FourthGen

Hate to be this guy, but after countless hours of researching, I am unable to find the information I am looking for. I have an internally stock b18b I plan on boosting this summer, and while I have the motor out, would like to upgrade the clutch to one that will hold a max of 225 - 250 ft lbs of torque. I am not shooting for insane power and boost goals, just want to have a fun daily without spending the money that people with built motors with 400hp have to spend. All the threads I have searched through seem to recommend ACT, Exedy, CompetitionClutch, or Clutchmasters, and all their entry level clutches (besides OEM replacements) are around 500$. I know boosting on a budget is big no-no but is there some sort of middle ground between a 500$ (600$ CAD) clutch and an OEM replacement (useless under boost)? I don't plan on building the motor, therefore don't really want to spend money on a clutch I won't be using to its full potential.

Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks

thomass

I ran a ACT 6 puck sprung, Had at least 80 track runs and a lot of street use. My setup was a stock b18b1 making 275whp and mid 200s tq. It can be bought for like 400, I got a used ACT pressure plate and new disc ended up costing me about 180 total

K7-1Ktrevor

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Ha ha ha ha... (Just had to get out of the way, K7.. j/k)

But in all honesty, OP stop b.s'ing yourself. Stop looking at $/hp and look at this as $ for quality. You get what you pay for, and there are reasons why these companies have existed as long as they have for a reason. They base their clutches on Daiken clutch, which is what the OEM uses and makes fitment and user that much easier for you to do this once.... and only once, so you don't make subsequent threads displaying/ rant/raving about problems of said cheap clutch later.

Buy once, cry once...

Txdragon

^^ This. XTD served me well also. I will add a couple things though..
1- their throwout bearings are garbage. You will probably end up needing a replacement within the first couple hundred miles.
Solution: If you can't just get a TO bearing by itself from any local parts store, notify the seller after getting your kit that your throwout bearing was seized or some **** and you need a replacement.. They will send you another one pretty fast and you won't need to send your "busted" one back.. This keeps any potential downtime to an absolute minimum in between needing to swap a stupid TO bearing. Lol

2- These clutches have a tendency to chew up pressure plates and flywheel friction surfaces. Not all, but some. Mine did. When I removed my clutch after a year and change, my pressure plate and flywheel looked like gouged rotors. WHY this happened is a mystery; I heard somewhere that ths friction material is probably too hard. I ran my clutch almost a year before being boosted and the gouges were prominent. I saw no hot spots on the flywheel at that time, so I continued to use that clutch after boosting. 3 months down the road and 286 lbs of torque later, I started noticing clutch slippage in given circumstances. **shrug**
Solution: Unsure other than potentially needing to replace it a bit sooner than any of the bigger name units. Not a big deal considering they're 150 or less.

XTD is an ok clutch for a cheapo brand but they CAN be hit or miss. You may get one that will take some serious track abuse or you may get one that eats itself 20 miles down the road. What I will say is they offer a no questions asked 12 month warranty period. They were simple enough to deal with, responded quickly to messages, and ship fast. Worth it in my book..

turboLScrx

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I recommend going with a name brand clutch - I used Clutchmasters on my last build and am using Competition Clutch on this one. I'm a D-series guy now, but I thought even B-series Stage 3/4 clutches were $400 and less...not $500? If you do go the cheap route and want a better throwout bearing, I do know that Competition Clutch will sell you just the throwout / pilot bearing. I initially bought my clutch for a cable tranny but ended up going with a hydro tranny. For about $30 they sent me just the throwout bearing and pilot bearing, as that is all that was different between the cable and hydro kits. Give them a call.

solo227

I got my stage 5 Competetion Clutch for $360. If you search around you can find them with flywheel for low $400s...

FourthGen

How streetable is the stage 5? I thought it was kind of strange how the higher the stage sometimes was cheaper

solo227

Don't know yet the car isn't all the way together. But I noticed that as well. Just chalked it up to demand. Im sure they sell more Stage 2-3s than anything so they give a slight discount for stage 5s in the name of moving units.

K7-1Ktrevor

K7-1Ktrevor

FourthGen

So I guess I've been convinced to go with a quality clutch and do it right the first time. Not exactly a fan of squeezing my trans out of the bottom of my car cause of some potential *money savings*. Is a 6 puck sprung disc going to be overkill for an engine that will never see over 300hp? (mid 200's tq) Seems to be a lot of different opinions. One thread I read mentioned that puck clutches are mainly for racing/drag strips, while others mention you need to have a 6 or 4 puck to handle anything over 200tq. Once again, this is strictly a daily, I will not be tracking/taking it to the strip.

Can anyone give some input on this?

turboLScrx

DaX

iTrader: (1)

For streetability, I'd recommend getting the lightest clutch that makes sense for your power levels - this is going to make it easier on you to drive, and your leg will thank you. Definitely get a sprung clutch for your situation. The only downside to getting one of the lower gripping clutches is that if you get the itch to turn up the power, your clutch may start slipping. I went with a Competition Clutch Stage 4 - it's a single sprung disc, and is 6-puck. I was worried about streetability, but honestly it hasn't been that bad. It's definitely heavier than stock and engages a little quicker, but it's not the total light switch that some people suggested it would be. I wouldn't want to drive it in stop/go traffic every day, but for most driving it's fine. I'm using a hydraulic transmission - this makes a difference too, as cable transmissions have a less smooth engagement.

Txdragon

Good clutch info here

Action clutch is another good option for the cost-minded. I paid 295 shipped for mine and have not yet run it, but have read TONS of good about it. Priced like the Ebay stuff, performs like the top dollar stuff..

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

meh, I've found them to be very iffy in repeatable results..

Txdragon

Such as?

wunfstgsr

Stock clutch and send it!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

such as more than a few had bad throwout bearings, much longer breakin-times needed, loss of clutch disc springs, cracked pressure plates, etc. This is for a good number one worked with both B & D motors for locals...

Not sure what took say more about it, but ...

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Txdragon

Aside from DOA throwout bearings, about how much of the other items could be attributed to improper installation, excessive abuse on inadequate clutch, too much clutch for the application; i.e. sintered iron puck disc on mostly stock N/A street vehicle, etc? FYI, I've gotten an ACT with a DOA bearing. Lol

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

All were installed at the same two professional shops over a course of about 6 years that I was working with.

All were categorized and matched with a person based upon their specific needs. (C'mon, if I'm that specific about turbo applications, how do you think I deal with other components of a build?). These were the common issues found from many encounters with them

Txdragon

Alrighty, fair enough!

LightningTeg

My vote is ACT. I had an HD-SS (Heavy duty plate with a sport full face disk). Very easy to drive on, held over 300 ft-lbs (rated to 250ish) and went through the ringer for me while I was learning all about that Turbo Honda life