jdm_h22

Thanks for your first-hand input. Btw, I read through your thread last night. Well done, sir. Very impressed with your build.

As far as the ignition, I guess I can appreciate both lines of reasoning, where the most realistic line of reasoning falls somewhere right in the middle.

Do I need a full blown aftermarket ignition system? I'd say no. But I do see the advantages of supplementing the stock system to perform at a higher level. I'll probably experiment with a smaller gap in addition to some research on reasonably priced upgrades, say within $200-300.

h2.4

When I got to the part about fuel systems, fittings, and fuel pressure. I was thinking the exact thing as D-Rob. I was like, why doesn't he just gap the plugs down to find out. You could go crazy listening to some advice here. Not that it's bad advice. But for the OP's symptoms, I would think it's spark blowout. Regapping the plugs would've been the first thing I would try. It's free and takes 5 minutes.

Nottheonion

Qft

Shook my head so much at this thread

LightningTeg

Accel makes an aftermarket internal, direct swap coil you can get at O'Reilly auto parts for $50. It made an improvement for me, but not what a standalone or COP would do. May help your issues if gapping down further or plug change doesnt help.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

^^ This can work as a start. The ignition module box and other supplementals can be had for under $300 also. But as LightningTeg stated, try the Accel module.

Accel Ignition Coils SKU: 6016-03000604 Super HEI Intensifier Kit;-- These are about $50-$60

Accel vs. Stock ICM

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Everything you've done you've done the right way.

It's definitely not a fuel or EMS related issue. It's more than likely just spark blowout. Gapping the plugs down will confirm this. If you gap them down and nothing changes then it's likely an ignition related issue and you'll have you start looking at those components to determine the problem.

jdm_h22

First, thank you all for your input.

So, I bought the Accel ignition coil ($39 @ O'reilly's!!) and installed it last night.






As a precaution, I bought a new cap and rotor aswell. And I'm glad I did. They looked A LOT worse than I expected. Probably older than I claimed. I noticed some white residue near the edge of the cap and some rust on the rotor shaft. I'm wondering how water got in....







The Accel coil fitment was less than desirable. I had to shim the coil inward. Otherwise the o.e. plastic shroud would not fit properly, nor would with cap seat properly. Crazy!










Pulled the spark plugs. I measured 024-.025 Brought them all down to .022-.023

What do you think about the color, though? Is this normal? Spots on the ground electrode?

jdm_h22

I test drove the car afterwards and feels good. Maybe a placebo effect but it seems to idle and cruise more smoothly.

Up high she breaks traction as usual. No way of telling if things have cleaned up until I can put it back on the dyno.

Stay tuned.

D-Rob

The plugs have too much drive time on them to tell me anything useful regarding the tune.

If you've driven, idled, etc on a set of plugs for more than a moment or two, the information is worthless.

Gap the plugs to .020" and work your way out on the dyno. I run plugs pretty tight, because having to regap a plug every run is a huge pain in the dick, just to find that on a cold night, the plugs need to be gapped tighter than a warm dyno bay.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Plus I would expect that due to the ignition breakup during tuning that the high rpm/load part of the ignition map probably isn't perfect so take that into account as well.

Best thing to do would be to get a fresh set of plugs, gap them to .020, go do a pull in say 2nd gear, shut it down right away and pull the plugs. You're likely going to have to do some ignition map cleanup.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I would agree with both people here. A new set of plugs will give a much more accurate reading and give a few more positive results. I'd personally gap a little higher to start to about .25" or so, closer to .28" and go down from there, to see if its the plug choice, etc.

I'm sure the cap/rotor being that old didn't help things either.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Did the cap have an o-ring on it when you took it off?

Moisture inside the cap could explain the breakup. I can see slight signs of erosion on the cap contacts.

jdm_h22

It sure did. It was rigid though!! Haha

welfarepc

eCtune can easily datalog voltage during a pull. You can do it yourself on the street.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Does eCtune have the ability to control the alternators charging cycle?

If those settings are wrong it could easily cause a voltage drop.

welfarepc

Hmmm, I know it does offer ELD control, but IIRC that is only during deceleration in gear.