Siouxbie

Hello, I am looking to put a catch can on my B20B as part of the new turbo set up. I can't find good answers on the proper way to do it.
Are the hoses supposed to run out of the rear of the valve cover, facing rear of car? Or on the front side? I read the rear side was correct but I seem to see everyone doing it differently.
Also, do you need to remove the baffling cover that is riveted down? Again I seem to get conflicting reports on this...
I am trying to decide if I want to tackle this on my own, or try to get some professional help.
If I don't need to mess with the baffles it seems easy enough to put ports on the side of the valve cover and run the hoses. But I also want it done correctly so I am really getting the proper benefit!
I truly have tried to do a lot of searching but so many conflicting reports!! If there is a thread I missed please direct me and ill read more there. Thank you for any help you can give!

Chance EG

You can tap either side of the valve cover (front or rear). On B series (at least the VTEC heads/covers) there's an OEM baffle in place in the front which can help the lines/can from getting a tonne of oil thrown through it, but again both the front and backside can work.

No, leave the baffle cover.

Assuming you can weld the bungs into the aluminum, it's something you can do on your own. Otherwise most shops only charge like $30-$50 to weld them in for you.

Getting off forums for now but let us know if you have other questions.

2x0

Can go anywhere just make sure they are fully baffled. Some of the OEM baffles leave about 1/8" gap at the side of the cover, and if your bung is right there it will get a ton of oil pushed through. You can either fill the gap or extend the bung with a piece of tube so that the entry is above the OEM baffle.

Siouxbie

Thank you for the help I appreciate it! Just needed a little clarification and this does seem easy enough. I have a good shop close by that can weld the bungs on for me.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

There are other ways other than this weld bung idea. 2 articles have been written about it, and is in the sticky FAQs.

Tag that first before finding a welder. As usual, there's more than one way

Siouxbie

Thank you for the heads up, but when I click on the articles in the sticky it doesn't find the pages for some reason. I tried all four of the articles. It might be my work computer being dumb so i'll try and check them out again later at home.

Jaker

And the best way to greatly limit the amount of oil that gets sloshed into your fittings on the valve cover (in addition to making sure they're behind a baffle) is to weld them onto the top of the valve cover.

2x0

Is this being serious? I think that many of us might have hood clearance issues with a -10 bung and fitting sticking out the top....

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

It may not be you. Some articles got misplaced in their links when they changed servers. I'll take a look when I can to see about adjustments so you can see those.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I. Can't tell either, honestly

Jaker

The fitting does not need to be a straight fitting. They make 90 degree fittings. But then it's been a long time since I eyeballed the clearance between a B series valve cover and the bottom of a Civic hood. There'd be more room above the intake cam than the exhaust cam though.

2x0

Chance EG

I mean, I'm pretty sure what he's describing would work in practice, but it'd look ridiculous as hell and just isn't necessary as long as you have either some sort of drainback system and/or some basic baffling in front of the fittings.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's the funny part. You don't even need those damn things to make it work. Y'all watch too many IGS / IFO videos

Chance EG

You're old, it's all about them BoostedBoiz now ))

/kind of kidding

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Whichever... Like you said, at my age, it's all the same.. Clout reaching at it's finest

wunfstgsr

I like my kit I got from projectimport.com they sell a nice full bolt on complete catch can kit for the B series with no modification needed. It works great on my Supercharged Integra. My AFR is perfect now with this catch can kit there's no more oil diluting my AFR!

https://www.projectimport.com/store/...-lok-fittings/

Siouxbie

Hey thank you for the link but I am looking into the valve cover venting specifically right now. I was considering doing the block venting as well but from what I've research the valve cover seems to be more efficient but I am still learning.

Chance EG

This is ideal IMO. Two AN bungs into the valve cover to vent, then drain back into the block: GO-AUTOWORKS Catchcan Kits

Kit comes with everything needed minus the labor of welding, obviously.

Edit: Random note of caution - If you vent via the exhaust side of the engine, make sure you use steel lines and not nylon as the nylon can eventually get a hole burned in it if you're using a turbo setup that places the exhaust housing or manifold super close to the nylon. Then you're leaking oil and gas fumes/droplets onto your turbo blanket or exhaust wrap if you have it, which is a fire hazard. Ask me how I found that out...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

If you say so..

Good luck with your mission. I'm sure you'll find what's right for your needs.

Cupajoe

here you go guys

Honda Crankcase Ventilation System - Honda Tuning Magazine

Siouxbie

I still need to research a lot more for sure. But from what I've seen its not ideal to have the oil drain back because it will have some fuel mixture and is not exactly "clean" oil. Due to this I believe is it better to not have a drain back and add new oil as needed if the catch can is filling up at all.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

That will happen regardless, a drain back is good because in the end who wants to disconnect their vent lines, drain oil and then fill more up. If that was the case I would have to do that every pass. For 99% of cars I think two vent lines from the back of the valve cover to a vented canister with either 1 or two drain lines back to the back of the block is all that is needed.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I agree with this, sans the valvecover vents, which look as more as a preference vs. a "necessity".

Siouxbie

Ok, honestly I would like to avoid messing with the valve cover all together. But this seems to be the way everyone is doing it now. Do you know why the preference has changed or did people just not realize there was a benefit to the valve cover ports in the past? I feel like many in the past have actually just done ONLY the block venting. This would be much easier of course since there would be no welding and I could just remove the existing block off ports on the block and install a catch can that way.