The correct way to make your own Profec B switch
10-20-2003, 05:41 PM
#26
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Re: (FredoSP)
Parts:
Two conductor wire (like speaker wire) x however long you need it
Stereo head phone plug (radio shack part #274-284)
Any momentary switch (the one I used: radio shack part #275-646)
fist unscrew the outer cover off of the headphone plug. I will look like this:
You will see two small tabs and one larger tab.
Solder one wire to the larger tab (this tab is used in most electronics for the ground connection)
Solder the other wire to the smallest of tabs. This tab is in the center and is connected to the contact at the tip of the actual tip of the plug.
Put the cover back on.
Now solder the other end of the wires to the momentary switch. It doesnt matter wich wire goes to wich tab on the switch.
Make sure the switch you use is a momentary switch and is normally open so that when you press it it makes a temporary connection.
To use pre-existing switches just find where the wires are in you car that go to the switch and cut them off of the wiring harness so you just have two wires going to each side of the switch. These colors can be found in the wiring diagram that are in most shop manuals.
You are now basically done.
If people have shop manuals in .pdf format and can send them to me then I will post possible switchs with the wire colors for various cars.
Feel free to ask any more questions. The pics arent great cause its really hard to take pics of small things.
Two conductor wire (like speaker wire) x however long you need it
Stereo head phone plug (radio shack part #274-284)
Any momentary switch (the one I used: radio shack part #275-646)
fist unscrew the outer cover off of the headphone plug. I will look like this:
You will see two small tabs and one larger tab.
Solder one wire to the larger tab (this tab is used in most electronics for the ground connection)
Solder the other wire to the smallest of tabs. This tab is in the center and is connected to the contact at the tip of the actual tip of the plug.
Put the cover back on.
Now solder the other end of the wires to the momentary switch. It doesnt matter wich wire goes to wich tab on the switch.
Make sure the switch you use is a momentary switch and is normally open so that when you press it it makes a temporary connection.
To use pre-existing switches just find where the wires are in you car that go to the switch and cut them off of the wiring harness so you just have two wires going to each side of the switch. These colors can be found in the wiring diagram that are in most shop manuals.
You are now basically done.
If people have shop manuals in .pdf format and can send them to me then I will post possible switchs with the wire colors for various cars.
Feel free to ask any more questions. The pics arent great cause its really hard to take pics of small things.
10-20-2003, 05:58 PM
#27
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For people who are not good at soldering or electronics I will make them for you. For the wiring with out a switch it will be $8 plus actual shipping and with a basic switch it will be $12. If you want a certain switch then just PM me for a price.
10-24-2003, 12:24 PM
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Re: (b16booster)
if u removed ur stock hub complete and installed the momo hub like me and many others have done, then this is how i have it done:
firstly with the wheel and hub off u'll noticed a wire running on the inside of the hub (facing u when ur sitting in car). this hooks up to the spade coming off of the horn button. this wire is internally wired up to the whole copper part u see on the back of the hub. basically when u push the horn button it connects this to the other lead, which is the metal frame of the hub and runs into the part that connects to the steering rod with the splines.
since to get the profec to switch, u just need to complete the connection of the two wires coming out of the stereo plug (refer to revhigh's writeup), the horn button works perfect. what i did was use one of the threaded holes that used to hold in the stock hub and screw a metal contact to it and bent it out slightly so it's closer to the back of the car. a piece of wire or metal connecter will do, but softer will be better as u won't hear it while ur turning. this, if angled properly will touch the copper part. wire up one end of the stereo plug to the contact u used. one end is done.
the other end was a little more complicated and i had to be a little more creative. through constant testing i found that the spline in the steering column grounded out against many other metal pieces around it. here's what keep the second wire from tangling. while ur doing everything mentioned above, take off the whole cover that surrounds the column. drop the tilt steering all the way to the bottom and if u peer in between the column and ur gauge cluster u should see all the steering crap in there. almost any of these metal contact will work. to make sure, after u have already wired up that first wire. plug it into the profec and turn it on. take the other wire u have and touch it to one of the metal parts u plan to use. if this successfully completes the connection, u should be able to take the wire that is in the hub and touch it to the metal frame of the hub and the profec should switch. once u have accomplish this it means that u can put everything back together, pop in and wire in the horn button, and use it to switch boost settings. again, for the second wire, find whats convenient for u. i think i found a little screw that u can barely see. it is right behind an edge of the column that is facing away from you, so it makes it hard to see and reach. i attached the wire to a washer, and then put it on the screw and locked it up with a proper sized nut.
good luck. once u get in there and experiment i'm sure u'll figure something out. just remember to test it while ur doing it.
-alan
EDIT: formatted so u wont go blind
firstly with the wheel and hub off u'll noticed a wire running on the inside of the hub (facing u when ur sitting in car). this hooks up to the spade coming off of the horn button. this wire is internally wired up to the whole copper part u see on the back of the hub. basically when u push the horn button it connects this to the other lead, which is the metal frame of the hub and runs into the part that connects to the steering rod with the splines.
since to get the profec to switch, u just need to complete the connection of the two wires coming out of the stereo plug (refer to revhigh's writeup), the horn button works perfect. what i did was use one of the threaded holes that used to hold in the stock hub and screw a metal contact to it and bent it out slightly so it's closer to the back of the car. a piece of wire or metal connecter will do, but softer will be better as u won't hear it while ur turning. this, if angled properly will touch the copper part. wire up one end of the stereo plug to the contact u used. one end is done.
the other end was a little more complicated and i had to be a little more creative. through constant testing i found that the spline in the steering column grounded out against many other metal pieces around it. here's what keep the second wire from tangling. while ur doing everything mentioned above, take off the whole cover that surrounds the column. drop the tilt steering all the way to the bottom and if u peer in between the column and ur gauge cluster u should see all the steering crap in there. almost any of these metal contact will work. to make sure, after u have already wired up that first wire. plug it into the profec and turn it on. take the other wire u have and touch it to one of the metal parts u plan to use. if this successfully completes the connection, u should be able to take the wire that is in the hub and touch it to the metal frame of the hub and the profec should switch. once u have accomplish this it means that u can put everything back together, pop in and wire in the horn button, and use it to switch boost settings. again, for the second wire, find whats convenient for u. i think i found a little screw that u can barely see. it is right behind an edge of the column that is facing away from you, so it makes it hard to see and reach. i attached the wire to a washer, and then put it on the screw and locked it up with a proper sized nut.
good luck. once u get in there and experiment i'm sure u'll figure something out. just remember to test it while ur doing it.
-alan
EDIT: formatted so u wont go blind
06-20-2004, 08:24 PM
#34
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Re: (DC2R714)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2R714 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good write up. I dont even have a profec B and I read the post 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
same here!
</TD></TR></TABLE>same here!
06-20-2004, 10:31 PM
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Re: (Blind Fashion)
If anyone is interested in a device we put together that will switch the profect b from low to high using the hondata. using the nitrous option table .
with our devce it does not require any extra silinoids. and will switch it back to low boost automaticly after the car decerlerates below the switch point.
very simple to hook up. comes with EVERYTHING needed.
with our devce it does not require any extra silinoids. and will switch it back to low boost automaticly after the car decerlerates below the switch point.
very simple to hook up. comes with EVERYTHING needed.
09-22-2004, 11:55 AM
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I've been watching this thread for a while and it just gets better and better. I've been meaning to do it for about a year now and just haven't gotten around to it. One thing I'd love to try is to install the cruise control buttons in my DX and use one of those so it looks totally stock, uses the OEM wiring (to a point), and just kicks all kinds of ***. I'll post up my findings if I go that route. 
Nice work!
Nice work!
09-22-2004, 02:38 PM
#47
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Re: The correct way to make your own Profec B switch (SPOON_BeIgHtEeNsEe)
my profec b is coming in tomorrow so im adding this to my watched topics
09-23-2004, 08:02 AM
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i can imagine it should work with the new greddy boost controllers beacuase it works exactly how the one from greddy does. Has anyone confirmed this?
And if anyone wants to hook it up to their stock cruise control wiring just PM me and I might be able to help, I have done it on a few cars so far.
And if anyone wants to hook it up to their stock cruise control wiring just PM me and I might be able to help, I have done it on a few cars so far.