EG-SIXV-TEC

my build is a d16z6 vitara/eagle setup for turbo.

okay i got ACL STD bearings with my Eagle rods and checked it with Plastigauge? i got .001 across all 1,2,3,4 rods.

for the Main bearings i got all about .0015 straight all good. except the third one it fits .0015 but slightly smaller. but if i put it next to .002 plastic green measuring box its slightly larger. so around .0015 does it sound good??? wtf???



its just the ACL STD bearings on my Eagle Rods,
also i had some slight scratch on the bearings on my ACL STD bearings can i still use it? it got scratched when i put it back inside the box. but looks still clean. but scratched a little. not deep but can see some scratch on some.

is .001 good i used the green plastigauge to measure it. for rod bearings??????????

Schister66

**Moved to Forced Induction**

rich7777

You need use oem bearings. Search the Evans forum for the how to build a b-series guide.

Schister66

I found it: http://www.evans-tuning.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=326

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Id say go with ACL HX for the rods and OEM Reds for the mains.

EG-SIXV-TEC

.0015 for the Mains with ACL race bearings, and .001 for the rods?

Can i just change the Rod bearings to OEM specific ones and use keep my ACL race bearings for my Mains???

also what would running with .001 be like. bad or good?

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

yes you can keep the acl mains and go with oem (spendy) bearings.... make sure you know how to measure out crank & rods (have the the tools)

otherwise go with what muchman said and get the acl hx




no you do not want .001 for rod bearings. that's bad.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

No, I suggested a little looser on the mains and a lot looser on the rods.
Target upper teens for mains, 20 thou on the rods.
You can have the rod big ends honed out half a thou if you need more clearance.

TheToaster

iTrader: (1)

What. No I ran that set up boosted fine. They can do it. I ran .0007 on one same set up boosted to 265whp.

These bearings wear, and the ACL wear more being softer.

Whats Honda recommend for a new oem build as min-max? If it is within that range you are good to go.

I like to use Shell Rotella Full Synth 5w-40 from Wallmart. Super cheap syn..

Great magic.

Going strong for 6000 miles now.

rich7777

Cool. You're leaving him with very little room for error. Why not just play safe and keep the clearances on the loose side ? The Internet...

LightningTeg

That's a bit too tight.

TheToaster

iTrader: (1)

What error? Why is that too tight.

F*cking Lemmings.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

lol settle down there.

D series clearances are much tighter than B series. Thats why we are shocked.
Still why would you target the tight end of the clearance? Id always target the loose end for a power build.

No. 1,5 Journals:
0.0007 - 0.0014 in
No. 2, 3, 4 Journals:
0.0009 - 0.0017 in

TheToaster

iTrader: (1)

I don't target it, it's just how the ACL race bearings came out on my STD crank.

If Honda says it's OK why do you doubt them?

Because you're build isn't how Honda planned it?

A smaller clearance will allow the rod to bang around on the bearing less.

And when the bearings you are running are softer than the OEM bearings, you're only going to increase bearing clearance as it runs.

I wouldn't wanna start with a loose engine and then run it and have it get looser, bang around and get looser and fail.

Also if your oil clearances are big, more oil is being lost through that bearing, lowering overall system pressure, and reducing the force the oil is extruded through other orifices.

If you feel you need to go with bigger bearing clearances, you should increase all aspects of the system proportionally. IMO

As with every opinion, you're free to do what you want.

I just would rather have a tight, well lubricated bearing, than a loose one.

The only reason I would increase it is if you know that is what you need and that is making the bearing spins.

(Heat/lack of lubrication to the journal/high cylinder pressures because you are doing 13:1 turbo with E85)

I'm not arguing you don't need more on builds like you're own, I'm arguing that this guy isn't doomed and isn't fated to fail.

If he is at .0010 he is well within proper specs and the ACL race bearings top coat wears off very quickly increasing this further. After 5-10k miles I believe you will be around target.

If you increase it now, your engine will be ready to be beat on, just like a drag motor, but I wouldn't expect the life expectancy to be near where it would be if you did it like suggested.

If you are nervous run it 500miles NA hard on dino oil. Then put your turbo on, switch to synthetic and drive it at low boost for a while, its broke in and after you get bored turn it up. (My method)

LightningTeg

You clearly dont understand how bearings, or engines for that matter, work.

Schister66

...and?

If you're going to refute a statement, at least point out why/where he's wrong

**Lets try to have a discussion, rather than an arguement...threads like this are good learning experiences for everyone, if conducted in a mature manner**

LightningTeg

Get angry!

Because your using the engine for a completely different purpose then what it was designed.

Rods dont 'bang' around in their journals. They ride on a film of oil. If anything is 'banging around', there is a problem.

Not sure where you got the impression that bearings are a 'wear' item. It sounds like you are talking about brake pads or something.

But you also get a thicker oil film, and more room for crankshaft flex and distortion

Agreed


It depends on the application

Not sure what your saying.

I have a hard time seeing bearing clearances changing noticeably over a short period of time

EG-SIXV-TEC

.001 readings on my engine rods. when i was removing the bearings it was very hard to come off after it was torqued. but i took the time and tapped it with a small rubber plastic mallet. i did it like at least three times at least each rods but still came .001 inches across.
is it supposed to come off hard like that i feel like i had a bad reading or something when i tapped it slightly with a rubber mallet but i had somebody hold the ends of the crank shaft so it wouldn't turn.


choosing new bearings for my engine rods. i looked at the book at crankshaft and it looks like i get codes for the mains.
how do i know what oem bearings to use with the eagle rods????