justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

this is issue im having with my turbocharged integra. i was doing some datalogging to find out why my vehicle would stall out while riding in neutral or coming to a stop. in my logs i noticed that the TPS would drop first and then everything else would follow suit in which would equal to my vehicle to stall out. i checked the calibration on my TPS, which i installed a few years back on my blox throttle body. when i installed it originally it was reading at 0.5 volts closed and 4.5 volts at WOT. when i checked it this time, it was .38 volts closed and 4.38 volts at WOT. not sure how it managed to drop on its own but i tried to re-calibrate it to find out that i couldnt reach .5 volts. i let the car sit for a few days and when i tried to start the vehicle i noticed that the battery had died, i soon had the battery fully charged so i can continue to work on it. once it was done i was able to start the vehicle but my TPS was still reading low. swapped out the TPS with a new one i purchased at NAPA, still same results. now i feel that i shouldnt have touched the TPS because i cant get the car to stay on once i give it gas. i did clean the iacv but the results remain the same.

i did some research and some of the symptoms ive experience such as: sputter, stalling and fluctuating idle can be caused by the IACV. funny thing is im having these issues with no code being shown on the dash. would it be a good idea for me to replace the IACV or be looking into something else? i mean, i cant get the TPS to read at .5v for some reason which is confusing me. i have found some replacement IACV on ebay for around $60 while places like NAPA have them for around $180+. id rather spend $60 to see if thats the issue than spend $180 and find out thats not the issue. any suggestion?

oh yeah, the IACV is OEM that came with my car, in 1995.

specs:
b18c1
84mm CP pistons 9:1
manley turbo tuff rods
STC predator turbo
synapse auto ramhorn
walbro 255lph
precision 1000cc injectors
crane cam external coil
summit racing ignition box
send it racing ICM bypass
elderbrock victor X
hondata s300

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

How was the car driving right after the tune? Were there any symptoms at that time? or has this not been tuned yet? what's the timeline here? Rochester /Lucas injectors can be a bitch to tune the mllisecond time delay on such "drippy" injectors. These aren't bosch with a nice spray pattern. These are Delphi.. which are messy.

Also, not every code in the world will be thrown up even from Hondata with each hiccup.

So, before all of the other hardware, (other than finding a nice OEM TPS instead of that Blox ****), have a look at the software in terms of tuning (or have it interpolated for you) to look in that area as well.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

with my old build it was running fine even though i was losing water. with this current build ive noticed the issues i have been experiencing now. its tuned to the wastegate but my tuner wants me to put more miles on the block before he does a full tune. i did send the logs to my tuner so he can view them and he suggested that i need to adjust my throttle within the software and not to adjust the TPS itself and also open the throttle slightly using the throttle screw (which seem to have fallen out). i did do these things after i tried to recalibrate the TPS itself but i was getting the same results. ill try to find another screw/bolt that can fit inside of my throttle body to try and open the throttle slightly again to see if it helps.

time wise, i had it tuned to the wastegate about 7 months or so ago, but i dont drive this vehicle daily. i believe i have the old tune in my email that i could load up to see how it runs under boost BUT i still need to figure out why my vehicle stalls out when i give it gas. i do have the OEM tps installed on the throttle body but im confused as why i cant calibrate it to .48 volts. before i could and now i cant, its very strange and odd. im going to look at my msd rotor to see the condition of it. while doing my research someone found that their rotor was the issue, sounds really strange but who knows. anything else i could look into?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Well, it's definitely something in the throttle body. I'd have a new screw (didn't know if it was OEM or not), but I agree that neither the TPS nor the IACV be physically touched. For now, this needs to have the throttle screw adjusted, and go to the software and see if idle can be higher (as though you were running an A/C compressor) during deceleration. (I found that out in my software when running the GSCs).

I also agree with more break-in mileage. In fact, I wouldn't have tuned at all until that was completed. Because now, you just have to go back again.. ..

So, I think you're going in the right direction, it's just a matter of getting the replacement parts and attacking them one by one. Those Delphi injectors don't help the problem, either.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

ill do what you and my tuner suggested. when my tuner "tuned" the current setup, it wasnt at WOT i believe. i just needed a new map for the setup even though it is damn near the same as my old watery block. same parts just a new home for it to sit in but i just wanted a map to go with it so i can drive it with a piece of mind.

my idle target is 1k rpm, but why would the vehicle die when i open the throttle? sometimes i just wish my car would tell me the problem rather than me trying to figure it out

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Trust me. Most of the time you don't want it to talk to you. It be a gibberishly-broken English that only points to an area of your issue, but not exactly what it is.
Stalling at open throttle means that too much fuel is being used without enough oxygen pulled into vacuum. Like I said.. Injectors are pouring fuel in, and not atomizing.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

back from the grave and i still cant get my car to stay on while giving it gas/open the throttle. i havent worked on my car everyday but i have changed quite a bit of things since i last made a post here about it.
things i have changed/tried out:
bought new 1k cc injectors
new ecu
cap and rotor
cheap ebay distributor
added fresh gas, didnt drain the 2-3 gallons left in tank but this problem was happening before i parked the car
changed map sensor gasket
changed iacv gasket
choked the engine to see possible air leak
swap OEM throttle body
changed IM gasket
changed different IACV
swap TPS with another OEM tps
swap MAP sensor from Omni to OEM
checked main relay
swap fuel pump to OEM
new spark plugs, gap at .025 the same as my old spark plugs

i cant for the life of me figure what the hell is going with this motor as why it doesnt want to corporate. i havent changed the spark wires due to the reason i would have to crimp the spark wires to work with my MSD cap, but the wires look to be fine to me. the one thing that i may have concern with, and its a long shot, is the wire connections that are located by the battery in the engine bay. there are 4 connections some of them have oil residue on them and i dont have the proper cleaner to clean the harness. could this be an issue? i seriously doubt it because after inspection the female and male ends look perfectly clean. also, a friend of mine has loaned me his chasebay engine wire harness, that he never used, just in case i have to swap the engine wire harness out to see if that will solve the problem. i really dont want to go to this extent but im starting to run out of options and becoming more and more desperate to drive my vehicle at the same time just simply give up. any ideas/help?

K7-1Ktrevor

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

when i installed the OEM map sensor i updated a stock map and switch the MAP sensor on my current tune within hondata. the problem still remained.

K7-1Ktrevor

2kdrift

possible to do some datalogs and put them on here? pretty sure this is a tunning issue and not mechanical. you mentioned re calibrating the tps voltage did you also sync it within hondata?

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

positive. because this problem became worst over time.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

yes i did i believe. i reset what is closed and WOT. as for the datalog i can do that as well. ill record what i get from it and upload the video to youtube and post it here. is there a specific tab you want me to focus on for the video?

boosted94gsr

2kdrift

The graph Mistly wanted to see what your AFR's are like when issues occour. screenshot should be fine

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

i dont mind doing a video. sadly this thread was moved to another section and i know itll die in its current location.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

i have precision 1000cc, the same ive been running for a few years already. as for the reading on the map sensor i can get that for you. im in texas and working in my garage during the day is a death sentence so i have to wait for the evening

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

here is video showing what you guys were asking for. hopefully we can figure out what is wrong with my car. i do more if you need it.

2kdrift

yup he always does that .....

cant tell much as your AFR is not on the graph and its in lambda
send me the data log so I can play with the graph...also you should chnage your AF readings from lamba to AFR (its in the options), like to see the fuel map also still looking at your injector settings, its set to 900cc in your tune but I guess if it was running this way before should be fine

2kdrift@gmail.com

2kdrift

why is your idle all over the place? vacuum leak?

if my lambda conversion is working properly your AFR is super rich whats fuel pressure at?

AFR is dropping to 10:1 when you give it gas thats super low you want it at 14.7 - 13.5 in vacuum. assuming you have your wideband setup properly

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

ill send you the datalogs and map via email as you suggested. as for my idle, i still dont have a clue as to why its all over the place. the TPS is only place where i dont have a proper gasket in place i meant to use liquid gasket but i havent gone around to do it. from what i remember air doesnt enter that chamber of the throttle body (blox 70mm). i do have a AEM wideband and it just shows that it is leaning out completely while its running and if i have a vacuum leak i can not find it for the life of me.

my tuner just set the 900cc even though i told him they were 1000cc injectors years ago when i first built this motor. side note: this isnt my first build but its the basically the same parts.

2kdrift

yea I think I remember your issues with the old block,

no gasket at tb would cause vacuum leak but liquid rtv or even cardboard should seal it good enough. you can spray carb or brake cleaner arround to find the vacuum leak

2x0

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

im not sure what that is set at. but my tuner did send me an updated map which didnt fix anything. i think i may have a mechanically issue that cant seem to figure out.