B16Blake

im planning on a build for my spare B16A2 i have sitting in my garage. i already have accumulated a few parts. i have some questions for some of you that may have used the same parts i have. i already have an idea of what im expecting out of this build.

what im expecting out of this build: focusing on making power with revs, not displacement. planning on keeping stock bore and stroke. i want to make power past 10k rpms. im expecting 450-500 whp on pump gas, and 550-600 whp on race gas

plans- Darton MID 81mm sleeves, anywhere from 9.5:1 to 9.8:1 compression, I beam rods, havent decided what to do with the crank yet (stock one is not salvageable), running a top mount manifold, turbo i decided on is a Precision billet 67mm, already have Crower stage 2 turbo cams

my questions are: as for the crank, probably going to purchase an Eagle 4340 crank, what bearings do i need to use? and what rpm can i spin the crank to? another question i have is how high will i be able to rev and still make power using crower stage 2 turbo cams? ive done some research and found that crower stage 2 cams make the most power from 6000-9500. are these cams sufficient enough for what i want out of this motor?

any input will be greatly appreciated

AlexDphoto

Keep your stock crank, theyre fine when it comes to making big power.

why are you going I beam rods?
is your head going to be built? PP,valves, springs, retainers etc?

AlexDphoto

If your stock crank isnt salvageable buy another stock one instead of the eagle one. OEM bearings or ACL bearings are fine.

B16Blake

I've done some research and read that stock crank won't hold past 9500 rpms? Unless whoever I read that from is mistaken. And yes, the head will be built. Already ported, polished, 5 angle valve job. Supertech oversized valves, supertech springs, retainers, guides, ect. I started out with a bare head and bought everything new

B16Blake

I went with I beams because I plan on running more than 30 psi on race gas and I wanted a stronger rod. Unless there's an H beam that I don't know about that will support that much boost and revs

AllShowNoGo727

iTrader: (1)

Im running a stock OEM ls honda crank spinning to 9400. im on 62mm billet wheel ball bearing turbo and a ramhorn but making similar number to what your looking for. Im also running the Brian crower stage 2 turbo cams my numbers are in my sig and my cam gears have not been touched. your power goals are very realistic i just personally wouldn't go with stock bore but that just me, 84mm GE sleeves and i never looked back.

mechanix619

I'm curious, why do you want to make the power at such high RPM's?

B16Blake

Running a built J1 cable trans with a 4.9 finaal drive. So I want more revs to ride the gears out longer

NVturbo

Even with a longer gear drive, wouldn't be more logical to have a setup that made power without pushing 10K RPMs? That sounds redundant to me. But...if you just want bragging rights of going that high rev, go at it. No matter what, it is your car.

B16Blake

Another route that's possible, I just remembered I have a B18C1 GSR crank sitting in my garage. Would I need to use LS rods for the crank to work in the B16A2?

mechanix619

Yeah but I would still think you would want to make the power sooner. Sure it'd be cool if you could hold the rev safely until 10k RPM but I'd think you would still want to make it a lot sooner than that.

mechanix619

GSR crank GSR rods
LS crank LS rods

AlexDphoto

what does psi have anything to do with what connecting rods you should run.

From what ive read, I beams are weaker than H beams. I understand you want to spin your car up to 9K rpms but I dont see any reason why you would want to sacrifice strength or why an H beam couldnt do what youre asking.

WVTURBOCRX

Looks like you are going down the same road I did for that high rev. The sound and feel is great and puts a smile on my face everytime I run it. I have the stock crank and my build runs like a dream. I have a RS*R 2.5 system that I need to replace with a full 3'' so we can retune to get another 50HP and faster spool time.

Here is what I have done. Also the Crower Camshafts 63411T-2 I really like the feel they gave my car, even at idel it is smooth.


https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/crx-fully-built-boosted-over-heating-issue-2619377/

http://dynos.evans-tuning.com/2010/1...whp280tq-s300/

B16Blake

thanks guys. i never thought that looking at other people's builds would help me decide what to do. i still have lots of research to do before i start the build