Bailhatch

I have the controller completely built (in a US military EE lab btw ) and I am confused as to what the purpose of this calibration resistor (J10 and J9) is and how I am supposed to arrive at it's value. The only referance I can find is on the testing procedure page but it does not anwser my questions. Any help would be much appreciated.

edit- is this the same resistor that is in the plug of some WB O2s, or possibly to control the heat-up time???


Modified by Bailhatch at 1:03 PM 3/5/2004

omahaturbocivic

I dont remember doing anything with it on mine. I did have to add some resistors for the heater circuit so it would heat up quicker. I am very curious with this too because my diy reads a bit richer than it is really is. I street tuned a car for 12 and it was approaching 13 on the dyno. I was just gonna tune a flat air fuel on the dyno next week and then throw mine in and see what it reads and use that as a reference but if I could maybe put a potentiometer there maybe I could calibrate mine at the dyno.

Bailhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omahaturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont remember doing anything with it on mine. I did have to add some resistors for the heater circuit so it would heat up quicker. I am very curious with this too because my diy reads a bit richer than it is really is. I street tuned a car for 12 and it was approaching 13 on the dyno. I was just gonna tune a flat air fuel on the dyno next week and then throw mine in and see what it reads and use that as a reference but if I could maybe put a potentiometer there maybe I could calibrate mine at the dyno.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hummm, how did you know the heater circut needed more resistance? because of how long the LED was on/off?

I thought I read about calibrating the controler by holding it in open air and changing something to make it 0 out. I can't seem to find it now that I really need it apparenty reasearch owns me...

omahaturbocivic

Yea I just added them untill it took about 45 seconds for the light to turn on or whatever like the instructions said. I built this over a year ago so I dont remember all the specifics. Mine went close to like 3.9x volts when deaccelerating and hung out around 2.4x while cruising most of the time so I figured it was good to go. I used it in a car that flooded it with carbon and had serious issues before I tuned the other car that went to the dyno so that might have been half my problem why mine seemed off. I drove it around on my car for a few hundred miles after all this and it did seem to read a little weird at first but now it seems normal so maybe mine just burned all the carbon off. I still dont fully trust it though so I would like to know if I can recalibrate it.