DA-NINE

I thought the same but the axles have sliding joints on both ends. The able shaft just will not come to rest centered between the two

DA-NINE

Well its been a long time coming, but the car is finally together on its wheels. ran into a few problems but nothing too crazy. Oil Drain line diameter was too small, right rear axle was binding, my Junkyard trans has a serious 2nd gear grind. and now the pressure relief in my walboro 450lph pump let go and now bypasses at 40Psi instead of 80.

New edition, I moved to a Holset Super40 Billet 7 blade turbo with a BullseyePower T3 .70 a/r turbine housing.


mocking up compressor clocking position


on and running


Took the car to work for an oil change and alignment









Soo happy to be driving the car. havent launched it yet, Kind of worried about 2nd gears synchro collar wearing even more- it pops out occasionally. Time for a rebuild. brake boosting 2nd gear at 22psi of boost(wastegate) was a wonderful feeling not one ounce of wheelspin. car pulls like a freight train so far and the boost controller is still disabled.

more to come.

boosted94gsr

Sooo sick! Nice work man

I want videos of this thing ripping around!

Dark_Teg

Nice work man. You have earned your black belt in Honda modification...

Geis

Agreed, actually forgot that you were going AWD there. I second the notion for vids of it ripping around.

extremeracer

I see a VTEC head in your future, although the HY35 hotside will restrict your high rpm ability.

Black R

Subbing.

Neat build.

DA-NINE

they are coming tune this week!

Thank you!

I had messed with the tune to get it close and did a few quick pulls. Brake boosting 2nd gear was a sweet experience dead hooking on street tires on boost that would be useless until 3rd before is awesome.

No vtec head for me. Hy35 is gone now onto a hx40 with a bullseye power to housing. Car needed a bunch of fuel above 6500rpm flowing good now .


Thanks!

Ronnie Cason

hey was just curious did you sell the hy35 or is it just sitting around because im about to boost my y7/y8 mini me and i think that would be perfect for it

DA-NINE

I Pm'ed you back.

DA-NINE

Good news and bad news.

Good news is I got the car tuned, turns out in the commotion of assembling the car the distributor was moved. my tuner noticed it almost instantly after re-timing the engine we proceeded to street tune the car. new turbo is fantastic- full boost around 5300rpm. pulls like a freight train compared to the hy35
still on wastegate pressure until I can make it to a 4 wheel dyno. So whats the first thing you do with your new found power in an all wheel drive car?! Launch that SOB. Well that didnt go well. The result was excessive front wheelspin and a dissapointed driver. My viscous coupler was not doing its job. it had to come out and be rebuilt. Even in its worn out state it was impossble to turn by hand. Following 10 year old posts and crude videos I started to tip toe my way through the rebuild.

After searching and cross referencing part numbers and dimensions I found suitable replacements from McMaster Carr. part numbers will be listed below.

SO FOR ANYONE WHO HAPPENS TO STUMBLE ACROSS THIS THREAD FROM GOOGLE OR WHEREVER THIS IS A MODERN VISCOUS COUPLER REBUILD POST. pass on the knowledge.


First pull your coupler(obviously), your mounts will look different. If you cant pull the coupler by yourself then you might not be qualified to rebuild it.





The output flange is held on with a 32mm Nut just like your axles.




The carrier bearing is a machined fit. I got mine loose with a hammer and chisel.



*once i removed this bearing i saw all he grime from my leaked fluid*
Under the bearing is a dust shielf for a seal, remove it (I pryed on it with 2 flat blade screwdrivers)



The next dust shield was apain, I couldnt get it of without damaging it. once I bent it I stopped caring about it. I dont plan on taking this car offroad so I am not too concerned.



Under the large dust shield is the front plate snap ring. yank it out- dont let it go flying across the shop or into your face.



at this time you can pull the front plate out of the assembly.

next flip your coupler over, the shaft retaining C clip must now be removed




**Important Note, all but two of the VC discs are retained to the inner shaft. the top plate and bottom plate are not captured. my top plate came of attached to my Front plate**



you will be left with this




Once this is off you are able to pull the center shaft and disks out of the housing.






Next check your Shaft seals! Someone had been in my coupler and rolled one of the X-Rings causing a leak and eventual failure of the unit.





One of mine was still good, expect old dried out seals that fall apart.


old vs new



install new x-rings in both housings


install a new o ring on your front plate





Now your left with this, and now the fun begins

DA-NINE

I have not found a chemical that will creep between the stackof plates and break down the silicone oil- soaked my disc pack all together in gasoline and shook the crap outof it for an hour- no dice. So i did it the old fashioned way and cleaned each disc individually with a rag.

Ther is a silver snap ring that holds the discs to the shaft- it needs to be removed to get the discs off the shaft



Now that your discs are clean you can insert the center shaft back into he housing (LUBE THE XRING) and install the shaft retaining clip

flip it back over and dump one container (2oz) of silicone oil into the bottom ofthe housing. this stuff will not flow , you need to pour it in the housing and push the discs down through it.

**remeber the bottom disk is free and not on the shaft **

I kept my discs in order they alternate round hole, oval hole, round hole. Ovals key into the inner diameter of the housing, round holes key to the shaft. Oval plates all have small spring clips that act as spacers against the splined shaft.

Seen here:


Stack discs until youhave about 1/8 inch of fluid left and dump another 2oz into it . I stacked half my discs and let the coupler sit overnight to gethe air out. some air is okay but no large air pockets.



Once your stack is complete the front cover can go back on. You willnot be able to close the coupler wihout alot of persistance.

REMOVE THE TWO t40 Torqx screws at the bottom of the unit and apply some serous force to push the cover on. I used a piece of exhaust tubing and my press. excess fluid will come out of the 2 open holes where the torqx screws were. reinstall the cover Snap ring and replace the 2 screws.


re-instal the carrier bearing, drive flange and 32mm nut (stake it!) and your coupler is now rebuilt.

thats all for now- ill finish the update in a little bit

Edit-Parts list:

Silicone oil. 100,000cSt. This stuff is made for rc cars but is the proper fluid for the coupler.

Team Associated 2oz 100,000cst silicone oil #5459 found online or in a hobby shop
Shaft seals are x-rings also known as quad rings
Pn 90025k405

Front cover sealin oring
Pn 9262k778

Both seals can be found on McMaster Carr

averyvm

iTrader: (1)

Very interesting build.

DA-NINE

Ended up going to the track car went 11.95@110mph babying it up the track and hitting Rev limiter early. Bumped launch control up to 5500 and pulled more timing along with raiding my Rev limiter to 9,000rpm. Car leaves crazy hard- spun all 4 tires and still hit Rev limiter about 150ft before the finish. Ran a 11.57 @114mph. New personal best. 3rd pas's I raised the launch Control even higher and the car left even harder but the 2nd gear synchronizatizer decided it had had enough leaving me without 2nd gear.

So now I'm in the market for a gear set. In my reading I have found that h series gear sets will drop right into the crv case. Only modification is to figure out a pilot bearing/bushing setup. The gearing change from my preferred transmission (m2b4) should allow me to trap 140mph in 4th gear instead of the current 117mph.

The car is still only on waste gate spring pressure (22psi) and regular summer performance tires. Can't wait to turn it up and put slicks on it. Shold be a ten second car without breaking a sweat.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Congratulations on your hard work.
Yeah, you could do that, but you'll start seriously breaking **** when you put the slicks on, especially that driveshaft you have on there.. It reminds me of my old DSM AWD days when I used to think I could drag race. .. Now I know that I just suck at it, and it's boring.

Dark_Teg

Dont miss my DSM a bit.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Of course not, because like most of us who owned those things, you had to have a tool kit with you at all times in order to keep that thing running. I was pretty lucky, though.. The only thing that went wrong was a water pump. When I sold it, the purchaser 5 months later burned a hole in the #3 piston :smh:

LightningTeg

A+ for ingenuity.

DA-NINE

Why build the car if I don't intend on pushing it.
One of these days the slicks will make it on, it will either go or go boom. Then figure out the failure and improve on it.

I'm a long time bracket racer it's fun bracket racing in a competitive class. Heads up racing does indeed get old.

I keep tools with me at all times, it was assembled in my driveway and I'm no perfect fabricator lol. No one likes being stranded
Thanks!


Picked up a m2b4 h23 transmission yesterday. Need to make a pilot bushing. The nose of the h23 input is the most 19mm vs 15mm on a typical b series. The ideal bearing would be a 32x19x8mm but nobody makes that size.

Ordering material soon to get this show on the road.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Hey, it's your BBQ. I'm just here to enjoy the grill. As for me, pushing the car is one thing, needlessly doing so to test its limits "just because" is, well, your time and effort after all...So do as you will. :-)

96ekb20

Picked up a m2b4 h23 transmission yesterday. Need to make a pilot bushing. The nose of the h23 input is the most 19mm vs 15mm on a typical b series. The ideal bearing would be a 32x19x8mm but nobody makes that size.

Ordering material soon to get this show on the road.

why did you get a h23 trans im lost ? sweet to see the build making its progress. so the seals where the only thing you replaced then ?

DA-NINE

Grab a beer! Pushing it to go faster

H23 transmission has a 4.266 final drive vs the crv 4.56 final. The h23 box is geared for a smaller tire. I was running out of 4th gear at the track before the finish.

Yeah the coupler was pretty simple, clean reseal and re-fill.


This thread outlines the gearing change I am making. Everything but the lsd front dif in my case.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...d-crv-3249871/

also thinking about doing an b series 5th gear .787 vs. .812 for highway cruising.

For anyone interested. I spec'd out material for my pilot bushing. It should be close to a cut to length type of affair.

Pocket in the flywheel is 32mm inside diameter, the oem style pilot bearing is 9mm wide.

I found an oilite (oil impregnated broze) that was 1.25"OD and .75"ID. On paper it's 31.75mm x 19.05mm. It's marked as oversized od and undersized ID. Hoping it takes up the .25mm gap. If not I need to make one from scratch.

Part number- 8931k141 on McMaster Car

Geis

Hey man, YOLO, ya heard?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

More like.. BOCO.

DA-NINE

Mild update, kind of at a standstill as far as the transmision. The sbxm transmission is well worn,2nd gear synhro clearance is almost on existant. The m2b4 h23 transmission is a 30k mile box everything in it is near new. my the first issue I have ran into is the diference in size of the Bellhousing side countershaft bearing. The sbxm Outside diameter is 62mm with no room to bore the case to fit the 65mm bearing of the m2b4. The Countershaft ends between the two are different sizes so re using either OEM bearing is not a possibility. If anyone has any leads on bearing suppliers please let me know.

The only plausible solution that i have stumbled across would be to have thte OD of the h23 bearing brought down from 65m to 62mm. I have yet to find a machine shop that would do it. looked high and low. only other option is to find a lathe with good carbides and do it myself.

After I get the gear set in the case the next issue is a relatively small one is that I need to machine a pilot bushing.

and the last and final step is figuring out how the heck to get the two ring gears on the h23 differential with the proper spacing. going to be alot of measuring in my future. here are some comparison pics- parts are labeled to each box.

sbxm on the table, h in the back ground


sbxm top, H bottom


DIfferentials are pretty close. SBXM looks like it has better machine work on the spider gears, same diff bearings and bearing seperation.



This photo is not accurate as the H diferentals Carrier snout for the differential bearing sticks out further than that of the SBXM, they are Identical in height Bearing to bearing give or take



Diff vs. Diff



H23 Ring gear is a milimeter or two taller dont think this will be an issue



The big difference is the mounting flange offset difference between the two.



Mounting depth difference





flange difference



transfer gear bolts are m10x1.0