aleks77

i have put 20 miles on my fresh built motor (n/a, stock injectors, stock ecu, etc), and i did a compression test and came out with 210 across the board, except #2 is at 190. Now am i checking the compression a little early? or should i be concerned already?

Also i did valve adjustment, but the valves still seem to tick a little louder than usual. Im not sure if these valves should be adjusted to same spec as the oem ones? and not sure if aftermarket valvetrain is louder than stock? here is my head specs;

* Built head (f22a6 SOHC) (92 accord)
--- Some Port and Polish
--- 3 Angle Valve Job
--- Flat Mill Decks
--- New valve seals
--- Crower Acura RSX Dual Valve Springs (custom fitted)
--- Crower Acura RSX Titanium Retainers (custom fitted)
--- Ferrea 30mm Exhaust valve, 5.46mm stem, 123.55mm OAL
--- Ferrea 33mm Intake valve, 5.48mm stem, 112.10 OAL

Thanks a lot, and im sorry if im making too many threads let me know

RC000E

Ehhhh....yes and no.

Who did the port work out of curiosity? Also, what's the static cr of the motor?

Compression test is quick and dirty, plus it still is a tad premature to worry. I'd run it, check for oil consumption, maybe do an oil filter inspection after a bit. At that point, I'd probably do a leakdown to better get an idea of what the issue may be.

Being cautious will save you in the end, so keep the investigation up, check and double check things, then go from there.

aleks77

so for the time being keep breaking it in...im using the "drive it hard" method, so its ok to do so?

the head port work? was done by M2 race systems in new jersey, the whole head was built there, here is the exact invoice, i bought the head used, had my machine shop here check it and do pressure test, they said everything is ok. Only thing im concerned about is the valvetrain seems to be louder than stock, like valves are clicking but they cant be cause i just checked them \=


$050 Pressure test 1 honda cylinder head for water jacket leaks
$225 Valve job 16 valve honda head
$050 Flat mill decks minimum to clean on 1 head
$043 Acura factory OEM Spring Cups
$100 Modify spring cups & head to fit larger spring
$032 Valve seals
$534 Acura K20A RSX Dual Valve Springs & Ti Retainers
$172 Ferrea 30mm Exhaust valve, 5.46mm stem, 123.55mm OAL
$165 Ferrea 33mm Intake valve, 5.48mm stem, 112.10 OAL

NeKe1point0

Whats been done to the block ?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aleks77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so for the time being keep breaking it in...im using the "drive it hard" method, so its ok to do so?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Id take it easy on it. Being an interference motor, and depending on how loud the valves are, you could be asking for trouble. Id suggest not going crazy YET, especially on a fresh motor with no boost.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Compression test is quick and dirty, plus it still is a tad premature to worry. I'd run it, check for oil consumption, maybe do an oil filter inspection after a bit. At that point, I'd probably do a leakdown to better get an idea of what the issue may be.

Being cautious will save you in the end, so keep the investigation up, check and double check things, then go from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Couldnt have said it better

aleks77

here is the block work:

F22 block, stock sleeves, bored to 85.5mm (0.5mm over)
* Balanced rotating assembly
* Delta 260 Camshaft
* AEM TruTime Cam Gear
* Wiseco Forged Pistons 8.8:1 CR + Rings + Pins, Custom made to work with H22 rods in my F22 block with F22 pistons
* Eagle Forged Rods (H22 H-Beam ESP)
* ARP Headstuds
* ARP Main Studs
* ACL Main and Rod bearings
* New OEM Headgasket for F22 (works with the 85.5mm bore)
* New OEM Waterpump and Timing Belt
* New OEM Crank pulley, Seals, O-rings, Gaskets, Thrust washers, Hoses, Timing belt cover, coolant pipe, etc.
* Toga High Volume Oil Pump
* AEM High Flow Fuel Rail
* Extrude Honed (extreme port and polish) f22a6 Intake Manifold + Bored out TB
* Bisimoto Intake Manifold Gasket

RC000E

Well, are you getting any oil consumption to this point? I'd probably get a mechanics listening scope and see if I could pinpoint the "tap". I'm wondering if maybe your getting some rockover noise and the piston-wall in the low compression cylinder is a little wide.

Just throwing ideas out, but basically I'd just keep looking and do periodic checks to see if the compression comes up. Keep us updated.

quicksilver1689

with 20 miles maybe the last cylinder hasnt full seated its rings and not everything sealed up, usually it happens pretty fast though,if oil pressure is good, no obvious noises indiciating anything wrong, no smoking, id say keep breaking it in. Do a retest around like 120 miles and see if the numbers fluctuate.

quicksilver1689

also i would do a leakdown test nex time, see what the condition is. Maybe the lash on #2 is off, although i maybe not be 100% correct i think that if your running a "loose" lash that you should increase vaccuum slightly? dont even know if thats true or can be measured. Just some thoughts i had.

aleks77

the car is not burning any oil, oil levels are good

maybe im adjusting the valves to the wrong spec? im adjusting them to oem honda spec, but i have a delta 260 cam, and all the aftermarket valve train....how do i find out the proper valve adjustment specs for what i have?