vladd

before i installed my turbo everything was perfectly fine. i've been driving with the turbo for a couple months now, put about 3k miles on it since. when the weather is colder (50-60 degrees) the car starts and idles perfectly fine. when the weather goes into the 80's and 90's the car doesn't want to start. once it does, it'll idle at about 100 rpm and wants to die; i have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running. it sounds almost like a cylinder is out. this goes on for around 30-60 seconds, after which the car will start to idle normally. from there on it'll drive and idle normally until i shut the car off. i know the car runs super rich at idle, especially at startup. the tuner said that's normal for a car tuned with crome. regardless, it does start and run ok when the air temp is cold. does anybody have any idea on what the problem could be?

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

EMS? I had this problem when I started running UD. Searching led me to cleaning the IAT or IAC or whatever ... I've changed the tune several times so IDK what exactly helped but its better now ... still a little low.

vtec.dc2

this applies if your integra is obd2 and you're running obd1 computer with something like hondata.

unplug the fuel purge valve connector in the back of IM. i went further by unplugging and capping the line itself to avoid any bypass. it opens during startup adding too much fuel to the mix. try to uplug it first and see if it helps

vladd

i'm running dsm 450's with an obd1 p72 ecu tuned with crome. also running a warlboro 455 fuel pump. when the weather is colder it starts and idles ok (not perfect but good enough), however, when it gets warmer it won't start at all, or barely does and sputters.

vladd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this applies if your integra is obd2 and you're running obd1 computer with something like hondata.

unplug the fuel purge valve connector in the back of IM. i went further by unplugging and capping the line itself to avoid any bypass. it opens during startup adding too much fuel to the mix. try to uplug it first and see if it helps
</TD></TR></TABLE>

what does this fuel purge valve look like exactly? any pics? are you saying to unplug it permanently, or just in warm weather (when the problem pops up)?

vtec.dc2

should have purple label with denzo on it.. you could trace it physically to fuel evap tanks, it allows fuel vapors to enter into your IM but at the wrong time with obd2 cars running obd1 ecu. i have mine removed permanetely along with the line plugged to avoid hazzard.. (there is a drain tube underneath passanger side). try to unplug it first and see if that makes a difference on cold start

da_dude

When temp is cool it start but when it's hot it doesn't start. Sound like the main relay to me.

vladd

hm... i remember reading something about unplugging this a long time ago, i just never knew why. i'll definitely try this tomorrow. how would the air temp affect this though?

bigbadboy

or go back to your tuner and tell him to invert the purge. which should have been done if you still have all of that hooked up. on ODB2 cars you have to have it inverted or not hooked up at all. i hope that helps

vladd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turb20_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When temp is cool it start but when it's hot it doesn't start. Sound like the main relay to me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

from what i've read before a bad main relay would only affect the starting, not the idle after. when my car has trouble starting the idle will be fucked up for about a minute, after which it'll even out and start running ok. i'm guessing it's the purge valve, my car is obd2 with a obd1 conversion. it's supposed to get back into the 80's and 90's here soon, i'll see if that fixes the problem.

vladd

this is the one to unplug correct? do you need to unplug the evap canister too?

vtec.dc2

i think thats it.. you don't need to plug the line unless you still keep having problems.. i removed the connector and plugged the line that goes to canister.. it should eventually drain on passenger side.

so did it help?

vladd

i haven't driven the car since. it's supposed to be in the 80's tomorrow, which would normally make my car a bitch to start. i'll be back with the results.

crucian

I would say it's you IAT doing that. I have to adjust my IAT settings in hondata to meet the IAT readings when the air outside warms up. My car would idle real bad and my AFRs would go real lean.

JmurGSR98

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vladd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
this is the one to unplug correct? do you need to unplug the evap canister too?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My car was doing the same thing, except it was tuned with uberdata and had a 255 walbro pump. That was unplugged and it still had trouble starting in hot weather. Bought a new main relay but didn't get a chance to replace it cause it was stolen, but would still like to know if you fix it for future reference.

ATYPR

get a better EMS

you won't have this problem with hondata

JmurGSR98

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FUCATYPR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a better EMS

you won't have this problem with hondata</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you believe the problem is with crome and uberdata?

Mr.Hankey

Im going to say that something is wrong with the block or you have a leak somewhere. How is your coolant level? Any oil in the coolant? The reason i think there is a crack is because he says that there is a sound like a cylinder is out, and its hard to keep the car on when its hot, metal expanse when hot, so the crack or leak would be getting bigger when the car is running at optimal temp. But when cold it would be smaller and less likely to effect performance. I would have the block and head presure tested and check all the gaskets to rule out the leak because if it is, its just going to get worse and worse until the engine is unrepairable.

I dont think its the ems, or ecu that caused the problem because of the sounds that the engine is making. It doesnt really make sense that the ems/ecu all of the sudden went bad after him driving it and made the car start making noise as if a cylinder was out. Sounds like a physical problem, not a electrical/computer component to me.


Modified by Mr.Hankey at 6:04 PM 5/25/2007

ATYPR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JmurGSR98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So you believe the problem is with crome and uberdata?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes

Jim Truett

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JmurGSR98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So you believe the problem is with crome and uberdata?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, it's from rookie tuners that don't realize the importance of setting the post start and cranking fuel for the larger injectors. The first-row fueling needs to be set properly for a hot-start condition as well.

borat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, it's from rookie tuners that don't realize the importance of setting the post start and cranking fuel for the larger injectors. The first-row fueling needs to be set properly for a hot-start condition as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have stock injectors and fuel pump, and my car does the exact same thing. I've fooled with the IAT tables and whatnot, but nothing helps. I'm pretty sure it's some weird incompatibility with crome and UD running on OBD2 cars. When I plug my stock ECU back in, everything runs fine, so I know it's not the FITV or IACV or anything like that.

SovXietday

Post fuel and ECT Crank Fuel Compensation needs to be adjusted.

vladd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Hankey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im going to say that something is wrong with the block or you have a leak somewhere. How is your coolant level? Any oil in the coolant? The reason i think there is a crack is because he says that there is a sound like a cylinder is out, and its hard to keep the car on when its hot, metal expanse when hot, so the crack or leak would be getting bigger when the car is running at optimal temp. But when cold it would be smaller and less likely to effect performance. I would have the block and head presure tested and check all the gaskets to rule out the leak because if it is, its just going to get worse and worse until the engine is unrepairable.

I dont think its the ems, or ecu that caused the problem because of the sounds that the engine is making. It doesnt really make sense that the ems/ecu all of the sudden went bad after him driving it and made the car start making noise as if a cylinder was out. Sounds like a physical problem, not a electrical/computer component to me.


Modified by Mr.Hankey at 6:04 PM 5/25/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

nothing is wrong with the engine. it ran 100% perfect before installing the turbo. its only hard to keep the car running for the first 30-60 seconds, as i've already said several times. after that the car runs perfect, no matter how hard i beat on it. coolant and oil looks perfectly fine.

well, so far so good. it's not very hot today, high is in the high 70's. the real test wil be when the temp gets into the 90's, since before i could barely start it.

SovXietday

You're not listening are you.

Get a hold of a burner and a laptop, pull your chip out, open your .bin in crome and go to advanced tables option.

Go into ECT cranking fuel compensation, log how warm the engine coolant is when you're trying to start it (hotter on hot days) and decrease the value until the car starts with no issues. If this doesn't work.

Post fuel compensation, do the same thing, adjust the values until the car starts and runs correctly.

vladd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SovXietday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're not listening are you.

Get a hold of a burner and a laptop, pull your chip out, open your .bin in crome and go to advanced tables option.

Go into ECT cranking fuel compensation, log how warm the engine coolant is when you're trying to start it (hotter on hot days) and decrease the value until the car starts with no issues. If this doesn't work.

Post fuel compensation, do the same thing, adjust the values until the car starts and runs correctly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm listening, however, if unplugging that evap solenoid solves my problem then i'm satisfied. i don't have a burner, i had someone tune it for me. i'm not gonna waste the tuner's time unless i need to.