Car's chucked oil on first start after rebuild. Is this headgasket fitting correctly?
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Car's chucked oil on first start after rebuild. Is this headgasket fitting correctly?
Hey guys,
So went to fire the car up after a rebuild, starts up and runs for around 4 seconds before it farts and chucks oil over the garage floor.
We check around, seems to be coming from just the back of the head. we used ARP studs so im thinking did we tighten them enough? but we did it to spec, also used a Cometic gasket.
I did a search on the forum and it seems the common cause is headgasket fitting the wrong way around and blocking an oil passage.
Ive been looking at a few build pics we took along the way and from the pic the headgasket looks to be blocking a passage in the top left hand corner but i cannot think how else you could get this gasket to line up.
Hope with the pics someone can tell me where we went wrong.
Thanks guys.
So went to fire the car up after a rebuild, starts up and runs for around 4 seconds before it farts and chucks oil over the garage floor.
We check around, seems to be coming from just the back of the head. we used ARP studs so im thinking did we tighten them enough? but we did it to spec, also used a Cometic gasket.
I did a search on the forum and it seems the common cause is headgasket fitting the wrong way around and blocking an oil passage.
Ive been looking at a few build pics we took along the way and from the pic the headgasket looks to be blocking a passage in the top left hand corner but i cannot think how else you could get this gasket to line up.
Hope with the pics someone can tell me where we went wrong.
Thanks guys.
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Re: Car's chucked oil on first start after rebuild. Is this headgasket fitting correctly? (Powelly)
did you remove the copper rivets
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Re: (Powelly)
i always do. .
that might be your problem.
also the gasket does look off in the top lelt corner.
might be overlaping the vtec pressure hole and the edge of the block...
that might be your problem.
also the gasket does look off in the top lelt corner.
might be overlaping the vtec pressure hole and the edge of the block...
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Thanks for the tip, will remove them when we strip it. Am hoping to re-use the headgasket if i can get it to fit better. I'm sure that it is blocking the oil passage, no other explanation really.
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Re: (.adam.)
what block are you using....ive had something before with an old jdm b16 block that had a secondary two prong oil pressure switch lookin thing that i took out and oil spewed everywhere when i started it. probably not it, but it could be something ridiculous. good luck.
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Re: (melovesboost)
can you seeing it coming out from between the block and head? i know it's a common thought, but did you make your sure the oil filter gasket isn't ripped or oil filter damaged causing the leak.
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Re: (Powelly)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Powelly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the tip, will remove them when we strip it. Am hoping to re-use the headgasket if i can get it to fit better. I'm sure that it is blocking the oil passage, no other explanation really. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I have never removed those rivets and DO NOT REUSE THE GASKET. go OEM, only remove a rivet if it for some reason will be between the sealing surfaces.
I looks like it is on right, im assuming your running a LS/VTEC?
I have never removed those rivets and DO NOT REUSE THE GASKET. go OEM, only remove a rivet if it for some reason will be between the sealing surfaces.
I looks like it is on right, im assuming your running a LS/VTEC?
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Re: (Jared)
either the passage popped the plug out, or the HG is on upside down.
Just make sure ur ARP's are bottomed put, and ive never ever removed those rivets, but im sure if the layers stay in-line, then it wouldnt make a lick of a diffrence.
Just make sure ur ARP's are bottomed put, and ive never ever removed those rivets, but im sure if the layers stay in-line, then it wouldnt make a lick of a diffrence.
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Re: (allmotorh22)
that gasket does not look like its fitting right on the oil passege to feed the head (in the picture it is by the thermostat housing)
the hole is half cover by the gasket, i can almost garuntee this is your problem
in this pic
the hole is half cover by the gasket, i can almost garuntee this is your problem
in this pic
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Thanks for the reply guys.
Ive checked everywhere and it's coming out the back of the block for sure, no leaks anywhere else. We are using the dowels too.
The engine is a jdm b16. The gasket just don't look right to me and is blocking half that oil passage. It's a cometic gasket as i wasn't too sure an oem one would hold up as it's boosted.
I wanna strip is all down now but i need to get the crank bolt tool from Honda again which is shut til tomorrow. I'm gutted!
Again thanks for checking the pics over and giving me replies, hopefully the gasket is the problem and it's an easy fix.
When you mention making sure the ARP's are bottomed out what do you mean by this? We fitted them as per the instructions, hand tight, head on then torqued down to ARP spec.
Ive checked everywhere and it's coming out the back of the block for sure, no leaks anywhere else. We are using the dowels too.
The engine is a jdm b16. The gasket just don't look right to me and is blocking half that oil passage. It's a cometic gasket as i wasn't too sure an oem one would hold up as it's boosted.
I wanna strip is all down now but i need to get the crank bolt tool from Honda again which is shut til tomorrow. I'm gutted!
Again thanks for checking the pics over and giving me replies, hopefully the gasket is the problem and it's an easy fix.
When you mention making sure the ARP's are bottomed out what do you mean by this? We fitted them as per the instructions, hand tight, head on then torqued down to ARP spec.
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Re: (Powelly)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Powelly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah same block, where was this part you removed? </TD></TR></TABLE>
the thing he is talking about is located by the alternator, if you dont have one, its most likely just an allen head plug on your engine.
the thing he is talking about is located by the alternator, if you dont have one, its most likely just an allen head plug on your engine.
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Got ya. I can't believe we never got the gasket on correctly, schoolboy error. Saying that, the gasket doesn't look like a good fit to be honest.
Am gonna grab the crank removal tool from Honda tomorrow and just order a standard gasket. We fitted the gasket facing up as you can see the writing in the pic.
Thanks again Dave
Am gonna grab the crank removal tool from Honda tomorrow and just order a standard gasket. We fitted the gasket facing up as you can see the writing in the pic.
Thanks again Dave
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Re: (Powelly)
OEm gasket should hold u just fine with the ARP torqued correctly. so go grab a new oem, lay it on there, take some pics and show us before putting on the head ruining another gasket.
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Will do! I didn't even get to rev it lol! Months building it, 4 secs running, more time stripping it. I still feel like i ain't ever gonna get to drive it!
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Re: (Powelly)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Powelly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah same block, where was this part you removed? </TD></TR></TABLE>
im not 100%, but i think it was located diagonally up and to the right of the oil filter location. just look for a hole in the back that should have something in it.
im not 100%, but i think it was located diagonally up and to the right of the oil filter location. just look for a hole in the back that should have something in it.
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Re: (philafelman)
ive used all different types of HG's w/ and w/o ARP's, and aslong as the torque sequence os right ur good.
And when i say make sure the ARP's are bottomed, i mean sometimes they get hung in the threads if u dont use lube, so just make sure they are at the bottom of there holes and not just hung up on debris or someithing inside the threads.
Ull get there, and the pay off will be great, so stay with it mang.
Make sure u have someone good tune it, and have other people check the maps to make sure they arent way off.
And when i say make sure the ARP's are bottomed, i mean sometimes they get hung in the threads if u dont use lube, so just make sure they are at the bottom of there holes and not just hung up on debris or someithing inside the threads.
Ull get there, and the pay off will be great, so stay with it mang.
Make sure u have someone good tune it, and have other people check the maps to make sure they arent way off.