Shortie771

Looking to build up my SOHC, Honda Del Sol Si to around 250whp daily driver, running 91 octane. Looking to make this car quick but not a monster, boosting at about 4,300rpm. Might do some 1/4 mile drag racing, but would love to get into autocross, with the great handling of this car.


Shopping list, so far which needs tweeking from the more experienced builders:

CP Pistons 75.5mm 9:1 Compression (link includes rods)
Eagle H-Beam Rods
ARP Head Bolts (link)
ACL Bearings (link)
New OEM Water Pump
New OEM Oil Pump (Ported)
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump (link)
DSM 650cc Fuel Injectors (link)
Aeromotive FPR (link)
Cast Iron Turbo Manifold (link)
2.5" Downpipe (link)
Mishimoto Z-Line Intercooler 28" x 7.5" x 2.5" (link)
T3 Super 60 Turbo (link)
TiAL Q BOV (link)
TiAL F38 Wastegate (link)
Hondata S300 (link)
Tenrai 2.5" Cat-back exhaust (Already Have)
Magnaflow High Flow Catalytic Converter (Already Have)


All information is greatly appreciated and thank you all in advance.
If anybody knows where i can get the parts cheaper, that would be nice (trying to avoid ebay).

Shortie771

Anybody?

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

Someone in here has done what your looking for

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/sohc-boosted-set-ups-chime-place-single-slams-1643764/

Shortie771

I am not wanting to do the vitara swap. You talking about Igo4bmx's build?

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

I mean someone in that topic has done what your wanting to do

OneBadTurboCRV

The problem is it has been done and thousands of times before... You have a LOT to lean and need to research a lot more. Some of the parts you listed don't exist, others are for Naturally Aspirated engines, and most are a total waste of money. Another huge red flag is you want a engine to have boost around 5k when it only revs to a little over 7k and not making much power unless decent modifications are done to the head. Hit the books and learn the basics, then and ONLY then ask questions... stop begging and wanting to be spoon fed. Owning a turbo vehicle is high maintenance.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2Aforced-induction-forum-faq%2A%2A%2A-1024174/

nealnanoHX

Edited some of that for your. You will also need a better clutch and the block will need to be modified so the H beam rods will clear. Check out the GoAuto turbo kits.

Shortie771

Thank you.
Right now i have an F1 Racing Stage 2 Clutch with 8lb Flywheel. Not sure if that is good enough but when my clutch went out it was about the same price so i went with the upgrade.

I have been doing research on both NA and FI so i wasnt sure if the coated valves, roller rockers, and rockers would help the performance aspect of an FI build the same way they would in a NA thats why i was questioning them. As for the CAI i dont know why i put that on there, i have that the car right now but it wont be used in the turbo setup. Lastly i didnt know there was a different name for the header and turbo manifold. I just knew one has a turbo flange for the turbo to bolt to. I always just saw it called a turbo header.

I have read in many forums that a lot of people are running 440cc injectors and say that for the power goal of about 300hp with a smaller turbo it isnt needed to go any higher. What do you think? I was thinking about the T3 Super 60 turbo as well but that is mainly because I have seen it done and Garrett as so many turbo options that it gets a bit confusing.

Owen_d16_boost

I dont think you need to coat valves etc for you HP goals. A T3/60-1 should be good for your goals... I think you may need a fuel pressure regulator as well I did not recall that in your list if it was my bad. You did not specify if you will be using regular 90+ octane fuel or E85 these are just a few more factors to consider... I have seen a few vitara builds raking in some good figures and very reliable up to 400 hp DD. I hope this info was helpful if you have any more questions you tink I can help you with shoot me a pm

OneBadTurboCRV

Please, stop acting like you know something. Your advice screams "noob" and is incorrect and unhelpful.

Owen_d16_boost

My apologies for my advice you seem to know a lot more than we do however you have nothing positive or factual to write …. The best advice that you could present was
“A lot to lean and need to research a lot more. Some of the parts you listed don't exist, others are for Naturally Aspirated engines, and most are a total waste of money. Another huge red flag is you want an engine to have boost around 5k when it only revs to a little over 7k and not making much power unless decent modifications are done to the head. Hit the books and learn the basics, then and ONLY then ask questions... stop begging and wanting to be spoon fed. Owning a turbo vehicle is high maintenance.”

There was no mention from you of what a good setup would have been … A good example from the great you would have been ….. “ I think you should buy the ycp vitara 75.5mm pistons, Eagle rods, new oem oil pump, take the block to have it notched, bored and honed with a piston to wall clearance of hmmmm maybe 0.03 have the oil pump ported and shimmed so that you may have better oil pressure throughout the system since you are going to tap into the oil system to supply the turbo with some form of oil. Balance the rotating assembly.”
That would have been a good start from you…… I have not touched a lot of other stuff as yet like injector size, fuel rail you seem to know a lot but you have not graced us with you input……..
Oh sorry yes you did all you can say is “If I answer your thread, consider yourself blessed/unlucky – you decide.”
News flash technically you did post on the thread or better yet just a simple question
Did you respond to this thread? … I hope you are smart enough to figure it out.
Please grace us with your so called wisdom of silence so that I may stay a humble “noob”
lol

Shortie771

I hate when people say "you have a lot to learn" and to do more research. Well if anybody wants to tell me what I need to learn I'd be happy to do the research. If there is a book out there called everything you need to know to turbo an engine, I would be happy to read it.

OneBadTurboCRV

You both are truly pathetic. I already gave the link that answers ALL of your questions. What more do you want? If I could physically slap the knowledge into you, trust me, I would be on a plane right now. You haven't even tried looking up anything as even Haynes manuals has a "performance" book.

nealnanoHX

F1 clutches suck they are cheap Ebay clutches so dont expect much from it. There is no need to coat the valves or go to roller rockers even for a NA build, The D16Y5 has roller rockers but there will be no real gain from roller rockers. A T3 60-1 turbo is a lot different than a Super 60. The Super 60 or T3T4 50 trim will work great for the OP's goals. As for injectors you can always go bigger it never hurts since the tuning will set the duty cycle of the injectors and it gives you more room for more power in the future. That is why I say go at least 550cc if not 750cc if running pump gas and go with 1000cc if running E85.

Shortie771

Have updated the first post to match the info you all have given. All I need now is to figure out which compression pistons to go for. Found some 75.5mm 8.5:1, 8.8:1, and 9:1 (+0.020" over bore). I'm just not sure which would be best for a daily driven engine and will keep it from being lazy in the lower rpm range. After that all I need to figure out is the gearing. I was thinking of keeping my Si tranny gearing and just swapping out the final drive to a taller one, like a DX/LX. That would change my final drive from a 4.25 to a 4.058. That will make a small difference, but should allow me to have a little more time in boost and even save some gas when im just making my commute.

Found the tranny info here
(current tire size = 195/60/14)

Owen_d16_boost

Ok N3va3vaSatisfi3d I will go look in a book thanks for the link to the bunch of other links. I believe that shortie771 was just asking for suggestions to accomplish a cheap reliable 300hp DD vehicle.
My suggestion to you shortie771 would be to buy the
YCP Vitara pistons, Eagle rods (I do not know if you have issues with this piston but I think it’s really the cheapest bang for your buck)
A cast iron turbo manifold (this may be found at a really cheap cost)
I don’t know what kind of budget you are on but you can get a good entry level turbo for around $600
An example of an entry level turbo is the precision 3231E or Precision 6031E these turbo chargers only has a .48AR or a.63AR
You will also need a wastegate, blow off valve (BOV), intercooler kit, upgraded fuel pump( Walbro makes some great in tank units I see you already had that on your list) , fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator and a fuel rail.
I do believe that a set of 550cc injectors would be sufficient , I have been using the Aeromotive 13109 fuel pressure regulator and have no issues with it.
I like the tail wastegate and BOV that is what I am using at this time.
Now if you are planning on using cams you may also need to upgrade the valvetrain to support you new cams I personally use the bisimoto engineering cam. However if you are strapped for cash it can wait you may be able to reach you 250WHP goal.
It would not hurt to get an aftermarket intake manifold … Skunk 2 has some fashionable ones. A 68mm throttle body won’t hurt either.
A light weight flywheel could also help, however you really need a good clutch kit….. Like ACT or competition clutch …..
You mentioned using the Hondata system for your ride the Hondata S300 is pretty good and should help you to greatly accomplish your needs.
I might have left out a few details not sure as yet as I am getting old and having senior moments don’t forget to modify your oil pump…… good luck with your research and your future build…… I have done that build before the problem I had was I lent my car to my Idiot cousin who turned up the boost and damaged my S#!! sorry for that…… I am about to do a soft rebuild my aim is 400 to 500WHP.

Shortie771

Thank you very much for all of your help Owen and for being the only person to not just blow me off and say I'm an idiot that needs to learn. What better way is there to learn than through experience? I agree that the vitara pistons are the best bang for your buck out there but I am leaning towards the forged wiseco because if I want to increase my hp goals in the future I won't have to start all over again. Still unsure on the compression and tranny setup but I guess that is just more research that I need to do.

nealnanoHX

I would keep the compression stock just with forged rods and pistons. 9:1 will be good and higher compression make the car more driveable off boost. Vitara pistons are a very good choice for what you are wanting but since you want more power in the future you will need to sleeve the block, not just Wiseco pistons. More future power is also why I suggested larger injectors. Just use your Si/Ex trans and leave it as it is. If you want better highway MPG then you can swap a DX/LX 5th gear and final drive in it I would just do 5th if anything.
Here check this turbo kit out it has the Super 60 turbo you want, is AC and PS compatible, has everything you need but injectors and fuel pump at a very good price. http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gostkit.html

OneBadTurboCRV

You need to understand that the Vitaras are good for around 450whp and the stock sleeves are good for around 400whp. The Wisecos would allow for a tighter piston to wall clearance and be a MUCH quiter engine. I personally would go with the Wisecos. I again repeat this... ALL of this information can be found in the FAQs...

PS - We don't like spoon feeding as around 5-10 threads a week just like this one pop up. It gets really old answering the same exact questions over and over.

Shortie771

Updated original post with links and a few more parts. Still feel like I'm missing something, just cant figure our what, if anything.

blackeg

yeah please for the love of god dont put that 60-1 on a z6 you will hate your life.

straight t3 60 trim is good, maybe a bit bigger is a t3/t4 50 trim with .48 exhaust housing. i think honestly from having a few turbo sohc setups in the past you want something that will spool up around 4000 rpm. that will allow you to drive it around regularly without going into a decent amout of boost. 2 years ago i tuned a sohc that had a small dsm 14b on it and just going up hills and on the highway it was at like 5 psi chewing into gas mpg.


save your money and use an oem fpr with larger injectors your not going to raise base pressure. you also forgot to add dremel bits for all the grinding you are going to have to do to the block and or the main girdle to get the eagles and really the rodbolt heads to clear.

Shortie771

Thank you. Thats about where I was wanting my boost, around 4,300 RPM. Right as it goes into VTEC since i rarely go over 4k rpm when daily driving. Pretty much for jumping on the highway. As for the dremel bits yea I will be getting plenty of those for port matching while I have it all apart. Yea it isn't needed but I might as well. Better airflow means better performance, right?

As for notching the block and/or girdle I will leave that to the machine shop since I will have to have it bored .020" over anyway to fit the 75.5mm pistons. Which I couldn't find 9:1 in Wiseco. I would have to have them custom made for an additional fee and 3-4 week longer wait. So instead I will be going with CP Pistons.

OneBadTurboCRV

No, actually better flow doesn't directly translate into more power. You have your theory all wrong. When you take too much from wrong areas it will actually hurt performance. Just leave it stock already, you are just wasting your time and you are obviously clueless on top of it. You have WAY too much to learn before you even dare take a carbide bit to an ALUMINUM head. That alone shows you lack proper knowledge. Do you know how fast a 60 or even 80 grit paper roll will remove aluminum? No where near as fast as a carbide bit, but fast enough to really mess up your head in 10-20 seconds. So again, you think I am being mean by saying you have a lot to learn, but it is your ignorance that shines through post after post...

Shortie771

I don't believe I ever said that I would be using a carbide bit. I was planning on using a 10k rpm die grinder with 80 grit cartridge rolls (yeah it will take longer). I hope you don't think that i am really dumb enough to just rush in and start porting my own head with 0 experience and just cross my fingers and hope it works out. I have an old aluminum head that I would use to practice on, before trying anything on the one actually going into my car.