Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

Specs.. crx boosted b16a /gsr tranny quaife lsd, fullrace traction bar. IF im crusing along at 50 then downshift to 3rd and step on it, my car goes straight but waves side to side. First it pulls left then switches to right and left again. It seems to be less noticable in 4th gear pulls. And 1rst and second just bake the tires so no problem there.

Also when i turn right i get a sound like an axle click, but if i drive in circles i dont get that noise. ITs only when its cold with the wheel turned maybe a half turn.

Any ideas?

nsxmatt

Sounds like a issue with the lsd almost.

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like a issue with the lsd almost.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking along those lines.

nsxmatt

What kind of fluid are you using? Do the quaife diffs require a additive?

jonvo

mine does that with an open diff. i think youre just feeling torque steer. i think alot of people have to fight to their car straight when they make a lot of power.

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of fluid are you using? Do the quaife diffs require a additive?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Syncromesh and no additives (quaife doesnt need any)

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

the left to right is torque steer.

the clicking as an axle problem

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

the alinement seems good, i need to check tire pressure. Im pretty sure the axle is fine, i drive in a circle and i cant reproduce the clicking. Yet some times it clicks, maybe ill just swap em out at autozone.

ATYPR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the left to right is torque steer.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a Kaaz LSD with the clutches stacked to be very aggressive and I still get torque steer.

BTW, are you sure you have a quaife in your trans because Kaaz and other clutch type LSDs click when turning under light acceleration.

BoostedEG6

It is torque steer

Boosted Chemist

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FUCATYPR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW, are you sure you have a quaife in your trans because Kaaz and other clutch type LSDs click when turning under light acceleration. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Its a quaife, I installed it myself

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedEG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is torque steer</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its supose to do that with the lsd?

earl

I think you need to have a wheel alignment done before anything else. Also there may be issues with your motor mounts or your swap, not sure. AutoZone axles don't help things either. Maybe tired front struts could be hurting the problem, a goofy offset wheel or even a funny worn out tire. I never heard of a Quaife making a clicking noise, so that would probably be the last thing to check.

BlakeJ53

iTrader: (1)

What size tires are you running ? The reason I ask is I had 17's on my car and when I hit boost it would do exactly what you are saying. So I put 14's on I didnt adjust my coilovers at all, I just put 14's on and it took care of the problem completely.

urbansi

yeah my coupe torque steared pretty bad with only 205ft/lbs in what there was of second and then thrid...

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

its still gonna torque steer with an lsd

Sloshy

crx suspension have a bunch of bushings they're probaly worn out chck them out.. worn bushes do make the car swerve around

Slow00si

when you installed the quaffie did you shim it to make sure its not moving side to side in the case any more than what oem specs are? and like everyone else said check shocks, bushings make sure all balljoint and tierod ends are good, tire pressure even, get it aligned etc.

Jared

I've never had a quaife do that. The alignment might "seem"fine, but you need to have it checked, it could be way out and only show up under heavy load. have you checked for loose/worn tie rods and/or ball joints?

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you need to have a wheel alignment done before anything else. Also there may be issues with your motor mounts or your swap, not sure. AutoZone axles don't help things either. Maybe tired front struts could be hurting the problem, a goofy offset wheel or even a funny worn out tire. I never heard of a Quaife making a clicking noise, so that would probably be the last thing to check. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I think when i get some new tires im going to have it alined properly and see whats up. I have a freind (dunked) running zoner axles on 500 whp getting many passes out of them, plus who can beat the lifetime warrenty included at 60 beans a pop

whiteef8

i agree with earl, when youre under hard load, the cars suspension angles change dramatically, meaning that if any one angle is off, it can multiply the effect 10 fold when under 3XX hp. I think your main concern would be caster/camber, being that the vehicle will pull to the side with more positive camber, and less positive caster, basically just get a F.E.A. I think i set of new front tires would hurt either. Good luck, and make some more videos of this monster, i wanna see how hard it is to control!! haha

Ntense90crxsi

I have a welded diff and have noticed the same problem when over 300hp. I noticed when I went to the track my caster would move up so far on a lauch with slicks it would want to rip the front bumper off. So I replaced the bushings that connect the lower control arms and the front crossmember with a poly almost plastic like material, much stiffer. It helped a little but another thing I noticed when replacing those was that the bushings in the lower control arms were shot and I could move the lower control arms easily back and forth. I believe that when you apply a good amount of power the front wheels are pulling forward unevenly causing the front end to try and drive itself under load. I think the only way to fix it is get full traction bars with a hymes joint and probably replace the lower control arm bushings to minimize front end "walk".

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ntense90crxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a welded diff and have noticed the same problem when over 300hp. I noticed when I went to the track my caster would move up so far on a lauch with slicks it would want to rip the front bumper off. So I replaced the bushings that connect the lower control arms and the front crossmember with a poly almost plastic like material, much stiffer. It helped a little but another thing I noticed when replacing those was that the bushings in the lower control arms were shot and I could move the lower control arms easily back and forth. I believe that when you apply a good amount of power the front wheels are pulling forward unevenly causing the front end to try and drive itself under load. I think the only way to fix it is get full traction bars with a hymes joint and probably replace the lower control arm bushings to minimize front end "walk".</TD></TR></TABLE>
dude i have a traction bar, and the es bushing are **** compared to stock, they **** the bed faster than oem.

Ntense90crxsi

I didn't buy brand, I cut these myself from a stick of the material the right diameter and drilled the holes. I am not even sure what it is, its just a lot harder then rubber but has just enough flex not to wear abnormally. The only thing better then this would be metal bushings, which I have considered or hymes joints.

agrn93ls

alignment seems good isnt good enough. mine did this and i just replaced my upper control arms, bushings, ball joints, axles, and struts. then did a fresh alignment and it helps some. get a 4 wheel alignment, check all front end components and retest. and i have been through many many many "autozone" type rebuilds, and they all suck. i had one that they didnt put grease in the outer joint and it locked up on the highway and stripped the splines out on the outer joint. check into axles made by a1cardone, they just started making ones from all new components and they cost me 60$ each may cost you a little more i got mine at shop cost.