QuarterMileMaster

I'm needing to vent my block and valve cover due to the fact that I'm going to run 23-25psi of boost on top of my 10:1 c/r. I really don't want to have to use 2 seperate tanks/systems or pay $$$$ for them either. This is my idea, make one big tank and run the block and valve cover to it then drain it back to the block. Also, put some steel wool in it to act as a baffling.



Would this work?

If so, how do I need to put the steel wool in to be an effective baffle or would there be something better to use?

a1320addict

iTrader: (1)

Looks similar to Tony1's setup, works for sure

Also just want to add, that is the most descriptive thing I've ever seen done in MS Paint, props for your patience with it LOL

QuarterMileMaster

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a1320addict &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks similar to Tony1's setup, works for sure

Also just want to add, that is the most descriptive thing I've ever seen done in MS Paint, props for your patience with it LOL </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's right, I remember I saw something similar to it before. Do you know how he did the baffling?

Haha, thanks for the props, I use paint for everything. haha

QuarterMileMaster

I've heard of people using steel wool for the baffling and I've also heard of people using pieces of sheet metal to do it. Does anyone have any pics or descriptions on how this needs to be configured or placed inside the canister?

DaveF

you are better off putting the ones that go into the back of the block @ the lowest point on your catch can, so it will vent when needed, then also drain back, so it is a damn near maintenance free setup. also, use a good sized filter on the top of the can as well. something with a 1inch opening or larger.

you dont need baffles.

pheurton-skeurto

ive heard of people using those luaffas (&lt;--sic). those girl-puffy-shower-scrubber things that you can get at bath and body works (or the dollar store). pack a couple of those bitches in there and see if that works. im sure a course steel wool would work better though.

RTW DC2R

Your setup should work fine, just make sure to have the drainback or you will accumulate oil quickly.

Im no longer a fan of venting my crankcase from the back of the block. Any sort of pull on the highway or track, and I get quite a bit of oil in the can due to it being pushed to the back of the block under acceleration. Even on only 12-15psi. I have a drainback but its still a pain in the *** since I get oil spray/mist coming out of the breather filter. The can isnt large and its not baffled so maybe thats part of the reason. But I am in the process of relocating to just off the front of the valve cover to see how it compares, plus I dont have much room in the back of the engine bay for a bigger can and dont feel like relocating my battery, etc.

what is the smallest size hoses/lines that should be used if venting from the front of the VC?

QuarterMileMaster

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you are better off putting the ones that go into the back of the block @ the lowest point on your catch can, so it will vent when needed, then also drain back, so it is a damn near maintenance free setup. also, use a good sized filter on the top of the can as well. something with a 1inch opening or larger.

you dont need baffles. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dang good idea for the block feeds, any recommendations for the baffling? I'd really like to figure out the sheet metal design...

DaveF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuarterMileMaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dang good idea for the block feeds, any recommendations for the baffling? I'd really like to figure out the sheet metal design...</TD></TR></TABLE>

DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL !!!!!!

you really do not need a baffle......

WHTZ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL !!!!!!

you really do not need a baffle......</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just curious as to why not?

QuarterMileMaster

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WHTZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just curious as to why not?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, me too. I heard it's necessary to keep oil from coming out the filters and such... Just curious... Obviously I'm a noob to this otherwise this thread wouldn't be here...

iBrandon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuarterMileMaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, me too. I heard it's necessary to keep oil from coming out the filters and such... Just curious... Obviously I'm a noob to this otherwise this thread wouldn't be here...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Many are scared that the steel wool will rust over time...and soon flake off particles and returning into your block...so many are switching the girly scrubby things...

tepid1

Here is my MS paint rendition....



It does not need baffeling if built with the right parts....

I don't have any updated pics of mine, but this shall do. Notice the layout of the ports....



It now has vents on top. I used two Moroso setups for those.

And I have to thank Tony1 for the help with this....

alpha

Ah ... A T1 can

crx12

Nice Chris On your setup for the return lines would it be a little better to have them located underneath the catch can vs on the bottom side. I guess the side of the box is easier to get to and most of the oil comes out of the can anyway. Also is it needed to have two hoses coming off the front of the valve cover or would one do it assuming the hose size is the same. Looks really good!

BB6-213

Thats exactley how I made mine, here are some pics.

Mr HYDE

these cans are the insides hollow? or anykind of baffel or pictures?

QuarterMileMaster

Ok, here's my updated design. Catch Can Gurus, What do you think???

RTW DC2R

lol I think you got it covered

DaveF

the fitting you have on the very bottom is doing the same thing as the 2 you have on the side...........


also, your baffles aint going to work.... how is the oil that gets trapped on top of them going to drain back ????????????????????????

boostedcivicsir

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you are better off putting the ones that go into the back of the block @ the lowest point on your catch can, so it will vent when needed, then also drain back, so it is a damn near maintenance free setup. also, use a good sized filter on the top of the can as well. something with a 1inch opening or larger.

you dont need baffles. </TD></TR></TABLE>

10-4 agreed on the drain back, and dave, dont need baffles?

QuarterMileMaster

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the fitting you have on the very bottom is doing the same thing as the 2 you have on the side...........


also, your baffles aint going to work.... how is the oil that gets trapped on top of them going to drain back ????????????????????????</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good call on the bottom fitting, didn't think about that.

Could you explain how baffles aren't needed?? I would think that if you didn't use baffles you'd have oil soaking the filters...

Does anyone have a good baffle design they'd like to share???? Pics?

tepid1

Baffles are not needed..... who cares if it sloshes around, it doesn't stay in there for all that long anyways.

The filters have pre-baffles in them to prevent spewing of fluids.

DaveF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

10-4 agreed on the drain back, and dave, dont need baffles? </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you have a properly sized filter/hoses, the can will get alot more "air/than oil" you are still going to have oil vapor in there. its not like the hoses aim straight out the top. its not like the yellowstone park(gysers) lol. the properly sized filters allow the air to escape. the FILTER will catch most of oilly vapor. these cans/hoses are designed with the FACT in mind, that a LARGER(1inch is what we run) diameter hose, allows for MORE AIR(same idea with a PROPER SIZED filter), than oil to escape the engine, with this in mind, your catch can should be damn near BONE DRY!!!!(ours still gets a little bit in the bottom, but at least its not overflowing @ the end of a pass, because of inadaquate venting)


there is no need for the baffles...


now, if you decide you are going to build a "huge" catch tank, with breathers/hoses... all that bs .... and still run the SMALL lines, you will still push a good amount of oil from the engine.

and.... if you want to run ONLY the hoses from the rear of the block, there is no helping you. you are going to get oil in your can(ALOT of it)
if you use the hoses from the rear of the block i recomend venting the FRONT of the valvecover as well..

boostedcivicsir

min size. -10 -12 or bigger? i was going to do a batt box can, in class myself and use 2 x -12 front, 2 x -12 rear and a pair of -6 returns to the bottom. is this enough?