civicmark

ok, so i'm welding my own turbo manifold, and i've ran into a problem. so the holes on the head are oval, and the pipes i'm going to use will be circular (i'm building it like a rev hard, and using circular plumming pipes.) my Q is how did u guys who made them go around this? did u bend the pipes into ovals, or just use circular pipes that were big enough to fit all the way around the hole, but have an overhang? (I'll put up a pic to show what i mean by this)


oh and by the way, paint owns j00

civicmark

ttt~

Joseph Davis

Crush circular pipes in a vise until ovular.

:>

Dee

Or port the flange after the primaries have been added

Phoenix GSR

most people port the sides out, and just leave the overhang on the top.. it isnt perfect but it is cheap!... the best way is to smash the pipes to oval, but it is hard.. schedule 40 pipe is strong.. you have to have a really big vise and a blowtorch

Tinker219

I usually just weld the suckers on. I have not noticed a problem. But ya, crusing to oval would be optimal.. I think Im going to be doing that on my manifolds from now on..

TURBO18

Don't worry about it. It keeps the exhaust from traveling back in the exhaust port during times of high back pressure...

paulzy

iTrader: (1)

yeap, heat it up and you can form it with a vise or a hammer

civicmark

ok, so now i've got another Q:
i'm going to cut the exhaust gasket out of 1/2" steel. I was wondering, how off can it be, without having to have it milled? If the piece i'm cutting it out of is straight, and i bolt it down when i weld it, so it wont warp, do you think it'll be ok? Also, for anyone that has made their own gasket how did you cut it? Mine will be a simple enough shape to cut with my school's shop's circular saw, but i was also thinking about torch cutting it, but i'm not sure if that would warp it or not.
thanks again
pics would be great too

shortyz

why dont u just buy a gasket?

also u gotta heat the pieces up and use a sledge on em.. they are tough as ****.

or put em in massive shop press..

civicmark

i'd buy one, but i'm a kid, with very little $, plus i can get the material for free
and there's a hydrolic press in our shop, so i dont think i'll even need to heat it up, and if i do, then i'll pull out a gas torch and get to work

Joseph Davis

Well, I didn't use any heat... I just got the biggest vise known to man and alternated hanging off it and jumping on it. It did take a while to get the pipe ovular... next time I'll slap a torch on it.

As far as flange warpage when assembling... do some light stitch welds so you don't overheat the flange. I wouldn't care to weld one together without an old head to use as a jig. If you have any mild warpage, you can heat the flange, when bolted to the head, to unwarp it.

As far as exhaust gasket... I alternate between not running one and reusing the EOM steel one. I can't tell a difference, and I only spring small leaks when I go on 400+ mile trips without stopping... but I also used 3/8" flange, which I attribute my leakage problems to. I just loosen all exhaust bolts and re-torque, and the problem goes away. For normal daily driving, and full days of raising hell around town and on the Parkway, the manifold is bulletproof.

civicmark

so do you think it would be ok to torch cut the exhaust flange? and how flat does the flange have to be? or, how much warpage will the exhaust gasket correct?thanks for the advice too

civicmark

bump

civicmark

one last bump, to see how much warpage an exhaust gasket will correct
thanks

edit: without it having to be milled


[Modified by civicmark, 9:26 PM 2/25/2003]

Paluce

if the out of flat is visably noticable, it's not going to work. If your using a height gage to measure your flatness then different gaskets will seal different out of flats.


can you get some .100" copper? then you could use that for your gasket. and it should seal well.