97CWITR

Did a bunch of searching around to see the pros and cons of having forged pistons and rods on a daily driver, but didn't get all the answers I was looking for.

I understand people have "daily drivers" where they drive on the street once and a while, but Im talking about the cars that see everything! Cars that get shut off and on regularly, get started in -30 and +30.

I go on long trips to the cottage, sit in stop and go traffic everyday, and sometimes it sits for a week.

Does a forged setup wear the cylinder walls more? I understand that forged pistons have a larger piston to wall gap to allow for expansion? Reliability is #1 for me. Tuning will be done by a reputable tuner in the area, as well as the build.
I've looked in to a few builders and I am very confident in them installing everything correctly.

Im looking for 350whp in my b18c5, and re-build time is around the corner. So why not do pistons, rods, clutch, at the same time.

If a forged setup isn't ideal for the street, then I guess I could always do oem cast pistons and keep it between between 300-350whp.

Input is appreciated.

anavrin

bump for info

darkvader0

I went forged ~80K miles ago in 2003. It's not my only car, but I daily drive it whenever I want to. It's sitting outside right now. I drove it all winter down to 0*F. And no problems during 110*F summers. I notice no difference honestly.

phatrick2332

How is a forged setup not good for a street car? Wouldn't the forged pistons and rods be stronger and have just as much longevity as an oem part?

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

There are cars that come from the factory with forged internals! Come on guys....

97CWITR

Never said it wasn't good.
I just mentioned that different materials have different expansion rates, and different piston to wall clearances.

Was looking for experiences from true daily drivers.

97CWITR

Awesome, thanks!

darkvader0

Benson's sleeved 84.5mm, Endyn (Wiseco) Rollerwave pistons, Crower rods, Honda bearings. That rounded out my build. Just build it right by plastigauging, torqueing, etc. And I didn't go overboard with "accesories." I basically left everything else alone. Stock head (except I took it up to Endyn/Larry and watched him open up the combustion chamber for 84.5mm bore) and valvetrain--even the stock GS-R intake manifold.

cibao2ner

s2000 uses forged pistons ...and ive seen them got up to 700whp on stock blocks and over 200k miles not at that power thou..it all depends on your clearances ...

BigMike0147

BUMP for relavent info....

I'm going to be dailying my build after complete. I'm hoping it last for a LONG time. I'm with everyone else, that even if it's forged, it shouldn't matter. If the clearances are on point, then the motor should last.

mechanix619

I'm on forged internals and I've got about 35k on them now. As long as the tune is fine you will be good. Well, the tune, and as long as everything is built properly.

DUKE LADUKE

I drove mine around all winter as a dd all year round . Started right up when it was - degrees out . Had no issues. Just didnt beat the ***** out of it .

DelSolMarine

daily driven built 84mm gsr turbo setup here... i have "heard" of longevity issues with acl bearings however i have not personally had a problem...

change your fluids as your particular setup requires and you should have no problems as long as it is properly tuned...

its always wise with putting out lots of power (ex. a gsr was designed for 160whp not 400+) to do compression tests and check your plugs for signs of detonation... atleast i do it but im admittedly, excessively pro cautious...

crashtke

The only real difference you will see is that there is the potential for the rings to wear out faster, mainly due to cold start. 100k is usually an extremely long time on forged internals. Other than that, provided it is built to the correct tolerances there will be no different.

Hawjap1gsr

I dont think it will matter as long as the PTWC is good then you should be fine. i DD my turbo integra at 428hp on a 50+ round trip and also race a lot on the weekend or driving to work and its still fine. I am on stock sleeve. But taking it out this weekend to sleeve and built the head for more boost and power. i might remember to take some picture for you if you want.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

90% of the time internals wont dictate whether or not a car is daily drivable, its other factors that would make it more difficult to drive, such as transmission type, brake setup, and other modifications that wouldnt fall under the daily use catagory. I wouldnt drive a car around town on a daily basis if it was setup with lightweight drag brakes. See my point?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

internals dont matter.... the alloy the pistons are made out of dictates expansion ratios and such and piston manufactures take this into account.

assuming they are installed and gapped properly, you'll have 0 issues

runsfromdacops

the only shity thing with a built motor is you MUST let it warm up be foryou drive it at all. but that only matters if you go with a large ptw for bigish power. you cant just hop in your car and run to the store with it still cold. it will scuff the walls/pistons.
if you let to warm all the way up every time you drive it and use OEM bearings it will go for 200k

-alex

lostforawhile

the only difference is the piston to wall clearances are just adjusted for the different expansion rate. the pistons don't hit the cylinder walls, the rings contact them, if the piston comes in contact with the walls, you are screwed anyway.

SovXietday

How many times do you think a piston needs to see a 1400 degree charge in order to warm up?

Listen to wantboost, he's got the right answer. In the end, assuming you went with reputable hardware, the install will have more to do with how long everything lasts.

Spoolinls

im lookin for forged pistons and rods pm me if u have for 81mm b18b

juanonn-jdm

yeaaah

Hybrid96EK

I don't agree with this statement. I daily drive my car with SRP/Eagle setup. PTW is .0035". I fire it up, let the car idle maybe 10 seconds and I am off to my destination. Granted im not full throttle or even remotely pounding on it until its at full temp, but I don't see why one would need to let it completely warm up just to move the vehicle.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

certain people shouldn't even be allowed to talk about working on cars...