HamiltonRex

Will take a few seconds to load all 4 pics, Injector Duty Ratings at bottom of This page





Top is ign high, bottom ign low


Top is fuel low, bottom is fuel high

Setup as follows. .5bar spring.

Gsr block, CTR head, GSR cams.. with arp studs and cometic HG around ~10:1 cr
Ram horn mani, tial 38mm wg .5bar spring, 780cc injectors
Lm1 Wb02, boost and egt gauges..

Any other setup info needed just ask!

Im looking for around 300whp once tuned.

This base map wasnt made by me. If you wish to view any other parts of it, leave your email ill send you it.

Modified by HamiltonRex at 7:03 PM 12/18/2005


Modified by HamiltonRex at 7:06 PM 12/18/2005

2point2

PaulF is a cool guy

HamiltonRex

Yeah i should have closed all that

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

Pull out 3 deg from both your high cam & low cam maps until you get on the dyno.
Besides that, setup your datalogging & wideband. 2d fuel maps are your FRIEND!

Also, don't forget to sync your distributor timing to 16.5 deg at idle.

Good Luck

BlueShadow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
To me, it seems like theres too much timing, and too much fuel?

If i was to make my own basmap, i would open a P30, scale to 1.8L.. and loose a bit of timing, as it seems the P72 uses less.

Then I would use boost tools, and retard ignition timing by 0.9 deg per PSI of boost (to be safe) and adjust turbo efficency for %130.

Then in fuel mutipliers, adjust fuel injector size to 780cc.

Proplem is, im having trouble scaling the 1.8 into the 1.6 map since it uses different values. I supose i could change them all? Then copy and paste the maps over?

So anyways... Should i use that basemap, or go and make my own? Once i get it up and running, ill datalog with cromepro and a LM1, it seems real easy to make the nessecary changes with the auto programming function </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yah the high cam timing is ery very conservative. At 8K RPM's and 0.94" vacuum your timing is 25.25*, in the next cell over at 0.4psi you already have 1 degree of retard. But then in the next cell over it is retarded 0.25* (2.1psi), the next cell over (3.9psi) another 0.25* retard, then at 5.7 psi it's retarded 1*, then at 7.5psi it's retarded 2.25*, then at 9.5psi it's only retarded another 1* degree.

It sounds like you are using a version of CromePRO that doesn't support boost tools for P72 ROMs? It's not that hard to take a P30 ROM and replace all the timing numbers with the ones on the P72 ROM. For the extra RPM lines in the P30 rom you can just extrapolate the timing value on the ones you do know above and below it. It's not hard, just time consuming. If I were in your place I would also do a manual timing retard. 0.9* per psi is way to conservative. You could try something like 0-0.25* from 0-3 psi, 0.5* from 4-5 psi, 0.85* from 6-7 psi and so on. Or you can adjust ti to however many degree per psi you want.

If you want to be sure that basemap is good just start over from scratch and do your own.

HamiltonRex

Ok, i removed 3deg of timing from the whole map (both high and low)
So now every value is 3 less.


Thanks

boosted k20

the timing values in those pics looks just fine to me for a basemap. running too little timing can also be bad. i would leave it the way the pics showed. with stock internals i wouldnt push over 300whp

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

Set your idle values back to 16.5 deg after removing the 3 deg.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the timing values in those pics looks just fine to me for a basemap. running too little timing can also be bad. i would leave it the way the pics showed. with stock internals i wouldnt push over 300whp</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is no need to be running 19 deg of timing at 9 psi on a "street" tune.
Running 15-16 deg at 9 psi will be a lot safer on a "street" tune until the vehicle can be put on a dyno for controlled tuning.

HamiltonRex

Thanks everyone

Mtber I took your advice. Lowered it overall 3 deg. and changed the idle values back to 16.5

adseguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There is no need to be running 19 deg of timing at 9 psi on a "street" tune.
Running 15-16 deg at 9 psi will be a lot safer on a "street" tune until the vehicle can be put on a dyno for controlled tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know what engine this is, but seeing that stock it's running at around 25* total timing on a "basemap" I'd run 15-16 total timing for 10PSI as well. then work your way up with a tuner either on the street or dyno . Don't subract 3 degrees everywhere only the boost portion. That ignition map hurts my eyes...it's not linear in the regression and varies . The fueling is out of whack as well. Looks like it's scaled for stock injectors. The numbers shouldn't go over 800 .

BlueShadow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The fueling is out of whack as well. Looks like it's scaled for stock injectors. The numbers shouldn't go over 800 .</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it was scaled for stock injectors then it would be red instead of yellow/greenish. To be able to tell if they are scaled properly they should have been posted in duty cycle instead of the raw fuel numbers.

SOHCD16y8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't know what engine this is, but seeing that stock it's running at around 25* total timing on a "basemap" I'd run 15-16 total timing for 10PSI as well. then work your way up with a tuner either on the street or dyno . Don't subract 3 degrees everywhere only the boost portion. That ignition map hurts my eyes...it's not linear in the regression and varies . The fueling is out of whack as well. Looks like it's scaled for stock injectors. The numbers shouldn't go over 800 .</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought you had 21 degrees for 9 psi on your setup. But then again im guessing that this motor has higher compression then yours so it that why you recommend less timing. Just asking for information. Not attacking.

HamiltonRex

Gimmie 10min ill get more maps up!

HamiltonRex

There they are!

Low/Hi for Duty Ratings.. Yes this was scaled for 780's or else they would be well over 100% and Red.


Modified by HamiltonRex at 7:19 PM 12/18/2005

BlueShadow

fuel numbers look good, just double check your timing numbers underboost and vacuum. Since you have stock bore and close to stock CR, you should stick to stock timing for vacuum. Then just check your boosted timing numbers to see how much degree per psi is being retarded.

adseguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCD16y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I thought you had 21 degrees for 9 psi on your setup. But then again im guessing that this motor has higher compression then yours so it that why you recommend less timing. Just asking for information. Not attacking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had 20-21 degrees but that was NOT my basemap. That was after a street tune. I ran like that for 7k miles then I'm up to where I am now dyno tuned. Sorry about the fuel thingy. I was totally thinking Uberdata for some reason where they scale multiplier and thus adjusting the numbers ......so as long as the duty cycle is good (not red) then it's fine. GL

SOHCD16y8

My bad, for some reason I totally forgot that this was just a base and not a street tune. Thanks for answering though.

ccivic

Hmmm.. I was asking Blundar about this (he tuned my car) when I was looking at my maps. You can't trust Crome's injector duty cycle. I have values of over 100% that I'm running perfectly on

vtec'n cb7 f22

I definately need to read up on tuning !!!!