shredmanant

Ok I have a good garett t3 off a z31 I would like to use instead of the cheapo ebay t3/t4 but my t3 is water and oil cooled... basically where should I run the water lines to for my t3...by the way I have a d16y7 any help would be great and Thank you in advance

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

So your current turbo is dual cooled, and the new turbo is not?

If that's correct, just plug your current coolant feed and return lines and don't worry about them.

If that's incorrect and you need to know where to run coolant lines for the new turbo, run them from the IACV.

shredmanant

I thought the iacv only had air running through them I mean it is a idle air control valve... I mean what would water be doing running through that? Btw I new to honda so any help would be greatly appreciated amd sry if I ask any noob questions and I apologize for my horrible gamer

shredmanant

no my current t3/t4 is just oil cooled and my t3 is oil and water

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Coolant runs through it so it can control the idle based off of the temperature of the coolant.

D-Rob

The IACV controls idle speed based on coolant temp (from the ECT sensor) through the PWM output at the ECU. The actual coolant running through the IACV has nothing to do with idle speed.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

most people use the lines that normally flow coolant through the throttle body... just ditch the stock lines for the tb and run the coolant feed off the head to one coolant port on the turbo and the other to the inlet fitting. (i cannot remember which one of those lines supplies coolant to the TB, just look at what they are connected to and remember how coolant flows through the motor and the tstat housing and you should figure it out no problem)

Another way people do it is to replace the front block plug with a replacement machined plug with a 6an male fitting on it... They run that line to one side of the turbo and the other line normally runs to another 6an fitting welded to the radiator endtank (you have to do this yourself or have someone you know that can TIG weld attach the fitting to the radiator)

Schister66

If the new turbo isn't water cooled, either remove the existing water lines or loop them together...ultimately, you wont need them.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

the old one isn't
the new one is

The problem with not running water on the new turbo is that the CHRA casting is almost entirely hollow except for where the oil passages and turbine shaft/bearings/seals are... It needs the water to help bleed coolant out of the chra...

Oil cooled only chra turbos have a CHRA casting that is entirely solid except for the oil passages/shaft/bearings/seals, etc.... this type of chra acts like a big heat sink, sucking heat out of the turbine side and absorbing it into the chra, this heat in turn gets absorbed by the oil passing through it.

So you must run water with the new turbo in order to properly cool the bearing system and keep the turbo healthy and in running order, without the water you could have such issues as oil coking up in the chra, premature bearing wear, premature seal failure, a seized turbine shaft, etc.

Schister66

Ahh...I read that backwards. I think your advice summed up everything I could have ever said

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Thats what i try to do...

Wantboost for FI moderator

93CX

You will have to modify your downpipe if switching from generic eBay hotside to a Garrett one. It is not a bolt on change. Just FYI

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Right. Just helps keep the throttlebody itself from getting ice crystals and freezing.