QWKPHKR

Hey everyone... I just started to build my own custom turbo setup and at the same time learning everything I can about FI. I actually have a couple questions I need to ask... first off;

My car is a 95 GSR... I am swapping in a JDM B18c1 in it in about 3 weeks... my purchases so far are; (Plan on running 7-8psi (10max) Is that fine on a JDM GSR?)

38mm Tial Wastgate
Garrett t3/to4e stage 3, (wheel.57 trim. Specs are .63 exhaust and .50 intake.)

Still need;

Manifold (I wanna keep AC, Not sure what way to go???? Is DRAG good enough?)
Intercooler (Is the DRAG FMIC good enough for me???)
BOV (No idea what to get for this, any help??)
Vortech FMU (Which one do I need?? or are they all the same???)
Missing Link
Oil Feed/Oil Return
IC Piping (Is cutom piping fine?? What size should I do??)
Downpipe(Do I just buy the flange and have it made by a shop?? What Size??)

I've been trying to do as much research as possible just by reading on HT and anywhere else I can. But when you read on here a lot of things can confuse you.. since I'm building a kit I get scared about hearing boost creep, etc... so I just want you guys to help me clarify things...

So Questions besides the ones about the parts

1. Whats the compression ratio on a stock JDM GSR??? Is it safe to run 10max boost??
2. Would my 38mm WG work on a DRAG manifold?
3. Is a DRAG FMIC good enough for my 10psi MAX?
4. Is the turbo I got to big?? or to small?
5. Do I need injector's?
6. What muffler?
7. Do I need those check valves?? (like the ones that come with the DRAG kit??)
8. Where do I run all the vacumm line too??


Sorry for all the questions guys... I just needed some clarity... Like I said I did a lot of reading and searching for as much info as possible... but it's always a lot easier to ask the specific questions you have and have you guys help me out..


Again guys,

Thanks for all the help..

Peace.

quikB18B

Sounds like your on the right track. First things first I wouldn't run 10 psi with Fmu. If your goping to go with fmu/missing link setup I would run 6.5-7 psi. If you were to go with a better feul management then you could run the 10, but the fmu isn't going to cut it.

Bov, well theres hks, greddy, turbo xs, tial, blitz
The tial is the best functioning on the market right now, should run you about$200
Hks ive heard to in person one was soft, and the other one flutters
I have the greddy type S, most poeple like it, some dont. Either way it gets the job done. Turbo xs is the loudest, blitz I have no experience.

Manifold, If your looking into a cheaper log manifold then go with Revhard,maxrev, lovefab shorty. I've never liked the drag mani's, they tend to crack, and if you look at a revhard next to it, the craftsmenship is alot better. If you want to spend a little more $ on somethign better than maybe a inlinepro(cast stainless steel) so it will never crack This is what I use as do many other members. It also retains a/c

Piping, You can buy prefabbed if you don't want to mess with piping, but you can save quite a bit of $ here doing it yourself.

Pm Flamenco-T on the oil line kit, hell hook you up.

On the fmu there are different ratios, most common is 12:1, basically it adds 12 ps of fuel pressure per lb of boost. You'll also need an inline fuel pump because of the high fuel pressure, but by all means If you have the funds for better fuel managaement then I would skip the Fmu.

Turbo sizing is fine, good street turbo

Injectors if you going fmu, I would run 6-7 psi, stock injectors.

Intercooler, Drag, spearco, Precision should do you fine. All run about $350 take your pick

Hope this helps

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

Y would you take GSR motor out and put JDM GSR in? Thats a lot of efffor for only 10whp extra..

1: 10.6.1
2: yes wg should work as long as its not hks flanged.
3: yes
4: no pretty much fine
5: yes u need injectors 450cc dsm or rc engineering.
6: whatever muffler you want. depends on 2.5 or 3" piping
7: forget check valves and crap. Piece you own kit together and spend the extra cash on Hondata or AEM EMS for better engine management.

8: check out homemadeturco.com and read up on that, it tells you where everything needs to go. basically, all your turbo accessories (wastegate, blow off valve, boost controller etc..) need a vacuum source (best source is intake manifold.) you can tee off other vaccuum lines that come off the manifold or buy a vacuum distribution block from GE or McMaster Carr and tee all off there.

I installed a turbo system the say way you did, read up on it than attept, I didn't know anything before I started. It took me about 6 months to read and understand everything then a few more months to get the parts together. I started the car up about a week ago for the first time with no problems.

30psi Teg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Y would you take GSR motor out and put JDM GSR in? Thats a lot of efffor for only 10whp extra..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats exactly what I was curious to see. Unless the motor is screwed why would you do all that work?

QWKPHKR

Ya I took the motor out cause it was done... it had around 250k on it... need something anyway... thought JDM GSR would be my best bet...

I can see that it's better to go with a hondata or something like that.... but what do I exchange for this setup... I obviously get rid of the FMU, correct... and the missing link?? and the check valves???

I currently have an obd1 p72... but if I go the Hondata route... i'll need to get a p28 correct?? and obviously the hondata with Boost option... what else do I need to go with this setup??

Another thing... should I get a thicker headgasket considering I have a little bit higher compression then maybe I should... and what do you guys think of block guards.... are they worth it???

Thanks again guys,,

Peace

bluebullet

Hondata is a good choice, I believe you can use the p72 but it would need to be chipped for hondata. With hondata, no fmu, get RC 440 injectors (minimum) and an intank fuel pump such as the walbro 255lph. I agree spend the dollars up front and go with a good manifold, any bov will work fine, I prefer the Tial. Drag/precisioin IC's will work just fine for the power you will be getting. I've heard mixed reviews on block gaurds, read up and make your own decision on those, should not need one if your car is running tuned hondata. That turbo would work great.

Ri5e

How much did you buy the JDM B18C for? For that money, you would've been better off building up the current motor that you have ...

QWKPHKR

Well I haven't bought the motor yet... but was planning on going to pick it up in the next couple of weeks... I can get it for 3500cnd (complete, 2700usd)...

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

when you say your original motor is dead what happened?

You probably could rebuild and sleeve it for the same or less than buying the SIR-G motor.