BenN.Y.

Hey all
I'm trouble shooting on my D15b mini me turbo setup basemapped @7 and ran strong until recently she started running lean on the way home the other day, got worse and worse till now she barley starts, an i can drive her around the block but shell stall when stopped and i need to rev her to stop from bogging out. No cels. SO. from the threads ive read im thinking possibly distributor // heater coil // ignition - ignitor // water pump - flush heater core...
Something had to have been going, and is now burnt out is my opinion, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, tryin to get her 2 a dyno 4 this summer!
I'm not cheap, an i been saving for this build so if you can point me in the right direction as far as replacements and what to go with ( msd blaster ?) id be grateful . THANKS ALOT!!!

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

OK, so what i got out of your post is this:

you boosted a D15, no mention of the set up.

So no tune, beat down @7psi on a basemap, thinks its lean and now no power at all..

oh, and your not cheap..

Im not trying to be a dick here.. but that engine was doomed from the minute you went into boost the 1st time w/o a tune. I doubt you have proper crankcase ventalation to evac the blowby, therefore the rings are prob shot. which is probably why you cant get it to run.

but lets get more info on this build before we can speculate why your basemapped D isnt running.

BenN.Y.

CONSTRUCTIVE critisisms appreciated... ... ;P

2(nd) hand 70,000 mile rebuilt JDM d15b z6 head
255 walboro, 440 cc inj's, 2core radiator, 4bar map, t3t4 60 trim turbo, front mount intercooler, greddy BOV, 7 psi wastegate, boost controller, cast mani, 3' dp/testpipe/catback, fuel filter, 8 mm wires, gapped plugs, vtec controller, sent J-K in Carlisle my spex and he chipped my p28 and made me a basemap that had me running optimum @ 7 psi for a good while, even though i didnt drive it often sounded and ran real healthy, boosted good, never took it past 6000...
gota AEM pulley kit and 5spoke cam i was going to put in before this issue...

Its my Belief that suddenly it either started reading lean and putting in too much fuel
or not enough fuel and reading rich...n idk why...
opened up my ecu n dosnt look like anything burntout... swapped my destributor // iac wth my eg hatch beater and their both good, cleaned it up n down, oils clean.
Coolants not really circulating, heat dosent work well...
took out my low temp thermostat it wasnt stuck...

BenN.Y.

n from what ive heard ive got the best SOHC to boost... mini me? best compression?

BenN.Y.

gota oil catch can too but stays pretty empty

BenN.Y.

boost gauge reading boost when i turn the boost on, and AFR is rich on startup (which i have to flutter kick the gass pedal to keep combustion) and then drops off past lean

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Do a proper compression and leak down test and come back with what #'s u have.

BenN.Y.

started 4 the compression test then died no matter how much gas i gave it... wouldent start again... took the plugs out and their black, cylinder smells like gas went n got new plugs an it started an died soon after... im far away from a competent mechanic that would even agree to look @ my car so i really appreciate anything yall got

Slacker93eg

Wait..... you tried doing a compression test with it running?

Please, in full detail, tell me how you're testing the compression

nealnanoHX

Black plugs is running rich. So why is it that you think you are leaning out?? Do you have a good wide band AR gauge to monitor AF ratios?? A base map it just that a base map. Meant only to start up the car after the turbo install to make sure it runs with the larger injectors ect and if in a pinch to dive the car out of boost to a tuner for some time on the dyno and a real tune. Boosting the motor on a base map is asking for it especially on a stock motor which it sounds like you are running. The D15 mini me is really no better that any other D series and in fact if I am correct the D15 non Vtec motors have really weak rods. The best IMO to boost are the D16Z6 and Y8 and both need at least ARP head bolts to run low boost.

Do a compression test. Why are you trying to do a compression test with the motor running?? You do it just cranking the motor. Remove all spark plugs and unplug the injectors and distributor(so there is no risk of fire) crank each cylinder over 4-5 times and repeat 2-3 times to get a consistent reading and repeat for all 4 cylinders. Yes I know there is a running compression check but the OP does not need to do this.

Check for spark. You can do this quick and easy by pulling a spark plug wire off a plug, put screw driver in the wire, touch the metal part of the screw driver to ground (any metal on the engine, valve cover works well) and have someone crank the engine over. Oh be sure to hold the plastic part the the screw driver or you will get a good shock. You should have a good strong spark.

On a side note the 60 trim turbo is pretty large for what sounds like a stock motor DD street car. Not bashing you but you would have much better response with a smaller 50 trim T3T4 and it will be funner to drive.

BenN.Y.

i think its leaning because my afr gauge dropps off the lean end...o2 sensor i dont think its wideband... i really dont know, going to try swapping the maf sensors tomorrow ? idk my boy had some took hooked up to the radiator???
w0w... thanks... ill def try that while im at it tom.
n whats an OP ?
n whats a DD ?
... thanks 4 the input 2... i pretty much got 6 cars pieced together in this one @ this point... been doing better off financially recently... and more time on my hands so im tryin 2 learn myself up ... i wan go fast 8D

Slacker93eg

OP - Original Poster (you)
DD - Daily Driver (vehicle)

spoolie

Successful troll is successful. He wins, you guys lose.

Slacker93eg

Had a feeling, wasn't quite sure. Haha

nealnanoHX

What AF gauge and sensor do you have?? If you have a Autometer then it is 100% useless for tuning and real time AF. Get a good one like a Innovate or a AEM UEGO but they are not as good as the Innovate. If you have one of these the wide band O2 sensor may be bay, pretty common.
Op= Original post
DD= daily driver

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Neal, I gave up on this thread a long time ago...

but if you want to spoon feed, by all means....

BenN.Y.

thx 4 the codex decipher... now whats a successful troll???
af gauge is autometer... however i dont have a wideband just stock o2... and from what im reading it could be my sensor went bad ? ergo gauge reading lean and comp dumping in fuel to compensate? ... bout to go swap the maf's an check for compression
thanx 2 all!

BenN.Y.

dam sht, dont ur panties in a bunch, from my perspective this project and website is a hobby and good learning opportunity, dont help me if it hurts. Sorry im not a ceritfied mechanic, i goto school and work full time. Thanks 2 those of you who arent on a high horse 4 ur time. it has helped.

BenN.Y.

spark//compression.
Bad MAF sensor = Bad o2 sensor = the nubs right O_O
sorry 4 the trouble fellas...
Thanks alot though!

BenN.Y.

now if anyone knows how to remove rivits from eg maf sensors w/o screws mounting them THAT would be greaaaat... thaaaanx... ;P

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

dremel a cut into the head, use screwdriver and unscrew

BenN.Y.

werd... thx

nealnanoHX

Why are you replacing the map sensor?? If it was bad it would cause a CEL and post a code as well with the O2 sensor. More than one person has told you to do a compression check. I am an ASE certified mechanic, not that it matters. Check the basics first compression, fuel and spark. If your rings are shot or valves are burnt you will have low compression and black plugs because the AF mixture is not igniting. Throw away the Autometer AF gauge they at 1000% useless, any AF gauge that piggybacks off a stock O2 sensor is useless. If you want a AF gauge, not needed but a very very good idea then you must get a 5 wire wideband O2 AF gauge that runs on it own O2 sensor. As I said Innovative or AEM are really the only 2 worth a dam IMO.
This is the last bit I will spoon feed you. If you do not post up a constructive post with some compression #s I will let you to your vices on this one.

d15b-booted

im new to the site. i have a few questions about my d15b turbo set up.
i have a cheapy ebay godspeed turbo set up
8psi
.57 trim
im trying to get this turbo'd i ordered a base mapped ecu to run the turbo its tuned for a non vtec d15b running 8psi 57 trim and stock every i do have a walbro fuel pump.
i was wondering if i could run this set up on stock injectors to acheive 180-190whp the injectors as we all know are only 240cc

BenN.Y.

my spark fuel n compression are great, its running tip top again after i replaced the MAF ( NOT MAP ) and o2. so wether they were the particular problem, or just something that got cleaned up when i replaced them im not sure, but my rings and valves are fine , as my motor was recently re-built by my friend... so thanks for your certified advice... but the problems solved...