Cap & Rotor maintence for boosted cars.
#1
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Cap & Rotor maintence for boosted cars.
My car is a 99 Si and has abotu 39,XXX miles on it, recently turbo'd for the last two months. Just wondering, if it is time to change my cap and rotor.
If so, what is the best one's to buy? OEM???
how hard is it to install a cap and rotor? I have basic hand tools, and mediocre mechanical expericence. (installed own intake, header, exhaust, plugs/wires, suspension, smalll stuff... I didn't actually do my own turbo, my friends did it, but ... I watch them do it while eating a lot of pizza.)
Anybody have a good walkthrough on how to change your own cap and rotor? Anything I should be AWARE of so I don't do something wrong **** myself?
If so, what is the best one's to buy? OEM???
how hard is it to install a cap and rotor? I have basic hand tools, and mediocre mechanical expericence. (installed own intake, header, exhaust, plugs/wires, suspension, smalll stuff... I didn't actually do my own turbo, my friends did it, but ... I watch them do it while eating a lot of pizza.)
Anybody have a good walkthrough on how to change your own cap and rotor? Anything I should be AWARE of so I don't do something wrong **** myself?
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Re: (MotorMatrix.com)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMatrix.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep, if boosted get an msd cap and a 6al with a blaster atleast. the car will run cleaner for sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What's a blaster coil?? What does that do?
What's a blaster coil?? What does that do?
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Re: (intekragsr)
im having misfires in all 4 cylinders.
im running stock ignition but with NGK copper plugs.
-any one have this problem also?
-is it because im running too rich and too less of a spark that is causing this misfires?
im running stock ignition but with NGK copper plugs.
-any one have this problem also?
-is it because im running too rich and too less of a spark that is causing this misfires?
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Re: (intekragsr)
about 4 months ago i had work done to my head. replaced an exhaust valve in cylinder 1.
could the work done on my car been bad and causing my cylinders to misfire?
along with the misfires, i have bad primary o2 sensor readings(says its reacting slow)
check engine light says my cat is not doing well either.(bought it used)
could the work done on my car been bad and causing my cylinders to misfire?
along with the misfires, i have bad primary o2 sensor readings(says its reacting slow)
check engine light says my cat is not doing well either.(bought it used)
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Re: (Phoenix GSR)
If I get my cap and rotor done, I don't need to get my car retuned or anything do I? I don't know if it throws my map off or anything.
#11
Re: (Snafu-Si)
Stick with OEM cap and rotor. If you arent blowing out the flame under boost pressure in the cylinder, the stock will work just fine.
A loose guide line for replace ignition parts. Spark plugs: 5,000 miles. Rotor, Caps, Plugs: 15,000 miles.
A loose guide line for replace ignition parts. Spark plugs: 5,000 miles. Rotor, Caps, Plugs: 15,000 miles.
#13
Re: (BoostinGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostinGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im having misfires in all 4 cylinders.
im running stock ignition but with NGK copper plugs.
-any one have this problem also?
-is it because im running too rich and too less of a spark that is causing this misfires? </TD></TR></TABLE>
You're getting misfires because you're running too rich. Stock ignition systems are good unless you're pushing over 300 to the wheels.
im running stock ignition but with NGK copper plugs.
-any one have this problem also?
-is it because im running too rich and too less of a spark that is causing this misfires? </TD></TR></TABLE>
You're getting misfires because you're running too rich. Stock ignition systems are good unless you're pushing over 300 to the wheels.
#14
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Re: (boosted hybrid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stick with OEM cap and rotor. If you arent blowing out the flame under boost pressure in the cylinder, the stock will work just fine.
A loose guide line for replace ignition parts. Spark plugs: 5,000 miles. Rotor, Caps, Plugs: 15,000 miles. </TD></TR></TABLE>
definitely a loose guideline I get about 300-500 miles on my plugs. Which means taking the car out no more than 3-5 times and they would foul.
A loose guide line for replace ignition parts. Spark plugs: 5,000 miles. Rotor, Caps, Plugs: 15,000 miles. </TD></TR></TABLE>
definitely a loose guideline I get about 300-500 miles on my plugs. Which means taking the car out no more than 3-5 times and they would foul.
#15
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Re: (MotorMatrix.com)
where can I pick up an OEM cap and rotor for my car? Is Checker Auto parts okay? If I'm running a greddy kit on my SOHC with less than 10 lbs. of boost, should I be okay with OEM wires and NGK plugs? Or will aftermarket wires make a difference worth the money in my boosted application?
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Re: (fnananon)
The honda wires are good and rarely go bad, and to get oem cap and rotor go to HONDA! I once bought a cap and rotor from auto zone, I ended up spending $300 to find a problem I started to get, put on my old cap and rotor, and it my car was good to go. If you dont get a msd, get honda!
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Re: (SiRkid)
I have some Prestolite OEM-comparable plug wires that are 30k old. What should I replace them with (OEM-comparable) and what should I expect to pay?
#19
Re: (fnananon)
im running an msd 6al w/blaster ss. Recently i replaced the cap/rotor trying to trouble shoot an intermitent stalling problem. It ended up not being the cap or rotor, but when i looked at the old car some of the plastic was melted where it seemed to come in contact with the cap. Might be from the msd id think. Just some food for thought.
#20
Re: (MordecaiPSI)
I've had problems in the past with Blaster SS coils. The fist one went bad so I switched to the red canister type. Then that one went so I switched over to the black canister one. The black one is epoxy filled so my guess what that viabration was killing my other coils. However, I've also had problems with my old 6AL BTM. Sometimes you would floor it and it would just die... ended up being a blown cap inside. MSD fixed it for free. Since I had so many problems with all that **** when I went standalone I switched back to stock ignition and things run like factory.
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