BfromSD

Running an eagle ultra-light 27lb crank my oil pump gear(pr3) exploded at 8xxx miles after build , could it be from the lighten crank?

What crank will get me down the track faster or make more power?

Setup:2.0LsVtec, aebs sleeves, w/eagle ultra-light crank & rods, Je 9:1, 12lb ACT flywheel, sprung 6puck clutch, performance+ harmonic damper pulley, ARP head/main studs, Rev valvetrain, Gsr cams, Balanced bottem end, garrett 60-1/t3, ported polished head, aebs intake manifold, 70 mm skunk2 throttle body, hondata s300, 1000 cc injectors, moroso oil pan and pickup, hondata intake gasket.

turbo-crx

it might be the brand of dampner you have.

BfromSD

The pulley has to be better than stock...

What crank should I run?

DLB1994

i have allways heard bad things about kinfe edged cranks , so i would think its something to do with that

miller

Ok I see a couple things, first is that you have main studs and since you have main studs you HAVE to align hone the block if that wasnt done that could be the issue. Now if it was done correctly and align honed, when doing so i dont run the dowels in the oil pump which i see you have. When you align hone the block you cut caps and then hone the mains back to round and back to the correct size. When you do this you move the crank center line and that can cause binding of the oil pump gear and breakage like you experienced.

GodFather of Boost

I agree with Miller but I think it is only when you align bore the mains. I think a hone wont throw it off that much.
Also a lighter crank will send more vibration to the oilpump. Did you know that a type-R crank is 5lbs heavier than a gsr? Hmmm

killerB16A

i had a stock b16a engine and i had the same problem...my oil pump blew up! it had about 70k on it.

SilverEk3dr

wow thats the second knife edged crank I've seen that ended up with all kinds of spun bearings on it.

95civicgsr

hmm once i got near 800whp with my itr i had issues with my oil pumps shattering every 4 or 5 passes til i put the ati on there then i would freshen up the bearings and oil pump every 25 passes. i had the block align bored then align hones and still used the dowel pins,hadnt really thought about this til i saw your post. sorry to get off topic.

BfromSD

Yes when I built the motor I had the mains align honed with the ARP studs and then plastic gauged all the bearings to make sure they were within spec. I have not hurd of running no dowels on the oil pump but can see how it will allow for some ajustment if the crank is moved up.

The car needed to be retuned sence I had added parts. Switching from a t3/4 turbo to a 60-1/t3 ballbearing turbo, obd0 b16 cams to GSR's and adding a 70mm TB, MSD 6al+, MSD coil, MSD plug wires, and a MSD fuel pump.

Hear is the old dyno running the t3/4e 60trim with b16 cams and c16 for gas:



The boost controller(Greddy profecB) was maxed out at 21psi useing the 7psi WG spring. I have switched to a 1bar spring for next time I hit the dyno, looking for 25+ psi.

HiProfile

The problem is 98% of places that align-hone dont expect to do it for Hondas. Other motors don't mind the crank centerline changing, but on a Honda it can cause the oil pump gear to bind. Assembling it w/o the dowels will let it self-align to the new crank centerline. You just have to be VERY careful it's not where it shouldn't be. Given the pump is some very hard steel, it will shatter before it bends.

zeekbuilt

iTrader: (2)

go with the stock crank

and switch drivers

N.Y.C.E.

eagle cranks are no good to me, I had 2 cranks where the snot was off. put a gage on the snot, spin the crank, see if the cranks snot is correct.

Kris's turbo

I have always been told to double check the balance of the eagle cranks, did you have your machine shop balance your crank?

BfromSD

Yeah I did and it came back with material removed. But so did the ACT flywheel, Action clutch, eagle rods, and the aftermarket pulley.

I will be running the STOCK crank this season and switching to the ATI pulley. Gona try to use the eagle crank on an allmotor LsVtec daily driver setup.

LShatchie

F*ck those cranks, oem all the way baybay

djtrini

yup. I had an Eagle Crank and sold it before I even used it in the Build. my Builder checked the Balance on it, and told me to get rid of it. I stuck w/ OEM and made 505whp/360ft pounds tq w/ zero crank issues!

96 GSR-T

What are you shopping out of a Jeg's catalog? Save your money on the MSD box it is not needed and its proven to be unreliable on a majority of Honda's, and just buy a regular Walbro 255hp not a MSD fuel pump. Alot of people pick up 40-50hp swapping from GSR cams to ITR cams, something you should consider.......

96 GSR-T

What are you shopping out of a Jeg's catalog? Save your money on the MSD box and coil it is not needed and its proven to be unreliable on a majority of Honda's, and just buy a regular Walbro 255hp not a MSD fuel pump. Alot of people pick up 40-50hp swapping from GSR cams to ITR cams, something you should consider.......

BfromSD

Walbro makes MSD pumps and I just upgraded to GSR cams for free, their are better places to spend my money than $300 on ITR cams.. Like an LSD or 3''downpipe. Also got the MSD 6al used for $50 and it works fine. My tuner(Shawn Church) told me that I needed it if I wanted to push the setup any futher.