Txdragon

So the engine light was NOT on at all with your stock ECU, and did not come on until you swapped to your Hondata ECU?

DaX

iTrader: (1)

CEL didn't come on initially, but the ELD code was showing when data logging. Then, with my computer hooked up, I did notice my CEL flashing the code 20. It has been a long time since I had Hondata, but I thought the CEL didn't flash the code unless the service connector was jumped.

Just saw that I can disable the ELD in Hondata. I may just do that in the short term, and then see if I can get another fuse box to try out later.

JRCivic1

If you truly have an ELD problem, you would get the code from BOTH the stock P28 as well as the Hondata equipped ECU. The current Hondata firmware flashes stored codes when you are "Key On, Engine Off". The codes are stored on the Hondata board and not within the foundational ECU, so you may have to clear it by pulling both the ECU and memory fuses under hood. Typically, this happens when a Hondata equipped ECU is plugged into a vehicle with a calibration that is NOT congruent with the current engine it is about to run. You turn the key on and the self diagnostic test sequence checks all systems... meanwhile, you have turned the key on so that you can now upload a basemap calibration to properly run the engine. The s300 board stores incongruencies between the tune and the engine sensor array. After uploading the proper calibration, the incongruencies no longer exist... yet, the KOEO system still shows the stored code. Completely pulling power from the ECU clears this. ECU, Backup pulled and the USB cable disconnected.

I just experienced this while trying to diagnose/test a potentially damaged P72 ECU equipped with a new s300. The tune stored onboard was for a road race car with an ITR engine. The ECU was tested in a Civic with a B20B. After plugging in the ECU and KOEO... the MIL blinked code 21 (VTEC Solenoid). The proper B20B map was uploaded and so now that the car was cranked and the engine was running... there was no active code. However, each time the vehicle was set at KOEO, the code 21 still flashed. When power was removed completely from the ECU, everything went back to normal.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the suggestion. I pulled the backup and ECU fuses today for about a minute, then reinstalled them and cranked the car back up with the laptop not connected. No CEL. I then connected the laptop, opened S-Manager, started data logging, and S-Manager still showed Code 20 for the ELD. I cleared it and it came back. So I went under Misc and disabled the ELD. Honestly, I think this solved my idle issue - it didn't drop down super low any on the way to work. I also noticed that my tachometer is off a good amount from what Hondata is showing. I may re-perform my idle setting procedure, this time using the Hondata tachometer instead of the dash tachometer. The manual says to hook up an external tachometer - I guess this is why.

maxwellmercer

Personally, every tune I've ever had the ELD disabled. I've never had an issue, ever. This should be good for some piece of mind.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. After reading more last night about what the ELD actually does, I'm feeling better about disabling the ELD. I originally thought the ELD played a direct role in idle control, however if I'm understanding correctly, it instead plays a role in telling the alternator whether to run in low output (12.6V) or normal/high output (14.6V). It sounds like the ELD only kicks the alternator into low output mode if there is only a low electrical load on the system, and this makes the alternator not have to work so hard, which in turn might be realized in some emissions savings and/or fuel economy. So, I'm assuming having the ELD disabled means the alternator should always run in the normal/high output mode. This means that the ELD controls the physical load the alternator puts on the engine, which in turn does affect idle, but the ELD is not signaling the IACV. Appreciate all the input from those that commented.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

So the car has made the whining noise a couple more times this week. It's definitely not a bearing in one of the pulleys like I thought it might have been, because one time after shutting the car off, it made the noise very briefly about 3 seconds after shutting the car off. It's like pressure is building up somewhere and being released. I got my Go-Autoworks catch can in the mail this week also, so I went to install it today. After raising the car and looking around underneath, there was some oil on the bottom of the pan and some has been slung into the driver's wheel well - not a lot, but enough to notice on a freshly built / cleaned engine and transmission. It doesn't appear to be coming from under the timing cover, the dipstick is still basically at the full mark, and the oil on the dipstick still looks like a good clear color (only about 250 miles so far), so it's not losing a whole lot of oil. Based on this, I'm back to thinking that the noise was caused by insufficient crankcase ventilation, and the oil was getting pushed out somewhere - maybe the PCV black box?

Anyhow I worked to get my catch can installed today - I remember now how much I hated putting together AN hoses. I deleted my PCV hose, PCV valve, and black breather box. The black box did have some oil in it when I pulled it off. I installed the hose from the back of the block to the bottom of the catch can, and I also installed one of the hoses run that go from the valve cover to the can - I will need angled fittings for the 2nd hose to clear the intake tube, so I just left the 2nd ports on the catch can and valve cover capped off for now. I also took the opportunity to delete my charcoal canister and purge solenoid. After installation, I cranked it up on jack stands and ran it - no leaks anywhere I could find top-side or bottom-side. I've never had a catch can before, but I was surprised at the amount of vapor that comes out of the catch can. The noise didn't happen after the catch can installation, but I haven't done enough driving to say it's cured yet.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I got my 45-degree fittings earlier this week so I was able to finish installing both hoses for my Go-Autoworks catch can tonight. I'm very happy with the quality of this kit that Greg puts together. This one has -10AN fittings and hoses that go from the side of the catch can to the valve cover and a -12AN hose that goes from the bottom of the catch can to the port on the back of the block where the PCV black box used to go. The fitting that plugs into this port and converts it to a -12AN male fitting is a very nice piece with two o-rings, and the aluminum retainer bolts to the stock location on the block and keeps the fitting from rotating while tightening the hose fitting to it.

Ever since installing the catch can (even with only one top hose) my car has not made the whining noise, so I definitely think it was related to inadequate crankcase ventilation.

I also wanted to share something I did that made assembling my AN fittings fairly straightforward. I ended up using these vise blocks to hold the braided hose while I cut it and while I used a dead-blow hammer to quickly tap the AN cap onto the end of the hose. These vise blocks were originally designed for holding AR-15 barrels to assemble AR upper receivers. They've just been sitting in my toolbox unused for the last 10 years or so, and I found them while digging through my toolbox looking for something to make assembling the fittings easier.

Txdragon

Smooth! Great idea for that barrel block. Given your previous issue and now being solved, I am almost positive that engine bay oil film of mine was coming from my breather filter.
Your engine is looking great! Can't wait to see the kit installed.

turboLScrx

trevdawg

good work man! keep up the photos and info!
i bought a 93 DX and a spare z6 motor. i'm just doing arp head studs, head gasket, timing belt and water pump. Then a P28 ecu.i just need to get it running and driving. this has a ton of useful info!!

B00STD

This reminds me of the same issue I had on a 5.0 Mustang 15yrs ago. It turned out the vacuum lines were routed incorrectly and it was making a very annoying whining sound, swapped the lines around to correct and problem immediately was resolved. You may want to double check vacuum lines as well to make sure the catch can breather isnt covering up a vacuum line routing problem you still may have.

NVturbo

my catch can setup is quite similar but the only spot for mounting it was in front of the passenger shock tower

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks...can't wait to get it there.

I know, I'm trying to be patient, lol.

Thanks, and glad this is helping some.

Appreciate the suggestion. There aren't really that many vacuum lines to check though since I deleted my charcoal canister. The noise still hasn't come back since installing the catch can, so I'm hoping that solved the issue.

I may end up having to move it once the kit goes in, but I hope I don't. I was able to use a pre-existing threaded hole on the shock tower to mount it here.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone have any experience with the digital stepper motor driven AutoMeter gauges as opposed to using the manual gauges? I'd be looking to use their boost and oil pressure gauges.

Txdragon

Hmmmm... Got me on that one.

Autoworks

Looks great all together sir!

No experience here/ w an autometer stepper motor.

K7-1Ktrevor

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, man!

Cool, not 100% sold on them, just like the idea of running wires in the cabin instead of vacuum and oil lines. I've got time to decide.

I got the oil changed this weekend - the conventional oil I used to break the engine in had about 450 miles on it definitely needed to be changed! I switched to full synthetic on this oil change. I also got the interior, the trunk, and the glass cleaned - this car is sooooo filthy. I still need to wash the exterior, but honestly the clear is gone on a lot of the car already, so it isn't going to make it look that much better. I'll focus on making it look good after engine / suspension / brakes are done. This morning I ordered a PLX wideband and a pillar mount gauge pod. I'm going to run the wideband wiring inside the engine harness, and I think I'm going to go ahead and wire it up for flex fuel while I've got it unwrapped.

K7-1Ktrevor

JRCivic1

The digital stepper motor style gauges work similarly to an electric sending unit gauge, with additional benefits. You can set a low or high warning point and typically they offer a peak/hold feature.

I have used electric sending unit gauges for decades and have NEVER had a failure. Running mechanical fluid gauges inside the cockpit is actually illegal for street use and quite dangerous. Just imagine a gauge failure or plastic source line fracture occur in the cockpit where the driver or passenger is sprayed with 230 degree F oil at 70 psi... sounds like a party to me. Most people buy mechanical gauges because they are cheap... being safe always costs more money.

K7-1Ktrevor

NVturbo

I marked the mounting holes (of the CC) and drilled into the wheel well. Used some 3/4" black plastic spacers and nuts+bolts since that location isn't flat. As for the bottom petcock valve, I removed it and replaced it with a barb fitting. The gunk fumes are ran down, using a 6AN line, right underneath the clutch slave bracket. The end of the hose is about the same height as the bottom of the transmission.

AllMtrRex

Say the engine let's go and you get a bunch of blow by in the breather, wouldn't you be trailing oil under your car with the drain line vented to atmosphere?

NVturbo

What's the difference between that and a hole in the block? If that does occur, oil will come out no matter what.