vtec.dc2

I want to build a block on a side, stronger pisons/rods and re-sleeve it.. Now, darton block is already sleeved, so in that case, wouldn't that make it same price? And what type of crank would i use on dart block?

STHPERFORMANCE

You cant go wrong with a Dart Block.....

Foozball26

GSR crank with the Dart block would be ideal, btw fyi the DART block uses DARTON sleeves...2 different companies.

Dart block is ~$2500 +rods ~$600 +pistons ~$600 +bearings, seals, water pump, oil pump, crank, oil pan, oil pickup, windage tray, and other misc **** = $$$$$$$$

unless you have a fat wallet, stick with building a honda block.

Kataku2K3

I personally would stick with the OE Honda block... B18C + AEBS sleeving

MotorMatrix.com

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Foozball26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GSR crank with the Dart block would be ideal, btw fyi the DART block uses DARTON sleeves...2 different companies.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

since when is dart using darton sleeves?? is that a typo??

blueturboteg

THe dart block is coll but very expensive. I would just build a honda block. The other problem with the dart block is it is no competitioin legal for drag racing

Andrea

The dart block uses Darton sleeves. The dart block is much much stronger than the convential sleeved honda block because of the grade of aluminum, and re-engineered webbing. Its a common myth that the sleeve is the weakest point of the honda block, but the webbing is what distorts under high rpm loading. This distortion makes the mains starting moving and placing undue amounts of stress on the main bearings. Resleeving a OEM honda block makes this situation worse since you are getting rid of more of the webbing material when the block is sleeved. If you look at high horsepower, high rpm blocks the wear pattern on the bearings is the same. The Dart block uses steel mains with ARP hardwear instead of the cast aluminum mains of the OEM block, yet further re-enforcing the problem area of the honda block.

As far as price is concerned the blocks sell for 1900.00 street price. The cheapest option would be to pick up an LS block for 200-300.00, use all the factory components from the block including the crank. The LS crank is optimal since you are picking up another 30cc displacement, without the disadvantages of running oil lines with the Ls/vtec. If you were to purchase a Ls/gsr block, then have it sleeved through a Darton authorized sleeving company you are looking at close to 2000.00 and you are left with the weakened webbing, and cast mains. At first glance the cost looks to be prohibitive, but at further inspection it would only cost you 200-300.00 more over having your block sleeved with Dartons.

PM-Performance

Dart blocks are nice and all , but dont plan on runninf heads up at NHRA events with it. you wont be collecting money at the end of the day

boosted hybrid

Yeah but not everyone wants to drag race for money. I am going with the Dart for the simple fact I want a ***** out street car, I could care less about racing in any sanction. All the other aftermarket sleeving options to me are far to long of a wait, or customer service lacks, or the price is compariable with the Darts. By the time i get done building a Dart block I will have the EXACT same amount of money as if I were to buy another OEM block, have Dan sleeve it.

If you were really that concerned about competing with the block in a sanctioned event, as long as you had the standard deck height block you can have the OEM numbers/letters stamped onto the block. The blocks look identical from the outside, with maybe a slight bit of difference. My dad's good friend does re-stamping for all kinds of restoration jobs for old school fords. Putting in the correct engine size, but giving it the right serial codes so the car is worth more.

PM-Performance

I was just getting that out so people know.
That was why i didnt go Dart and went the route i did .
Yes you can do the stamping thing , Just remember if you plan on being known in the scene and plan on going fast if you run at a sanctioned even , just know thye look for that

grocerygetter

I understand you are building a street car...not a drag car...but just an fyi for anyone reading: The NHRA techs at big events are smarter than you think.

PM-Performance

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grocerygetter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I understand you are building a street car...not a drag car...but just an fyi for anyone reading: The NHRA techs at big events are smarter than you think.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Glad someone else realizes that

vtec.dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grocerygetter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I understand you are building a street car...not a drag car...but just an fyi for anyone reading: The NHRA techs at big events are smarter than you think.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no this is not a racecar.. and i will not use this car in any race events - my main concern is building more reliable and longer lasting setup..

if i'm to buy gsr block for $600, sleeving can run up to $1500, leaving me with $2100 right there where darton block would be $1900, while i need to find out how much it would be for bearings/crank (used or new), i'm under impression that i can swap all other parts into dart block from my existing motor when i'm ready to swap,

i dont know whats involved in crank/bearings install, but i'm sure parts like oil pump, spayers and just misc. parts won't cause much downtime after i'm ready to swap blocks..

vtec.dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 50trim EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Its a common myth that the sleeve is the weakest point of the honda block, but the webbing is what distorts under high rpm loading. This distortion makes the mains starting moving and placing undue amounts of stress on the main bearings. Resleeving a OEM honda block makes this situation worse since you are getting rid of more of the webbing material when the block is sleeved. If you look at high horsepower, high rpm blocks the wear pattern on the bearings is the same. The Dart block uses steel mains with ARP hardwear instead of the cast aluminum mains of the OEM block, yet further re-enforcing the problem area of the honda block. </TD></TR></TABLE>

good info.. i never thought of that

Screamer

A little bit off topic, but what about Crower crank, wouldn't that be also a nice addition to the Dart block combination??? Just a thought, since you are trying to build a street machine.

boosted hybrid

The OEM cranks can withstand 1000whp level, so there really is no need for an aftermarket version. If you were going to use the extended deck height Dart block you would need to use either a 95mm OEM or aftermarket crank. The LS crank is what I am going to be using in my Dart block, its cheap, gives 30cc more displacement and is readily available. On a side note Gary Gardella picked up 40whp from switch from a gsr crank to the ls crank at the 900whp level. That would an increase of approx. 4.5% of horsepower by the increase in stroke.

Foozball26

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMatrix.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

since when is dart using darton sleeves?? is that a typo??</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, but it was when they first came out, darton was providing the sleeves like htey do with benson.

So unless they changed it yup.

Screamer

Thanks for great info.