this way

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Question, hopefully the last one, before I finish up this wiring because I want to get it right.

You show a battery hot powering the fan, should this not be an ignition "on" source though instead? If I turn off the ignition and the engine is still hot, will the fan stay on until it cools down and drain my battery?

Thanks!

2kdrift

yes I would use s ignition source rather then going directly to the battery, that was simply done for a simplistic image.

actually stock wiring keeps the fan on after key is turned off so either way is fine I suppose, it does not drain your battery since the fan only stays on to about 185 (depending on your ECU settings) and then turns the fan off

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Alrighty I guess I’ll weigh the pros and cons of wiring to battery or ignition. Was worried that the 13 amp draw of the fan would drain the battery, but if not then it might be better to help cool it down more after the car is shut off.

Thanks! I’m excited to try my hand at some wiring like this as I have never done it before. Planning to solder and heat shrink all connections, and use a deutsch connector to the fan for ease of removal.

2kdrift

those "13" amps are only active when the switch is triggered so anything below 195 degrees should not be pulling anything from the battery. I know with my OEM wiring the fan will stay on for like 30 seconds at most after a spirited drive and turning my car off. Technically your supposed to let it idle for a minute or so till your fans turn off with turbo anyway you dont want that super hot oil to coke up in the turbocharger

2x0

Alright I got the pusher fan, everything looks like it’ll fit I just need to find time to do the wiring.

I’d like to put an indicator LED inside so I know when the fan is on. There should be no issue if I run a wire branching off the + wire going to the fan for this LED, then run that to it’s own ground inside right? Or will this burn something up?

Also, I have plenty of 16ga wire on hand for this, and it appears to be the same gauge wire that came on the fan motor plug. Is this size wire going to be sufficient or do I need to get some 14 or 12 gauge?

2kdrift

yes this is fine, but completely useless IMO your fan should be cycling on and off throughout your drive, and its a spal you should be able to hear it slightly.

If your set on this first off most leds run off about 5v so you need to get one with a built in resistor add your own resistor or get a LED that specifically says it runs off 12v. I would not even use 16 GA I would personally use the smallest wire I could find I.E. 20-26 GA. The LED pulls next to no amperage usually rated in MA

2x0

Alright thanks. Yeah I did pick up an LED that says it’s for 12V. I’m going to install it just because I am a newb at wiring mostly and this way I’ll be 100% sure anytime the fan is getting power. I’ll know if it’s not on due to bad wire connection, relay, thermo switch etc. I figure why not, it’s peace of mind.

Forgot to insert pics of the fan. I think this will work nicely even as a pusher. This 12” flows higher CFM than the two fans combined that I had previously, plus it covers the entire radiator and should provide good cooling being that it is away from the exhaust and turbo now. Hopefully I don’t have any more high ect issues.


Yeah I know it’s on the wrong side of the rad, just checking the fitment of it.

2kdrift

same fan I got, IMO if you still have issues you will need to look twards other areas

2x0

Alright guys, I am confused AF.

I've spent about two hours looking at every picture and diagram I can find of where the fan switch is supposed to be. My thermostat housing DOESN'T HAVE A FAN SWITCH! Like, not even a place to put a fan switch. How is that possible? Did they somehow fit a housing from a different engine on here that doesn't have the switch in that location?

This kind of explains maybe why the fans were wired to a toggle switch in the first place. I drew in blue where the fan switch plug should be.

boosted94gsr

2x0

Okay great, I will look into that! If you have any info on how I would wire that into the ecu, it would be appreciated as well so I can keep moving on this today.

Edit: Found so far that it is pin A12 on the ecu. How do I find this pin first of all?

Also, do I go from a 12V source to the relay, then to pin A12? Or do I go from a ground source?

boosted94gsr

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Found A12, already had a wire in it. Got my relay all hooked up. Now I just need a decent enough day to take the car outside and let it run up to full temp to see if it works

boosted94gsr

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seelback

awesome, glad to hear you got it figured out. hopefully when the heat comes it will do its job.