DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
#226
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Pretty sure I figured out my idle issue today. I wanted to break the engine in on a stock P28 ECU, so now that that's done, I swapped in my Hondata ECU and uploaded a stock P28 map. My CEL hasn't been on, but when I connect to the ECU, it's telling me I have a Code 20 for the ELD. I've cleared it and it comes right back. This makes perfect sense as to why I would have an idle issue. I'll try to make it by the junk yard next weekend and pick up another fuse box to see if replacing that works to fix the idle issue. For now, I just increased the IACV duty cycle one notch to see if that will keep the revs from diving so low when coming off the throttle.
For the noise, I did hear it once after topping off the PS fluid, but I've driven it another 20ish miles, and haven't heard it since. My daughter rode in the back on the drive we took earlier today, and she noticed the seat was wet where the seatbelts come out. I pulled the back seat and there was a good amount of water there - the foam for the seat was soaked. I dried and cleaned everything and hosed the car down, but haven't found the water source yet. I was thinking tail lights, as I knew there was water getting in the trunk, but not sure now that I'm seeing it under the back seat.
For the noise, I did hear it once after topping off the PS fluid, but I've driven it another 20ish miles, and haven't heard it since. My daughter rode in the back on the drive we took earlier today, and she noticed the seat was wet where the seatbelts come out. I pulled the back seat and there was a good amount of water there - the foam for the seat was soaked. I dried and cleaned everything and hosed the car down, but haven't found the water source yet. I was thinking tail lights, as I knew there was water getting in the trunk, but not sure now that I'm seeing it under the back seat.
#227
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
CEL didn't come on initially, but the ELD code was showing when data logging. Then, with my computer hooked up, I did notice my CEL flashing the code 20. It has been a long time since I had Hondata, but I thought the CEL didn't flash the code unless the service connector was jumped.
Just saw that I can disable the ELD in Hondata. I may just do that in the short term, and then see if I can get another fuse box to try out later.
Just saw that I can disable the ELD in Hondata. I may just do that in the short term, and then see if I can get another fuse box to try out later.
#228
Honda-Tech Member
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
If you truly have an ELD problem, you would get the code from BOTH the stock P28 as well as the Hondata equipped ECU. The current Hondata firmware flashes stored codes when you are "Key On, Engine Off". The codes are stored on the Hondata board and not within the foundational ECU, so you may have to clear it by pulling both the ECU and memory fuses under hood. Typically, this happens when a Hondata equipped ECU is plugged into a vehicle with a calibration that is NOT congruent with the current engine it is about to run. You turn the key on and the self diagnostic test sequence checks all systems... meanwhile, you have turned the key on so that you can now upload a basemap calibration to properly run the engine. The s300 board stores incongruencies between the tune and the engine sensor array. After uploading the proper calibration, the incongruencies no longer exist... yet, the KOEO system still shows the stored code. Completely pulling power from the ECU clears this. ECU, Backup pulled and the USB cable disconnected.
I just experienced this while trying to diagnose/test a potentially damaged P72 ECU equipped with a new s300. The tune stored onboard was for a road race car with an ITR engine. The ECU was tested in a Civic with a B20B. After plugging in the ECU and KOEO... the MIL blinked code 21 (VTEC Solenoid). The proper B20B map was uploaded and so now that the car was cranked and the engine was running... there was no active code. However, each time the vehicle was set at KOEO, the code 21 still flashed. When power was removed completely from the ECU, everything went back to normal.
I just experienced this while trying to diagnose/test a potentially damaged P72 ECU equipped with a new s300. The tune stored onboard was for a road race car with an ITR engine. The ECU was tested in a Civic with a B20B. After plugging in the ECU and KOEO... the MIL blinked code 21 (VTEC Solenoid). The proper B20B map was uploaded and so now that the car was cranked and the engine was running... there was no active code. However, each time the vehicle was set at KOEO, the code 21 still flashed. When power was removed completely from the ECU, everything went back to normal.
#229
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
If you truly have an ELD problem, you would get the code from BOTH the stock P28 as well as the Hondata equipped ECU. The current Hondata firmware flashes stored codes when you are "Key On, Engine Off". The codes are stored on the Hondata board and not within the foundational ECU, so you may have to clear it by pulling both the ECU and memory fuses under hood. Typically, this happens when a Hondata equipped ECU is plugged into a vehicle with a calibration that is NOT congruent with the current engine it is about to run. You turn the key on and the self diagnostic test sequence checks all systems... meanwhile, you have turned the key on so that you can now upload a basemap calibration to properly run the engine. The s300 board stores incongruencies between the tune and the engine sensor array. After uploading the proper calibration, the incongruencies no longer exist... yet, the KOEO system still shows the stored code. Completely pulling power from the ECU clears this. ECU, Backup pulled and the USB cable disconnected.
I just experienced this while trying to diagnose/test a potentially damaged P72 ECU equipped with a new s300. The tune stored onboard was for a road race car with an ITR engine. The ECU was tested in a Civic with a B20B. After plugging in the ECU and KOEO... the MIL blinked code 21 (VTEC Solenoid). The proper B20B map was uploaded and so now that the car was cranked and the engine was running... there was no active code. However, each time the vehicle was set at KOEO, the code 21 still flashed. When power was removed completely from the ECU, everything went back to normal.
I just experienced this while trying to diagnose/test a potentially damaged P72 ECU equipped with a new s300. The tune stored onboard was for a road race car with an ITR engine. The ECU was tested in a Civic with a B20B. After plugging in the ECU and KOEO... the MIL blinked code 21 (VTEC Solenoid). The proper B20B map was uploaded and so now that the car was cranked and the engine was running... there was no active code. However, each time the vehicle was set at KOEO, the code 21 still flashed. When power was removed completely from the ECU, everything went back to normal.
#230
Honda-Tech Member
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Personally, every tune I've ever had the ELD disabled. I've never had an issue, ever. This should be good for some piece of mind.
#231
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Thanks. After reading more last night about what the ELD actually does, I'm feeling better about disabling the ELD. I originally thought the ELD played a direct role in idle control, however if I'm understanding correctly, it instead plays a role in telling the alternator whether to run in low output (12.6V) or normal/high output (14.6V). It sounds like the ELD only kicks the alternator into low output mode if there is only a low electrical load on the system, and this makes the alternator not have to work so hard, which in turn might be realized in some emissions savings and/or fuel economy. So, I'm assuming having the ELD disabled means the alternator should always run in the normal/high output mode. This means that the ELD controls the physical load the alternator puts on the engine, which in turn does affect idle, but the ELD is not signaling the IACV. Appreciate all the input from those that commented.
#232
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
So the car has made the whining noise a couple more times this week. It's definitely not a bearing in one of the pulleys like I thought it might have been, because one time after shutting the car off, it made the noise very briefly about 3 seconds after shutting the car off. It's like pressure is building up somewhere and being released. I got my Go-Autoworks catch can in the mail this week also, so I went to install it today. After raising the car and looking around underneath, there was some oil on the bottom of the pan and some has been slung into the driver's wheel well - not a lot, but enough to notice on a freshly built / cleaned engine and transmission. It doesn't appear to be coming from under the timing cover, the dipstick is still basically at the full mark, and the oil on the dipstick still looks like a good clear color (only about 250 miles so far), so it's not losing a whole lot of oil. Based on this, I'm back to thinking that the noise was caused by insufficient crankcase ventilation, and the oil was getting pushed out somewhere - maybe the PCV black box?
Anyhow I worked to get my catch can installed today - I remember now how much I hated putting together AN hoses. I deleted my PCV hose, PCV valve, and black breather box. The black box did have some oil in it when I pulled it off. I installed the hose from the back of the block to the bottom of the catch can, and I also installed one of the hoses run that go from the valve cover to the can - I will need angled fittings for the 2nd hose to clear the intake tube, so I just left the 2nd ports on the catch can and valve cover capped off for now. I also took the opportunity to delete my charcoal canister and purge solenoid. After installation, I cranked it up on jack stands and ran it - no leaks anywhere I could find top-side or bottom-side. I've never had a catch can before, but I was surprised at the amount of vapor that comes out of the catch can. The noise didn't happen after the catch can installation, but I haven't done enough driving to say it's cured yet.
Anyhow I worked to get my catch can installed today - I remember now how much I hated putting together AN hoses. I deleted my PCV hose, PCV valve, and black breather box. The black box did have some oil in it when I pulled it off. I installed the hose from the back of the block to the bottom of the catch can, and I also installed one of the hoses run that go from the valve cover to the can - I will need angled fittings for the 2nd hose to clear the intake tube, so I just left the 2nd ports on the catch can and valve cover capped off for now. I also took the opportunity to delete my charcoal canister and purge solenoid. After installation, I cranked it up on jack stands and ran it - no leaks anywhere I could find top-side or bottom-side. I've never had a catch can before, but I was surprised at the amount of vapor that comes out of the catch can. The noise didn't happen after the catch can installation, but I haven't done enough driving to say it's cured yet.
#233
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
I got my 45-degree fittings earlier this week so I was able to finish installing both hoses for my Go-Autoworks catch can tonight. I'm very happy with the quality of this kit that Greg puts together. This one has -10AN fittings and hoses that go from the side of the catch can to the valve cover and a -12AN hose that goes from the bottom of the catch can to the port on the back of the block where the PCV black box used to go. The fitting that plugs into this port and converts it to a -12AN male fitting is a very nice piece with two o-rings, and the aluminum retainer bolts to the stock location on the block and keeps the fitting from rotating while tightening the hose fitting to it.
Ever since installing the catch can (even with only one top hose) my car has not made the whining noise, so I definitely think it was related to inadequate crankcase ventilation.
I also wanted to share something I did that made assembling my AN fittings fairly straightforward. I ended up using these vise blocks to hold the braided hose while I cut it and while I used a dead-blow hammer to quickly tap the AN cap onto the end of the hose. These vise blocks were originally designed for holding AR-15 barrels to assemble AR upper receivers. They've just been sitting in my toolbox unused for the last 10 years or so, and I found them while digging through my toolbox looking for something to make assembling the fittings easier.
Ever since installing the catch can (even with only one top hose) my car has not made the whining noise, so I definitely think it was related to inadequate crankcase ventilation.
I also wanted to share something I did that made assembling my AN fittings fairly straightforward. I ended up using these vise blocks to hold the braided hose while I cut it and while I used a dead-blow hammer to quickly tap the AN cap onto the end of the hose. These vise blocks were originally designed for holding AR-15 barrels to assemble AR upper receivers. They've just been sitting in my toolbox unused for the last 10 years or so, and I found them while digging through my toolbox looking for something to make assembling the fittings easier.
#234
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Smooth! Great idea for that barrel block. Given your previous issue and now being solved, I am almost positive that engine bay oil film of mine was coming from my breather filter.
Your engine is looking great! Can't wait to see the kit installed.
Your engine is looking great! Can't wait to see the kit installed.
#236
Honda-Tech Member
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
good work man! keep up the photos and info!
i bought a 93 DX and a spare z6 motor. i'm just doing arp head studs, head gasket, timing belt and water pump. Then a P28 ecu.i just need to get it running and driving. this has a ton of useful info!!
i bought a 93 DX and a spare z6 motor. i'm just doing arp head studs, head gasket, timing belt and water pump. Then a P28 ecu.i just need to get it running and driving. this has a ton of useful info!!
#237
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
I got my 45-degree fittings earlier this week so I was able to finish installing both hoses for my Go-Autoworks catch can tonight. I'm very happy with the quality of this kit that Greg puts together. This one has -10AN fittings and hoses that go from the side of the catch can to the valve cover and a -12AN hose that goes from the bottom of the catch can to the port on the back of the block where the PCV black box used to go. The fitting that plugs into this port and converts it to a -12AN male fitting is a very nice piece with two o-rings, and the aluminum retainer bolts to the stock location on the block and keeps the fitting from rotating while tightening the hose fitting to it.
Ever since installing the catch can (even with only one top hose) my car has not made the whining noise, so I definitely think it was related to inadequate ventilation....
Ever since installing the catch can (even with only one top hose) my car has not made the whining noise, so I definitely think it was related to inadequate ventilation....
#238
O.G. triple O.G.
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
my catch can setup is quite similar but the only spot for mounting it was in front of the passenger shock tower
#239
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
I know, I'm trying to be patient, lol.
This reminds me of the same issue I had on a 5.0 Mustang 15yrs ago. It turned out the vacuum lines were routed incorrectly and it was making a very annoying whining sound, swapped the lines around to correct and problem immediately was resolved. You may want to double check vacuum lines as well to make sure the catch can breather isnt covering up a vacuum line routing problem you still may have.
#240
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Does anyone have any experience with the digital stepper motor driven AutoMeter gauges as opposed to using the manual gauges? I'd be looking to use their boost and oil pressure gauges.
#241
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
#242
Honda-Tech Member
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Looks great all together sir!
No experience here/ w an autometer stepper motor.
No experience here/ w an autometer stepper motor.
#243
Honda-Tech Member
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
For oil pressure I will always prefer a mechanical gauge vs a sending unit/ stepper motor style. It's just one less thing to go wrong, potential for failure.
#244
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Thanks, man!
Cool, not 100% sold on them, just like the idea of running wires in the cabin instead of vacuum and oil lines. I've got time to decide.
I got the oil changed this weekend - the conventional oil I used to break the engine in had about 450 miles on it definitely needed to be changed! I switched to full synthetic on this oil change. I also got the interior, the trunk, and the glass cleaned - this car is sooooo filthy. I still need to wash the exterior, but honestly the clear is gone on a lot of the car already, so it isn't going to make it look that much better. I'll focus on making it look good after engine / suspension / brakes are done. This morning I ordered a PLX wideband and a pillar mount gauge pod. I'm going to run the wideband wiring inside the engine harness, and I think I'm going to go ahead and wire it up for flex fuel while I've got it unwrapped.
I got the oil changed this weekend - the conventional oil I used to break the engine in had about 450 miles on it definitely needed to be changed! I switched to full synthetic on this oil change. I also got the interior, the trunk, and the glass cleaned - this car is sooooo filthy. I still need to wash the exterior, but honestly the clear is gone on a lot of the car already, so it isn't going to make it look that much better. I'll focus on making it look good after engine / suspension / brakes are done. This morning I ordered a PLX wideband and a pillar mount gauge pod. I'm going to run the wideband wiring inside the engine harness, and I think I'm going to go ahead and wire it up for flex fuel while I've got it unwrapped.
#245
Honda-Tech Member
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
I'm on my 3rd oil change at only 250 miles and will soon do another on my car. I couldn't believe how bad the oil was the first two oil changes at 20 miles and the second at 57 miles.
#246
Honda-Tech Member
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
#247
Honda-Tech Member
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
I've seen multiple failures of electronic sending units over the last few years. Just sharing my experiences.
#248
O.G. triple O.G.
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
#249
Honda-Tech Member
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Say the engine let's go and you get a bunch of blow by in the breather, wouldn't you be trailing oil under your car with the drain line vented to atmosphere?
#250
O.G. triple O.G.
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
What's the difference between that and a hole in the block? If that does occur, oil will come out no matter what.