adictionbass

im having kind of a weird problem with my car dieing on me. It seems to be engine temp related.

built and boosted gsr running 750 saturated injectors on aem. car was street tuned, still running rich in spots, with a very conservative ignition map.

At start up the car idles fine. I always let it warm up for a few minutes before driving then i take it out. It will drive and idles fine for the first 15 min or so, but after that, it will just die and not restart. After a highway cruise of say 20-30 min, the car will die if i let it try to idle itself, even while coasting, but then i can pop the clutch to get it running. If i come to a stop light i have to manually keep the idle around 1500 to keep the car running. If it dies it will not restart at all.

When i get the car pushed off the road, (figuring it was fouled out spark plugs the first two times) i could swap the plugs and it still wouldnt start. Swapping the plugs, pulling the ecu fuse and cranking to get any extra fuel out, nothing would get the car to start again. But if i let the car sit for about half an hour, it will start right up, run good for 3-5 min, then want to keep dieing again.

The lowest idle we could get the car to be happy at without dieing was about 1250. Two different reputable tuners have tried to get the idle down but cannot get below 1250 without the car stalling.

So far ive looked over everything i can think of: vac lines, gasket leaks, ect. Im trying to get this straightened out before i go waste alot of money at the dyno. any ideas would be a great help.

Edit: car pulls ~20" vac at idle and ~24" cruising at 3k rpms. last compression check was 175-182 across. motor has 500-600 miles

coneheadsracing

Try playing with your timing a bit in the idle area. Also, with fuel too, had a similair issue this spring, idled fine upon start, but soon as it was warm, nope. ONly way it'd start was to open the throttle body. Also, did you mess with your screw in the throttle body at all? YOu have to make sure to disconnect the connector though.

adictionbass

ive always had to go WOT to start the car. Idle timing is 16* and fuel is 4.72 (but then there is the boost compensation map so i dont know how to translate it)

what do u mean disconnect the connector?

HYBRID_H@TCH

I had an ignitor once that did the same ****..changed the dissy and the car started and ran fine..man Iam I glad I have a hall sensor now with COP.

adictionbass

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYBRID_H@TCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had an ignitor once that did the same ****..changed the dissy and the car started and ran fine..man Iam I glad I have a hall sensor now with COP.</TD></TR></TABLE>

comming next spring. but for now, id like to be able to idle

adictionbass

any other suggestions?

adictionbass

Mr.Death

I had the same prob til I changed my leaky headgasket. First I would try changing the coil in your dizzy and see if that helps. Good luck.

adictionbass

better not be the HG

anyone know how interchangeable the ignitors are? i have an LS distributor sitting at home.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

I had the same issue with my AEM EMS, You need to go into the idle maps. bring your idle up at higher coolant temps. Mine wont start hot unless i WOT too. I never figured that out but dont really care to much cause ive got it to idle nice. Mine also will nto idle beloew 1200 rpm. again not really a big issue for me because its not a daily driver. mainly a track car and when its nice weather on a weekend . Oh yeah and when its runnign and not broken HHAA

Also mine was super rich at idle. i played with that and got it to lean out to 12.5 anythign higher then that it didnt liek to idle too. All motor sare different though. I changed over to 1000's and the car idles great hot or cold but it stays pegged rich and cant get it to lean out at all. Also noticed on my decel it doesnt lean out liek it should it actually goes to 12.5 then pegs rich. I still havent figured that **** out yet

Ignitors are all the same you can swap them out no big deal
I see baltimore area, you going to be at the races next weekend ? Ill take a look at your ems if you like

adictionbass

what races? MIR? Capitol? Cecil?

but idle should be a little higher in the afrs

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what races? MIR? Capitol? Cecil?

but idle should be a little higher in the afrs </TD></TR></TABLE>

MIR Nopi show

adictionbass

**** i forgot that was next week...

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

If it doesnt start unless you floor it means it has too much crank fuel. Geez look at your Crank Injector Time table and how it corresponds to throttle.

dreadcivicturbo

check collant temp sensor, if its bad it will cause the car to keep dumping fuel when its hot.

adictionbass

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it doesnt start unless you floor it means it has too much crank fuel. Geez look at your Crank Injector Time table and how it corresponds to throttle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Crank injector time is 80 from 0-84% throttle then drops to 0 by 90% throttle. The car will start at 50% thottle. so what does this mean?

adictionbass

adictionbass

last one...

Mr.Death

Help this dude out.