boostincoupe

I've got a 97 civic ex coupe (d16y8 SOHC VTEC) and I'm looking to have the Greddy intercooled turbo kit installed at a local tuner shop (they have a dyno). I'm wondering:

1.) What should I do for headwork? I was quoted anywhere from $650-$800 at another shop for a ported and polished head, 3-angle valve job and ported intake manifold. Is this necessary? Will it cause any problems if I plan it to be a daily driver? I don't PLAN to boost more than 7 lbs. for the first few months (but the boost bug may hit hard after I'm boosted ).

2.) Besides a full engine rebuild, is it possible to just install a lower compression head gasket, ARP head studs, and a NuFormz block guard if I plan to run 10 lbs. of boost, mainly for the track? I talked to a guy who was selling his car and he emailed me a dyno sheet of his car running 231.7 hp @ 9.5 psi, and he also said he ran a 13.7 quarter mile (dunno if it was on slicks or street tires). Do you guys think he is BSing?

3.) Am I missing anything else in this list for preparation mods for the turbo kit?

- New in-tank fuel pump (what type?)
- New injectors (what type?)
- I already have a b&m fpr
- ACT heavy duty pressure plate w/street disc & clutch masters lightened flywheel
- HKS Hiper cat-back exhaust (2 3/8" piping)
- test pipe w/cutout for the track (necessary?)
- Apexi V-AFC (Possibly w/afc hack, however I'll ask the shop how they're going to set that up)
- MSD 6a ignition box w/blaster 2 coil, cap, MSD wires, WHAT KIND OF PLUGS????
- AEM cam gear

I can't think of any other prep. mods at the moment, if you guys know of anything else, let me know.

My goal is to be able to run 10 psi. daily, however it is a daily driver so I may keep the boost levels down if necessary. The car will not be driven in the winter.

*** Puts on flame retardant suit just in case***

Man, this turbo stuff gets confusing...

kidkutz

well i'm not really answering your question...just curious why you haven't thought about swapping in a DOHC first? you'll make great power that way...and you can always turbocharge it in the future

ill_take_one

Damn man, did you have to reply like that?
He's set on what he wants, and wants help with what he's got. The mighty D16 is a very capable engine. I've seen plenty run 12's 13's...
He didnt ask for opinions...
Basically, i'd try to help, but i'm in the same boat as you with all of the questions.

bretx0r

cause money doesnt grow on all of our trees

CovertFI

well here is my opinion. i always get bit by the buy some thing bug!! if i do everthing at once i get board. so my sugestion is buy the turbo kit install it have fun. when you need more do the port and polish. have fun with that and then rebuild the motor. blow that up and then swap it out for a dohc. start small and gain knowledge.

it really pisses me off when i talk to some people and they dont even know what is done to there car because they did nothing to it.

i hope i helped

Dupes

I have the exact same dilemna...dont know If im gonna keep my d16z8 and turobcharged it...or swap b18c1/ZEX, and build from there...damn cars!

B20C5 Turbo

Here is my advice FWIW:

1) Leave the head alone until you have alot of cash and need a little more power.

2) Take the money you would have used for the headwork and purchase good pistons (9.0:1), rods, machine work, and professional assembly.

3) Do not use a blockguard or aftermarket headgasket. The ARP's are a bonus, but not necessary. Good engine managment and tuning is the key (they have a dyno, right).

4) Purchase a turbo kit that is already equipped with a T3 flanged manifold and downpipe.

Aside from that, look at a good engine managment system before boosting too high. Oh, and:

5) Enjoy.

ion_four

My advice would be to not be a *** and to put it together yourself
It will take more time, but cost less money and in the end you'll have learned alot and you'll know how to diagnose any trouble, for one thing. You'll also be able to be proud that you did it yourself.
About your set-up. The cam gear isn't really a necessity IMO, and the headwork is a little bit of overkill because there are many more things that will give much more power that the same money could be spent on at this point. Block guards are kinda sketch, too. I'd go for posting.
Good luck!

Also, I wouldn't waste my money on the ignition at this point. The stock is VERY good. Just get a new cap/rotor/wires and NGK's that are one step colder.


[Modified by ion_four, 7:23 AM 7/11/2002]

Pelican

And for the injectors, Eclipse Turbo Manual injectors (help me out on 1st/2nd gen) will work but you'll need a resistor box off a Non-Obd civ. They're 440 and xx0 cc's depending. You can buy RC's that'll fit without the box, its just more expensive. There's a little bit of wiring too, but you'll be learning and gaining good hands-on time.

I went the way you're thinking of Full little MSD lineup, but its really not needed until you are really changing specific stuff about the ignition. Stick with stock, wires and the colder NGKs

B20C5 Turbo

That's no ****.. After you have spent millions of hours asking HT members what a ring gap is, how to measure it, how to change it, what plastiguage is, how to read it, how to change it, what a torque wrench is, how much is a good one, where to get a good one, how to use it.... Why I have white/blue/grey smoke coming out of my exhaust, how to fix it, why I need to pull the head again, what could be wrong with my rings (they won't seat), do I have valve problems...... You will definately know how to diagnose any problem, and have all of the tools necessary to do it (can you say good time for a career change). You will have also spent more time and money in the process than what a professional engine builder would have charged you for one-time success.

There are many DIY jobs in the world (most of them household related), building a high performance engine isn't really one of them.


[Modified by B20C5 Turbo, 1:15 AM 7/11/2002]

boostincoupe

anyone else?

Ri5e

$600-$800 for a ported and polished head. Can get a B20 Motor for $900 ... hmm....

boostincoupe

what do you guys think of me running a lower compression head gasket and a NuFormz block guard to run more boost instead of installing rods and pistons? ghetto? Let me know.

MiraiZ

head work = waste of money unless you're redoing your valve train and going the full 9 yards with it. After hard driving polish ports don't mean a thing because it pretty much goes back to the way it was before the work.

MiraiZ

thick head gasket = ok
rods and pistons = much better!