aleks77

Im down to choosing a clutch and flywheel for my turbo project, I have an LSD F22 tranny, and im gonna be shootin for over 400whp (around 420whp). Im not gonna drag race the car often, its gonna be my daily driver and mostly highway runs, i will never launch it hard from a dead stop. I was thinkin of going with a cheap ebay special XTD Stage 3 clutch and lightened flywheel, for $200 shipped! ACT clutches and other brand names run around $400 or so and $200 for a lightened flywheel.

I read a few reviews on the XTD clutches and a lot of people like them, however i havent heard a single setup with over 400whp running XTD clutch. So whats your opinion? go with the $200 clutch and flywheel combo, or spend 3 times the money and go with a brand name?

Hondaruss

I personally am running that clutch at this point i have done alot of hard launches and full throttle shifts this clutch has not skipped a beat. This clutch has been used on a 350whp LS olds great i give it the of course these are my personal experiences. other might have diffrent

GSaura

The stock flywheel will allow you to hold onto more momentum in the drivetrain when shifting, and OEM components would give me greater piece of mind than going with a really cheap product. Personally, I run an ACT streetlite and I didn't really notice any difference at all from the stocker.

SIred91

For the most part, when it comes to the auto aftermarket,

you get what you pay for. In general.

aleks77

I understand you get what you pay for, but If the ACT clutches and flywheels are made for hardcore race cars, then why waste money on products that are designed for completely different purpose then mine? If the XTD clutch/flywheel is enough for my goals, then why spend the extra cash on the stronger clutch/flywheel. I might give the XTD Stage 4 clutch a try, be a test dummy

inspyral

I personally dread having to drop the tranny to mess with the clutch and flywheel and I'd almost rather just pull the whole engine out than drop the tranny with it still in the car. I'd rather use quality parts that are known to perform and not have to worry about having to drop the tranny again a couple days/weeks/months down the road to fix something. I have no personal experiences with XTD clutches, but if others seem to be having good experiences with them, they may be worth a try. You might want to wait and see if anyone with similar HP numbers has had previous experience with an XTD clutch before taking the plunge, though. If you're not like me and you acutally enjoy dropping trannies, then the $200 price tag seems reasonable enough to be a "test dummy" as you put it.

HamiltonRex

try it and let us know how it works, oem flywheel is fine.

TIGboy

I had a stage 3 XTD on my d16z6 and it bit REAL hard the first like 2000-3000 miles then my slave cylinder started going, then I blew my motor so im assuming it would of lasted a lot longer. I go with it if your on a tight budget. I was pushing around 300whp.

wicked2night

well i talked to the seller on e-bay of the XTD clutches and it looks like i'll get the stage4 with a sprung 6puck disc. I really wanted a stage3 but i am going turbo so more can't be a bad thing. So i'd advise you to let him know you want the 6puck sprung disc since the unsprung ones aren't that streetable.

Can i just put this clutch on my flywheel? Or do i need to take it off and have it milled to be perfectly straight? It should be good though, it's a 99 and hasn't been raced.

Hondatec38

I've seen the springs come out of the center hub multiple times on that brand of clutch. It usually ends up sticking between the pressure plate and flywheel causing alot of noise and the clutch to never fully engauge.

inspyral

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wicked2night &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Can i just put this clutch on my flywheel? Or do i need to take it off and have it milled to be perfectly straight? It should be good though, it's a 99 and hasn't been raced.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's generally a good idea, and recommended to at least resurface the flywheel when installing a new clutch. A fresh clean surface and the proper step spacing(should be .100" for B series) between the mounting and friction surfaces are required for the clutch to break in properly. I'm sure there are a lot of people who have just thrown clutches on without resurfacing their flywheels, but I personally wouldn't do it. At the very least you should check the flywheel for hot spots and warpage, then measure the runout if you have the tools to do so before putting a new clutch on. You might want to upgrade to a lighter flywheel while you have the tranny off since it's a fair amount of work to access that area.

CoreyR

ive never had a flywheel resurfaced so i dont know what it costs but i always just buy brand new flywheels from autozone 51.99 D-series or 59.99 B-series. cant go wrong there and then you dont have the annoyingness of an 8lb flywheel with a hard grabbing clutch.

JDMRice

I have the XTD stage 4, no problems, been to the track a couple of times, lots of highway pulls. gets a from me.

wicked2night

the unsprung or the sprung disc? Using what flywheel?

boostincoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive never had a flywheel resurfaced so i dont know what it costs but i always just buy brand new flywheels from autozone 51.99 D-series or 59.99 B-series. cant go wrong there and then you dont have the annoyingness of an 8lb flywheel with a hard grabbing clutch. </TD></TR></TABLE>



Damn, I just spent $55 to get my ITR flywheel resurfaced.

JDMRice

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wicked2night &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the unsprung or the sprung disc? Using what flywheel?</TD></TR></TABLE>
sprung+oem(resurfac ed) flywheel

aleks77

is it better to run an oem flywheel or a lightended flywheel (8lbs, 10lbs, 12lbs) for a turbo car?

inspyral

I'm running an 8lb ACT and I like it. Most people will say to not go under 12lbs. I've had both and liked both, so /shrug

slowsol95

i had an xtd clutch it my d16 turbo del sol and it started slipping on me at the track on slicks and a few times in fourth gear pulls at around 220whp. i resurfaced the flywheel and installed it correctly. i am replacing it with an act 6 puck and i would do the same if i were you.

champLSinteg

does everyone with the stage 3 or 4 follow the break-in procedures or just run it hard after the install?

GetawayInMoscow

Run it hard after install.

You think all the people with track only cars put 500 miles on their race cars to break in their clutches?

champLSinteg

That's what I was thinking of doing becuase I always though that puck clutches did not need any break-in but I call the sales rep and he said I should break it in for at least 500 miles. I asked him what would happen if I didnt and he said the disk might go bad and the springs might pop out !

CivicVX94

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GetawayInMoscow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Run it hard after install.
You think all the people with track only cars put 500 miles on their race cars to break in their clutches?</TD></TR></TABLE>
most track only car's use unsprung clutches
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by champLSinteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's what I was thinking of doing becuase I always though that puck clutches did not need any break-in but I call the sales rep and he said I should break it in for at least 500 miles. I asked him what would happen if I didnt and he said the disk might go bad and the springs might pop out !</TD></TR></TABLE>
ya i'd probably go with that, not that i have any idea, i just prefer to go with waht manufacturers recommend