Stock@$$GSR

Say you buy everything new, as in the pistons, rods, crankshaft, flywheel, and clutch. Do you still need to balance any of these parts? I read that aftermarket parts are already balanced, is this true?

99B16Si

most quality parts are built to such fine tolerances that its not usually an issue. but of course it couldnt hurt.

TeStUdO

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stock@$$GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Say you buy everything new, as in the pistons, rods, crankshaft, flywheel, and clutch. Do you still need to balance any of these parts? I read that aftermarket parts are already balanced, is this true?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well as for crank rods and pistons, its always good to balance the rotating assembly.

TurboDANDEE

i wouldnt think aftermarket parts need to be balance, but if you're **** about things like that, it wouldnt hurt to get them as close as possible to each other.

I've never done it before and i rev my car 9500-10k all the time with no problems

rtype11

yes you should atleast statically balance all reciprocating parts,separately pistons, rods, wrist pins, and rings, using a accurate lab type scale. make note and number each part, then assemble acording to the weights so that all assemblies are the same. being 5 grams out of balance on a honda piston can feel like 30lbs at high rpm twisting the crank.

Flamenco-T

Most afetrmarket pistons and rods are pretty much about 1-2 grams off of each other...again, at this point, it is considered pretty much balanced. You can't never get a true balancing of internals parts, as oil splashes, carbon build up, oil running down each rod can throw each number off...

I.E. it is a good idea to have them weight, just to make sure they're within 1-2 grams of each other, but you don't have to be too **** about it..

stan

earl

Stan is right. I was at ACT Clutches and watched them balance every clutch and flywheel before they were packaged. Most better made pistons and rods come balanced. If you want to run in excess of 7000 rpm, you probably want to balance your crank, however. It is the one item that never seems to be in balance when checked.

lazerus

my local shop usually does balancing on parts to within a 1/2 gram... I had a stock isuzu bottom end balanced, and they only ended up taking .5 grams off one end of the crank, everything else was below that...go figure, but cost me $100 bucks anyway!

if you buy rods or pistons in less than one "set" i would check to make sure tehy are balanced with the rest of them, i've seen rods be up to 8 grams off!

ZoRG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most afetrmarket pistons and rods are pretty much about 1-2 grams off of each other...again, at this point, it is considered pretty much balanced. You can't never get a true balancing of internals parts, as oil splashes, carbon build up, oil running down each rod can throw each number off...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dunno if oil splashes has anything to do with balance, since in order for something to contribute to balance, it needs to stay and form part of the movement... oil does cause drag, however at 5000G's the oil cannot stay on the rods to cause any balance problems?? or can it?

If you look at spoon engines they balance pistons and rods to within .1grams of each other, you can pick up a labratory scale that measures up to .05grams spend a few hours and balance the pistons and rods to .1 or .05 grams... a Scale will set you back 270$, a good investment compared to what a shop will charge you everytime you go to balance something.