KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

Hi this is going to be my questions thread hopefully for all my questions regarding my build(stock engine with fresh maintenance rebuild turbo).

Stay tuned for latest posts as they will be my questions if it's me!


00 ej8 coupe 130k
Currently on 87 octane Bone stock everything.

Am about to install turbo kit PLUS do my usual timing belt water pump head gasket etc maintenance WHILE I install the boost kit.

Anyways first question:
I am going to be tuning the car On 91-92 with whichever my closest chevron offers around my area which is usually 91/92 octane.

How would I go about switching over to 91/92 octane?
Do I drive car till dies. Have a gas tank with 91/92 octane? Drive that till dies and fill her up from a gas tank with 91/92 octane again? Then put in fuel pump and fuel filter?

Also note I will be doing hg/tb/wp/etc maint. And installing turbo kit at the same time

Also note I do have a new fuel filter and a used walbro 255 I'm going to install during the installs

blackeg

just start filling up the tank with the higher octane a few weeks before you do the turbo kit. if thats not possible, there is a 17mm head drain bolt on the bottom rear drivers corner of the gas tank. i think it torques to 33 ftlbs when you tighten it up

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Or just disconnect the feed line from the rail and let the pump empty the tank into a container. That's the fastest and easiest method. Just jump the fuel pump relay.

When you install your pump you need to hard wire it. The oem wiring was never designed to handle the higher amperage draw from the bigger pump. It's not only a fire hazard but you'll be severely limiting pump performance and output, minimizing the power capacity of the pump and potentially damaging the pump and shortening it's life span

I'm still not sure how headstuds play into this.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Also as far as I know there isn't a drain not on the 96-00 civic tank, assuming this y8 is in its intended chassis. There definitely isn't one on my 97 ex.

screaminvtec

I had a drain on my 00 civic cx

OneBadTurboCRV

I definitely had a drain on my '97 EX, '98 EX, '99 Si, and '00 Si... Depending on the amount of rubber coating they spray around it sometimes is covered up but is still able to be located.

Honda Automotive Parts

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, I'll take another look then

ek9_beast

Upon first glance I did not have one in my 99 hatch.. I just made the switch to e85 two days ago and found the drain under that layer of factory undercoating but until I did the digging I did not think it had one. I never needed to find one as I slowly introduced the higher octane one low tank at a time but after the research I did it seems all 96-00 civic have the drain..

The arp head studs have nothing to do with this but ill comment since the op mentioned them. If you're replacing the hg then studs go hand in hand. I put studs on with the kit as well but I do have two friends that were running stock bolts and had head lift at 9lbs on a .50 trim and 7.5lbs on a second .50 trim so its cheap insurance that will keep your head down nice.. The arp studs go through a great heat strengthening process that to my knowledge nobody else uses and if you check into it, it will make it easier to spend the extra $100 on them.

blackeg

my em1 has it. as previously mentioned its probably slobbered up with undercoating and hard to see at quick glance

KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

I have most of these parts if not 90% of my turbo kit already. I'm on misc parts to do now

Ie build my own boost controller
Get some vacuum lines or some tubing lines
Gotta figure out how to get my rc750 to fit into my edelbrock intake manifold
And Ya that's bout it
Oh and send the head into the machine shop to get cleaned bla bla

And tap my oil pan. Just need the welder to drill and weld that's it I have all fittings


Question of the day: My goals have now changed to 250whp /200tq What clutch is needed ? Must retain reliable and cheapest. Not necessarily only "cheapest". Has to be BOTH I do have on now a new autozone clutch kit ($130 value one). But I don't know if that will hold my power goals down. I'm pretty positive I'm gonna be hitting my goals with what the parts list I have. And I dunno if my new (under 10k miles [more like -7k] autozone clutch kit ($130 value one) will be able to hold 250whp/200tq or close to there

Schister66

An OEM replacement clutch will last for a little while, but will fail eventually. I've seen them go for a few months or after one "good" launch. In short, an OEM replacement clutch is not meant for the power you're trying to make. Time to go aftermarket...

I might have a cheap clutch option for you - I've been sitting on a Competition Clutch Stage 2 and an ACT Streetlite Flywheel for a Z6 build that i'm no longer pursuing. Its a good clutch and will hold the power you're looking to make - Still new in the box. PM me for more details on it, if you want.

Competition Stage 2 Clutch - Info

ek9_beast

^this clutch is nice and doesn't chatter. Had it on my stock motor turbo y7 back when. Ran it on a stock flywheel tho..i also have a brand new 10an oil pan tap that bolts in, has an oring gasket on both sides. Even has a small Allen key bolt to hold the nut down. That is if you don't want to pay a welder. I used one myself for 52k miles and never leaked. Got a welded y8 pan for free or I'd still be using it

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

My civic still has the factory plastic shield over it which might be why I don't see a drain. Stuck my hand up in the shield but couldn't feel anything.

And yes an oem replacement clutch won't tolerate the torque increase. You'd be lucky if it even made it off the dyno. Competition has great products and even better customer service. They are all I use for clutches. Can't go wrong with them IMO

KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

Can't afford a $300 clutch kit lol

Is the exedy stage 1 kit usually $80-100 oem replacement?

What u guys think of exedy they're the cheapest in terms of price wise and I know they're a decent clutch company

Can't afford no comp / act. They are at 300 for their starter lol

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

If you can't afford the proper clutch then you definitely won't be able to turbo a car... You're looking at 2000-3000 for the turbo, fuel, and ecu stuff puts an additional 500 or so for tuning.

The exedy stage one won't work. It's basically an oem clutch with a slightly stiffer pressure plate. It's designed for people with mild na bolt ons. Won't support the torque increase.

ek9_beast

His prices are dead on.. Don't listen to clowns saying its $500 to turbo.. CORRECTLY, $2000-$3000 as said if starting from scratch

KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

I don't think u guys understand my **** is basically 95% done
So talking bout cost of turbo kit is irrelevant guys

I mean I an afford it but then I will have to delay some more sadly. Ima do some more research on clutches sometime within next few days budget out money again lol

Anyways update today tho my wastegate and installing mbc is setup. Went n bought about 15ft of 1/8th tubing


E: honestly it could cost me under 1k to piece it
Since legitimately I did piece my kit for under 1k
Tuning is different subject tho

ek9_beast

You still have a clutch, tune a many final small touches which is $1,000 plus so just saying your not done until its on the car and its properly tuned. I got all my parts first and thought I was done on my first turbo civic. $1600 later I was done so take it from experience. Which walbro 255 did you buy used? Do you have an adjustable fpr?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

If money is tight the xtd and similar kits on eBay have done well at lower power levels like you're planning on running.

Schister66

You have PM - I'm trying to clear some space, so we can work on price. Just get this **** out of my garage haha

Comp Stage 2 Clutch Pics

As for the Exedy stage 1, you'll burn that thing out in 6 months or less and then have to spend more money to buy the proper clutch. Its easier to do it correctly once and be done IMO. I have nothing against Exedy, but at least look at the Stage 2, 3-puck cerametallic if you have any hope of longevity.

KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

SORRY FOR SUCH A LATE DELAY / REPLY GUYS!
Update for 2:20:15
My spare y8 head is sent to the machine shop should have it by the end of this week
i came into extra money and can continue the parts list.

so my question today:
how are the powerband increase would i see w/ a aem/good brand adjustable cam gear for a stock head and stock block but only mods r arp head studs + turbo kit?
Reason i ask is because i can get a used AEM cam gear for d series cheap and so the question emerged.
im pretty excited on getting my head back so i can finally start the project.

Second question:
Should i do TB/WP/HG/Maint first THEN install turbo kit or do it all at the same time?

Third question:
Can i install my walbro 255 fuel pump NOW while im stock everything but on obd1 p28 w/ y8 basemap?

I bought a 255 lph used made for my car years id have to check for part #.
I do have an ebay adjustable fuel pressure regulator yes. but idk if thats a good one to use?





i replied to your message!

ek9_beast

Do your head studs and gasket then turbo the car. The fuel pump is fine to run but you need to adjust the fuel pressure down with an afpr. By eBay regulator do you mean the whole unit type or the blox style that you add to the top of your stock? The 2nd will be ok but DON'T use the first complete eBay afpr. The cam gear will help when you get a cam not just throwing it on a stock head and expecting hp... Always get your car in tip top shape BEFORE you turbo.

KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

So its a go already guys

I removed the old head today and the new head is ON.

just slapped the head on + arp studs in (didnt torque yet) and i was done for the night.

I did however wanted to put my oil sandwich plate on + install the oil pressure gauge, but i couldnt find a socket to fit the oil sandwich plate screw and i didnt want to use handtight on that part only because i got scared of leaky oil so i decided to hold off on installing that until turbo kit


@ek9 i honestly Dont no anything about FPR's but it seems its the first choice youre talking about, Complete Ebay fuel pressure regulator kit.

the one i have looks exactly like the one in the pic, it has no branding on it so i assume ebay ;/ are those bad? do i Necessarily need one along with my walbro 255?

and so from my reading i can install the walbro 255 BUT i need a Adjustable Fpr in order to run my walbro w/ stock NA y8?
I thought iirc that i can use a stock fpr and its good up to 400hp or so? or did u meant that since im NA the walbro 255 will dump too much fuel hence u suggested a AFPR?

ek9_beast

Do not use that regulator. If u want cheap get the blox type that goes on your stock unit or if you can afford it get an aeromotive or genuine sard. I have had both and the hacksaw special will work which is the first I specified and is only $50. U need a for with the 255 but please do not use that eBay one. Their diaphragm will fail and a fuel leak will occur possibly burning your car up. Don't skimp on fuel products buddy. Your fuel pressure will rise with the 255. It did on both my cars before installing my afpr.

KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

can i just NOT get one at all? i read that you dont need a adjustable FPR and can use a stock one is that true?