DaX

iTrader: (1)

Depending on ECT and IAT after the turbo goes on, I may put spacers on the hood hinges and add ducting at the front. I left the OEM pump alone.

NVturbo

They are 1000x better than those cheap Ebay ones. Hell, the one I have costs more than the aluminum eBay radiator. LOL

2x0

Awesome progress!

I also used a come-along strapped to a tree to straighten out the front on my old del sol after I rear-ended someone

hey it works!

turboLScrx

I just realized I missed this..... hell yeah brother!

Txdragon

How could you have missed this part?! I've been waiting for that particular post since the rest was announced completed. Lol!

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man! It did work - that tiny come-along did better than I thought it would. I was nervous though - advancing it one click at a time and measuring each time!

Thanks guys!

I got the heat sheath installed on my AC lines and my daughter helped me charge it back up and it's blowing cool air again...just in time, it was over 85F today! She thinks it's awesome that the refrigerant cans get ice on them when we charge the system, and she likes running the scale. I was an idiot and was wrestling the heat sheath on with short sleeves and got fiberglass all in my forearms - it itched pretty bad, lol. I sleeved both the high and low pressure hoses, and the full length of the low pressure pipe that goes around the radiator. While I was at it I threw in new o-rings at all the joints. I'm hoping I don't have to run custom AC lines to clear everything, but I'm prepared to do so if that's what it takes to keep AC.

The oil pressure did dip back down to ~10 psi today, but it is only doing it now if the idle bogs from what I assume is a spike in electrical load. I'll try hooking the FITV back up and play with the IACV duty cycle some, but does anyone else have any ideas for helping to keep the idle from bogging down so hard when an electrical load kicks on? I'm also still getting a very very small leak from the radiator drain fitting - I think I'm going to have to pull the drain fitting out and put some teflon on it like it was intended to have.

Other than maaaaybe pulling the sunroof and going through it, I think I'm just going to drive and enjoy the car for the next couple of weeks until the go-fast parts get here.

maxwellmercer

I personally would toy around with the iacv duty cycle before reverting anything back.

AllMtrRex

Consult the factory service manual for an idle relearn procedure.

Txdragon

The idle will need to be adjusted for AC load. Remember the old wives tale of using more gas with the ac? Because the ECU will compensate for the idle drop, in turn, using more gas.. Anywho. This is normal and will take some adjustments to IACV duty cycle w/ac.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Flex fuel system shakedown went without a hitch. Yesterday I finished burning a full tank of ~E50 and filled back up with 93 (E10) and am back down to ~E20. For now until I get the turbo installed and get tuned, I'm just going to run 93.

Txdragon

And now... The waiting game.. lol!

DaX

iTrader: (1)

It's weird to not have much that needs to be done to the car. I'm going to drive it down to visit family this weekend (~150 miles each way). And regarding the idle, I've messed around with it some but not a bunch. I'm still planning to do the re-learn procedure and I'll just keep poking at it in SManager.

Txdragon

Saying something like that is equivalent to asking, "What could go wrong next?!" That's some **** you don't say out loud! You may not have enough downtime though. When you've got time to think about it, you'll be CREATING **** to do. Lol! See.. From before, all I had to do was replace pistons. That's it.. I figured why not fuel system, why not new turbo parts, why not... 5 grand later, I'm cussing at myself for doing all this now I've got the wrinkles to iron out. Lol

DaX

iTrader: (1)

You're right. I'm just going to shut my trap and enjoy driving the car, haha.


Maybe I'm looking at the wrong groups, or maybe I'm just getting old, but I'm not sure I can stand reading any more posts from the Honda FB group I joined this week to try out. Folks are literally talking about using ketchup to degrease their cylinder heads with, lol. My local cylinder head shop charges something like $30 to clean up a head.

maxwellmercer

I heard this ketchup thing recently too! Apparently it's supposed to work really good?

scottcraft

Most Honda Facebook groups are pretty bad. They tend to make me cringe.

Txdragon

Woah.. Really? I dont even use ketchup on my fries, let alone an engine degreaser.. Lol!

2x0

I’ve never been a FB user until recently, joined so I could check out the local “car scene” group for my city. FB seems to be mostly a bunch of high school kids who spent their parents money on their cars, but it’s a decent way to find good local resources for things.

For Honda stuff I would just stay here though

Txdragon

^^^ This.. I use the local FB stuff to source parts, that's about it. I've made some decent acquaintances along the way. For tech ****, I stay here. Lol!

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Hondata question - I'm running an S300v3 and a PLX wideband. Wideband signal is going into AN1 on Hondata and narrow band signal is going to D14 on the ECU. Im currently running in open loop. PLX is grounded at the thermostat. When I datalog, the "AF" parameter is reading about 2 full points less than my wideband gauge. The AN1 parameter reads the same as my wideband gauge. I was trying to record a datalog and compare actual AFR with target AFR, but I can't figure out how to make Hondata log the data from AN1 instead of AF. On the "closed loop advanced" tab, there is no selection on the dropdown for wideband input to select the analog channels...only o2, eld, etc. Is there something I'm missing here? I may try asking on the Hondata board too.

NVturbo

I would steer away from that. I bought a "good" cylinder head from some local guy. Once I got home and thoroughly checked everything, one of the thread holes (where the valve cover bolts down) was jacked up. Wasted $50 and my time.

Txdragon

In Neptune, the preferences section contains all the spots to do the logging from like you're looking for, it's not in the parameters section. I know it's a different system, but may be similar in setup? For mine, it's also where I put in my TPS configuration and such. I can also set when to auto log, analog input configuration, and a few other important functions. Wish I were better help here..

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Well, it's time to crawl back under the dash. I got a response on the Hondata forum - they recommend using the analog inputs only for datalogging. I'm going to delete the narrow band signal to the ECU and run my wideband signal to D10.

JRCivic1

Good idea.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I got my wideband signal moved from AN1 to D10 - now I can run closed loop without the car freaking out and my AFR is much closer to stoich (previously it was rich when running open loop). I did away with the narrow band signal from the PLX unit. Datalogging the AFR now works correctly and I was able to make some adjustments to my tune. I also installed an OEM valve cover gasket in hopes that it solves the pesky oil leak that developed. I bought some fire sleeve for my oil and water lines for the turbo and also 2 sets of BKR7E plugs. I'm hoping to hear some good news from Greg this week about the turbo kit shipping, and hoping to get it all installed and tuned by the end of July.