Txdragon

I couldn't imagine the headache of doing the oil pump with the engine still in the car.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

It took me about 4 hours. I was dreading it, but it went really smooth! Lots had to get out of the way to get to it, but being a fresh build, it was mostly clean and nothing was seized, haha.

NVturbo

haha...DO NOT REMIND ME. I had to do that a month ago and it was not fun. Thankfully...no A/C compressor or P/S pump to deal with. And the V-band clamp on the downpipe made life so much easier than a header. LOL

Txdragon

I don't like any maintenance that requires removing that damn crank pulley. Lol!


I can imagine. I've removed my ac, really wish I could find a good condition manual rack so I could get rid of the ps as well. Less to fuss with overall. My setup now utilizes a V-band downpipe and V-band wastegate. I can tell that's gonna be a love/hate relationship, isn't it?

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I ordered the turbo kit today!

scottcraft

When will you get it? I bet you are pumped!

Txdragon

Hell yeah!!! Hopefully Greg had some shelf manifolds. Think it was 5 weeks(ish) for my hot parts.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

5-6 weeks, but I'm OK with that! This will give me some time to get a few things sorted out on the car, and some time to save the $ needed for tuning. Yes, pretty excited.

That timing will work out well, I think.

NVturbo

I figured they have plenty of kits in stock.


I "had" PS on mine but I looped the lines via AN lines at the rack. Steering is fine the way it is now. As for the V-band clamps, I have it on the Tial wastegate as well. I like it way better than old bolt-on type. Visually, it looks nicer too.

Txdragon

I will be looking into this procedure you're referring to. Any pointers? I definitely agree about the visual appeal of the bands vs bolts.

NVturbo

Since I had plenty of -6AN straight fittings and hose lines left, all I bought was the fitting for the P/S rack. The loop line was about 10-13" long if I recall correctly. The following are the fittings you will need, besides the -6AN straight fittings. In my setup, I removed the entire setup, including all the lines, reservoir, etc.

--- return fitting
--- feed fitting


They do have some "delete kits" on eBay, if you don't have spare -6AN hoses and fittings

Txdragon

I found a write up that looks pretty good. Power steering delete DIY . If this would work, I already have that 1 fitting. I bought it to test its fit to the radiator drain valve and it fit but, the threaded section leaves open drain. Anywho. I am at a near stop on my progress from the stupid broken oil tee and the one I ordered won't be here til Friday. So this I can try!

maxwellmercer

I feel like there's no need to spend the money on a loop kit, it can potentially do more harm than good. With it being "sealed" off like that, if an air pocket is to occur, where will it go? You're better off either leaving the fittings open to atmosphere (I've been using this method for 8 years or so) or running an inline breather. I'm sure most people won't like this idea, but it makes sense if you think about it.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I ordered some heat sheath for my AC lines today, so I'm hoping to be buttoning up the AC system this weekend. I plan to initially just sleeve both flexible hoses coming off the compressor and the suction pipe that goes around the radiator. I'm hoping to not need to sleeve the high pressure pipe since most of it runs in front of the condenser / radiator.

scottcraft

Was it hard to steer at slow speeds? I looped my em1 and in parking lots and slow corners it was a two hand operation to turn so I went back to power steering.

Txdragon

Wonder how well thermal exhaust wrap would work on them? I've used it on intake piping before and it helped eliminate heat soak pretty well.

NVturbo

It wasn't hard at all.. I had to do the P/S delete with the engine already re-installed, which sucked. Yeah, that was one ordeal I should have done when the bay was empty.

scottcraft

I did mine both ways with the engine in the car, I won't make that mistake again, lol.
It's interesting that yours isn't hard to steer. I'm wondering why mine was so hard. It was great at speed though.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I feel pretty accomplished after this evening. I'm always super nervous about doing any kind of body repairs - it's just never been my strong suit. I borrowed a buddy's come-along and straightened out the core support some. I was able to pull the lower corner out by almost 2.5 inches - now the radiator and condenser sit much closer to where they should be - not perfect, but I think it will work. I also got the new Go-Autoworks radiator/shroud and SPAL fan installed.

Txdragon

Good work, sir!! Looks just fine.

Autoworks

If we didn't sell such a variety of fitment options then there would be plenty in stock...that is something that is getting worked on/trimmed down. Which ETA also varies w/ time of the year... it's just that "time of the year"

NVturbo

Totally understand.

maxwellmercer

Backyard body shop, I love it!!

DaX

iTrader: (1)

My heat sheath will be here this afternoon, so I should be able to get the AC and PS hooked back up by Sunday evening. I had to leave the crash bar off to get the bumper cover back on - if I end up putting the crash bar back in, it's going to take some hammering and cutting. I may just run without one all together since I'll be stuffing an intercooler in there. Or, maybe I can have a buddy fab one up for me.

I drove the car for about 10 minutes last night and I drove it to work today. At least initially, oil pressure looks MUCH better after changing to the OEM oil pump and to 10W-30 oil. Before, my cruising pressure was ~35-40 psi, now it's ~50-60 psi, and at idle my pressure would drop to 6-8 psi before, and now it's looking like ~15-20 psi. Also, no drips...well...almost. After sitting overnight there was one small drop of oil on the bottom of the pan, but nothing on the floor. I think I can call that a win.

I didn't put any pipe tape on the radiator drain fitting and it was leaking a little yesterday - maybe a teaspoon of coolant on the floor after sitting for ~20 hours. I tightened it all the way in (still no pipe tape) and it looks like it's not leaking any more. After the short drive last night I opened the hood and man, that SPAL fan was moving some serious air. My idle is still a little high, so I may route the coolant lines back to the FITV to see if it comes back down. I'm kind of thinking it's not closing all the way.

Gotta do what you gotta do! I think it will be "good enough". I do wish I had a straight body, but oh well.

Txdragon

Yessir.. The SPAL fan is no joke. That little dude don't **** around. Lol! If for ANY reason I'm gonna see any issues with my ECT on my new setup, it'll be a new radiator and SPAL fan next. Stock has served me well though. Here's to hoping it holds out.

Your oil pressure is MUCH better now. Did you port and shim the new pump, or left it alone?