DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet...
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DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet...
as I was cleaning and checking the bottom assembly, I noticed the CP piston top was sticking out past the deck. so I called Earl and chatted for a while, realized the wrist pin location on the CP is lower then my old JE pistons... I knew I had custom bore size JE's but didn't know the pin location was different because of the stroke increase, while the CP's match the stock pistons as far as pin location...
CP Left, JE Right...
here's my choice:
A) sell the CP's and get a custom set made to match the JE's, then I can keep the 89mm stroke have great low end tq, but custom pistons will take up to 7 weeks (no car for this summer )
B) sell the crower LS rods for B16 manly or eagle rods, use the stock b16 crank with the CP's I have, and have stock stroke (no more low end tq ), but still 84mm bore (Benson block ), and I have a chance to run my car this summer...
whats your take on it? is it worth loosing the summer for over 200cc displacement? I don't know what to do...
BTW, the LS crank was knife edged, balanced, and micro polished... so choosing B I would loose all that.
Modified by turbosi03 at 10:51 PM 6/30/2004
CP Left, JE Right...
here's my choice:
A) sell the CP's and get a custom set made to match the JE's, then I can keep the 89mm stroke have great low end tq, but custom pistons will take up to 7 weeks (no car for this summer )
B) sell the crower LS rods for B16 manly or eagle rods, use the stock b16 crank with the CP's I have, and have stock stroke (no more low end tq ), but still 84mm bore (Benson block ), and I have a chance to run my car this summer...
whats your take on it? is it worth loosing the summer for over 200cc displacement? I don't know what to do...
BTW, the LS crank was knife edged, balanced, and micro polished... so choosing B I would loose all that.
Modified by turbosi03 at 10:51 PM 6/30/2004
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Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (Mpir3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mpir3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know your situation I've chose to add option C...Move somewhere where summer doesn't end
Seriously go option B, with that kinda power low end tq is overated </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with option B
Seriously go option B, with that kinda power low end tq is overated </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with option B
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Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (BoostedGSRBubble)
thanks a lot guys... I'm really at a low point in my motivation
I really wish I can keep the knife edged crank and those beautiful Crower rods... but seeing that B is hands down, and I now feel the same, the parts have go up for sale... maybe I can get even just go ahead and get b16 crowers if I sell these parts soon...
I really wish I can keep the knife edged crank and those beautiful Crower rods... but seeing that B is hands down, and I now feel the same, the parts have go up for sale... maybe I can get even just go ahead and get b16 crowers if I sell these parts soon...
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Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (turbosi03)
I honestly don't know what I would do right now. I love the powerband you had with the last motor ...
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Re: (Mad Cow)
Go with B. Knifedged cranks are not for street cars. You don't need that **** when you are forced fed. Sell it and put the money elsewhere in your setup.
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Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (Rocks)
turns out the Crower rods that were with the stroker kit will work with stock crank and the CP's I have...
so plan B looks better because I don't need to sell or buy any parts and I can just continue building... I think thats what I'm gonna do and just hold onto the LS knife edged crank for another time, unless someone wants to buy it
man I hope I'm not dissapointed with the power band of this stock stroke and 84mm bore...
so plan B looks better because I don't need to sell or buy any parts and I can just continue building... I think thats what I'm gonna do and just hold onto the LS knife edged crank for another time, unless someone wants to buy it
man I hope I'm not dissapointed with the power band of this stock stroke and 84mm bore...
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Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (turbosi03)
Did you run the 89MM crank before? If you did you will be very disappointed with what you are doing. The 89MM crank is a tremendous jump over the B16 crank and will be very noticeable.
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Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (autoraceparts.com)
go with b... get that bitch on the road for the summer. my car is down half the summer and it suxs ***.
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Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (G"UNIT)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by autoraceparts.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you run the 89MM crank before? If you did you will be very disappointed with what you are doing. The 89MM crank is a tremendous jump over the B16 crank and will be very noticeable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I did! but I was around 300whp (w/FMU), and this time around I plan for 400-450ish... I'm hoping that much HP gain will make up for it also changing from drag log mani to an equal lenght mani... maybe that will help my low tq a bit...?
****, thats exactly what I'm worried about... I had 325ft/tq with 350whp on a blown HG using the 89mm crank, I haven't seen many civics with tq # so close to the HP #... I need to go look at some graphs of b16's with 84mm bores.
any other experienced advice?
Yes I did! but I was around 300whp (w/FMU), and this time around I plan for 400-450ish... I'm hoping that much HP gain will make up for it also changing from drag log mani to an equal lenght mani... maybe that will help my low tq a bit...?
****, thats exactly what I'm worried about... I had 325ft/tq with 350whp on a blown HG using the 89mm crank, I haven't seen many civics with tq # so close to the HP #... I need to go look at some graphs of b16's with 84mm bores.
any other experienced advice?
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Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (turbosi03)
I would go with A. Go all that trouble to get that stroker kit to work and not benefit from it?
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Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (turbosi03)
Are the JE pistons for the same block as the CP's or not?? Which block are you using anyway? And how are you going to make it work?? My CP's stick out of the block .006" and I'm trying to find out why that is.
#21
Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (turbosi03)
Tell me what the pin location is, we might have JE's in stock. Or you can tell me the rod length is. If it is a B16 rod we do have them in 84MM low compression.
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Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (leadfoot78)
hmm... now you guys got me thinking. that would be great if I can get a hold of new pistons fast, although I would like to stick with CP's... I have to measure the pistons pin location.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leadfoot78 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are the JE pistons for the same block as the CP's or not?? Which block are you using anyway? And how are you going to make it work?? My CP's stick out of the block .006" and I'm trying to find out why that is. </TD></TR></TABLE>
they are for the same b16a2 block, but the JE's are made so the LS crank can fit... Earl told me they can stick our as far as .006" no problem, but maybe use a thicker head gasket...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leadfoot78 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are the JE pistons for the same block as the CP's or not?? Which block are you using anyway? And how are you going to make it work?? My CP's stick out of the block .006" and I'm trying to find out why that is. </TD></TR></TABLE>
they are for the same b16a2 block, but the JE's are made so the LS crank can fit... Earl told me they can stick our as far as .006" no problem, but maybe use a thicker head gasket...
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Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (turbosi03)
You should definitely use a thick head gasket, normal deck clearance is -.030(piston bellow deck), with the pistons sticking out .006 that gives you .024 piston to head clearance, I believe the minimum is .023 or so, thats from the Endyn website. But if you use a stock head gasket and those CP pistons it will increase your compression quite a bit, but that depends on how far down the JE pistons were. My pistons stick out of the block .006 and I'm using a .045 Cometic gasket, that gives me a safe piston to head clearance and hopefully a safe valve to piston clearance, and the compression will be around 9.5.1.
#24
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Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (leadfoot78)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leadfoot78 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should definitely use a thick head gasket, normal deck clearance is -.030(piston bellow deck), with the pistons sticking out .006 that gives you .024 piston to head clearance, I believe the minimum is .023 or so, thats from the Endyn website. But if you use a stock head gasket and those CP pistons it will increase your compression quite a bit, but that depends on how far down the JE pistons were. My pistons stick out of the block .006 and I'm using a .045 Cometic gasket, that gives me a safe piston to head clearance and hopefully a safe valve to piston clearance, and the compression will be around 9.5.1. </TD></TR></TABLE>
with what compression pistons???
my pistons are sticking out .004 and i got a .054 cometic . and i have 9.0:1 pistons im trying to guage my final compression
with what compression pistons???
my pistons are sticking out .004 and i got a .054 cometic . and i have 9.0:1 pistons im trying to guage my final compression
#25
Re: DAMN! I'm not free sailing yet... (BodyKits NW)
too bad you didnt know about the moved pin before. you should have told the person you ordered from your complete setup. or researched it since you knew you didnt have a normal setup