charge piping for d16 300whp ?'s
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
charge piping for d16 300whp ?'s
I'm looking to get charge piping for my 89 civic hatch and rev hard sells an intercooler kit that comes with at least some of it. I was curious, would 2.25" be big enough to flow the pressure that it would take to make 300 whp or do I need something bigger?
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: charge piping for d16 300whp ?'s (QuarterMileMaster)
I'm wondering the same thing. I have 2.25" piping all around and I wonder if that will limit the amount of hp i can make.
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: charge piping for d16 300whp ?'s (SOHC_MShue)
it's normally a good idea to use 2.5, its closer to the size of your trottle body.
will 2.25 limit your power. how much are you trying to make. if you already have your piping in place. i would leave it for 300.
if you making it now. go 2.5
platinum.
will 2.25 limit your power. how much are you trying to make. if you already have your piping in place. i would leave it for 300.
if you making it now. go 2.5
platinum.
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#8
Honda-Tech Member
Re: charge piping for d16 300whp ?'s (platinum00)
ehh actually i'm really only shooting for 220whp max, but just incase i change my mind later on and decide to build the motor
#9
Re: charge piping for d16 300whp ?'s (SOHC_MShue)
Its not the worst idea to keep the diameter transitions smooth between parts and with the the ID of an E cover being under 2" I would say use 2.25 to the IC and 2.5 to the TB. turbulance = bad
#10
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Thread Starter
Re: charge piping for d16 300whp ?'s (Bailhatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its not the worst idea to keep the diameter transitions smooth between parts and with the the ID of an E cover being under 2" I would say use 2.25 to the IC and 2.5 to the TB. turbulance = bad</TD></TR></TABLE>
what's the ID and E cover?
Anyways, great info guys, I think I'm just going to go with 2.5" all the way at least until I figure out why I'd want to use 2.25 to the IC and then go bigger from IC to TB. Is there anywhere (online) where I can get pre made 2.5" piping because I live in the Houston, TX area and there isn't anybody around here that does that kind of stuff, I don't think...
Modified by QuarterMileMaster at 6:09 PM 1/24/2005
what's the ID and E cover?
Anyways, great info guys, I think I'm just going to go with 2.5" all the way at least until I figure out why I'd want to use 2.25 to the IC and then go bigger from IC to TB. Is there anywhere (online) where I can get pre made 2.5" piping because I live in the Houston, TX area and there isn't anybody around here that does that kind of stuff, I don't think...
Modified by QuarterMileMaster at 6:09 PM 1/24/2005
#11
Re: charge piping for d16 300whp ?'s (QuarterMileMaster)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuarterMileMaster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what's the ID and E cover?
Anyways, great info guys, I think I'm just going to go with 2.5" all the way at least until I figure out why I'd want to use 2.25 to the IC and then go bigger from IC to TB.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ID = Inside Diameter
E cover, as in to4E compressor cover like 90% of H-T runs on their t3/t4s.
A reason to not jump from 1 7/8" to 2.5" is turbulence. Every time you make the air change shape abruptly it causes extra heat to be added to the charge air. that is why I suggest going with 2.25" because the Intercooler inlet is probably 2.5" and the turbo outlet is about 2 so that make gives you smaller steps and smoother air flow. On my own car this pipe is going to taper from 2" to 2.5" over the length to even further reduce turbulence.
what's the ID and E cover?
Anyways, great info guys, I think I'm just going to go with 2.5" all the way at least until I figure out why I'd want to use 2.25 to the IC and then go bigger from IC to TB.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ID = Inside Diameter
E cover, as in to4E compressor cover like 90% of H-T runs on their t3/t4s.
A reason to not jump from 1 7/8" to 2.5" is turbulence. Every time you make the air change shape abruptly it causes extra heat to be added to the charge air. that is why I suggest going with 2.25" because the Intercooler inlet is probably 2.5" and the turbo outlet is about 2 so that make gives you smaller steps and smoother air flow. On my own car this pipe is going to taper from 2" to 2.5" over the length to even further reduce turbulence.
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: charge piping for d16 300whp ?'s (Bailhatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ID = Inside Diameter
E cover, as in to4E compressor cover like 90% of H-T runs on their t3/t4s.
A reason to not jump from 1 7/8" to 2.5" is turbulence. Every time you make the air change shape abruptly it causes extra heat to be added to the charge air. that is why I suggest going with 2.25" because the Intercooler inlet is probably 2.5" and the turbo outlet is about 2 so that make gives you smaller steps and smoother air flow. On my own car this pipe is going to taper from 2" to 2.5" over the length to even further reduce turbulence.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow, that's probably the best explanation I've seen on this website yet. I had no idea about any of that (I know, big suprise, lol) thanks alot. When you say "taper" does that mean that the pipe is actually going to get wider as it extends? How hard is that to do/have done?
ID = Inside Diameter
E cover, as in to4E compressor cover like 90% of H-T runs on their t3/t4s.
A reason to not jump from 1 7/8" to 2.5" is turbulence. Every time you make the air change shape abruptly it causes extra heat to be added to the charge air. that is why I suggest going with 2.25" because the Intercooler inlet is probably 2.5" and the turbo outlet is about 2 so that make gives you smaller steps and smoother air flow. On my own car this pipe is going to taper from 2" to 2.5" over the length to even further reduce turbulence.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow, that's probably the best explanation I've seen on this website yet. I had no idea about any of that (I know, big suprise, lol) thanks alot. When you say "taper" does that mean that the pipe is actually going to get wider as it extends? How hard is that to do/have done?
#13
Re: charge piping for d16 300whp ?'s (QuarterMileMaster)
I left out a lot but im glad you got the idea. Its the same reason you want the inside of any thing that flows fluid or gas to be smooth.
yes I am going to make the pipe expand from about 1 7/8" to 2.5" over its length. that way I can use straight silicon connectors rather than reducers that make 1/4 or 1/2 inch diameter jump over only 1/2" or lenght rather than a foot or two of pipe.
There are lots of ways to do it. I'm going to use a big tapered exhaust tool to make rings that have a few 1/16th of an inch diameter change and weld them between the different sized pipes. wont be perfect but it will be better than a 2" to 2.5" reducer so im going to take the time.
yes I am going to make the pipe expand from about 1 7/8" to 2.5" over its length. that way I can use straight silicon connectors rather than reducers that make 1/4 or 1/2 inch diameter jump over only 1/2" or lenght rather than a foot or two of pipe.
There are lots of ways to do it. I'm going to use a big tapered exhaust tool to make rings that have a few 1/16th of an inch diameter change and weld them between the different sized pipes. wont be perfect but it will be better than a 2" to 2.5" reducer so im going to take the time.
#14
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Re: charge piping for d16 300whp ?'s (Bailhatch)
Burns makes tons of cone transistions. Seems a lot easier and more cost-effective just to order one of those than sectioning and welding a ton. They even have a 1.75"- 2.5" which seems to fit what you're looking for.
#17
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Thread Starter
Re: charge piping for d16 300whp ?'s (entr0py)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by entr0py »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Burns makes tons of cone transistions. Seems a lot easier and more cost-effective just to order one of those than sectioning and welding a ton. They even have a 1.75"- 2.5" which seems to fit what you're looking for. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Burns? Is that a website, person, or what? What do they look like, any pics?
Burns? Is that a website, person, or what? What do they look like, any pics?
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